|
Friction Shifting on the Trails
I'm fed up with constantly tweaking my indexing and still having it not work smoothly half of the time. Does anyone manufacture mtb specific friction shifters? If not, can anyone recommend a good vintage variety (8-speed)? Thanks.
|
Sounds like nothing but adjustment needed. You shouldn't need to be constantly adjusting the drivetrain to get it working correctly. You don't state what components you have now, but parktool.com is a good source for advice on repair and maintenance is you are doing it yourself. If the bike is new, you will have some cable stretch at first (they all do), and adjustment is just part of the routine. Don't know of anyone making mtb friction shifters-but once the adjustments are set up correctly, you wouldn't need them.
|
I second the Parktool idea. They have a very helpful Bicycle repair book which should be of great help.
|
|
i have had a suntour XC Pro front friction shifter for my rear derailleur (kick-shift for the front) for the last 4 years or so and i love it for trials (it sits on top of the bar and i don't whack my knee on it). now that i'm doing more trail riding, i'm going to actually get a front derailleur and use it to switch between my 32/20, and run a 17T SS rear wheel.
friction works pretty well, but if you want something that you won't have to fiddle with on the trail, friction is definitely NOT the way to go. i like it, but then, i'm somewhat of a retro grouch/masochist. learn to adjust your derailleurs properly. |
Originally Posted by FrankJohns
Each drivetrain has its own nuances. So every index shifter has a little bit of friction personality to it. You have to learn that some gear changes require 1 and 1/8 or 1 and 1/4 of a shift at the lever.
|
Rivendell still have SunRace friction levers.
http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/shift...urs/17097.html |
Originally Posted by FrankJohns
This is from Park Tools. I mean...it's a cable pulling a spring...
"Modern indexing shift levers use dwell, which is a hesitation between movements in the lever. These hesitations are timed to match the movements of the derailleur and the spacing in the rear sprockets. The design of some derailleur and shift lever brands requires more of a push (or twist) of the lever to complete the shift. The amount of extra push or twist is not consistent between manufacturers and each rider must learn the particular attributes of his or her system." right, but one click should always equal one shift. you shouldn't have to overshift in the rear at any point. the front is always going to have a little discrepancy between when the shifter clicks and when the chain actually shifts. but the rear, if properly adjusted, regardless of which system you're using, should shift right on the click. and it should be consistent across the full range of the shifter within the same system. not 1 click here, then 1 1/4 click there, then 1 1/8 click in another place...a properly adjusted rear derailleur will shift at the same point in blah blah blah blah..... |
Originally Posted by OneTinSloth
right, but one click should always equal one shift. you shouldn't have to overshift in the rear at any point. the front is always going to have a little discrepancy between when the shifter clicks and when the chain actually shifts. but the rear, if properly adjusted, regardless of which system you're using, should shift right on the click. and it should be consistent across the full range of the shifter within the same system. not 1 click here, then 1 1/4 click there, then 1 1/8 click in another place...a properly adjusted rear derailleur will shift at the same point in blah blah blah blah.....
|
You're right. Sorry.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:31 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.