dminor 

Finally got my new Syncros CG mounted on the ASX - - after a couple false starts. First, I found out I needed a different bottom bracket, as my 73x113 was not long enough (duh!). Got an FSA Platinum Pro DH 73x123 E-type. Even at that, clearances were real snug (not a lot of room on the ASX with the pivot right there).

Then, after some trim-and-fit, dismount, trim-and-fit, etc. got it all lashed up. It's a very adjustable guide, but I had to have most of the adjustments run in all the way anyway. Can't wait to get it out on a couple shakedowns. Son's coming home next weekend, so we'll get to hit Silver Mountain together! Can't wait for that.

This also gave me an excuse to post a couple extra picts of my rig in its latest form. New this year: Syncros prototype chain guide; Syncros alloy Mental pedals; prototype 07 RST R1 7" fork; Mammoth rims; FSA DH chainring; Maxxis High Roller 2.5s

FF 6800

awesome, thats a sick bike you've got there

EJ123

I want the Maxxis sticker

Maelstrom 

Holy freaking tight chain, I don't think I have ever seen a tensioner rise up that much. looks purdy though

dminor 

Thanks! Position would not have been my first choice. I had it all planned to use standard ISCG postitioning (had the e.thirteen installation instructiions for reference), but the pivot was right smack in the way . Had to rotate it forward to clear. That was with the full length of new SRAM chain too. Might have to add some links?

Maelstrom 

Looks almost too big. Might have to use a couple of extras. I was just shocked haha...can you dremel the guide at all to make it fit a bit better. I had to do quite a bit of work on my drs to make it fit the transition.

btw...I totally missed the bike, holy hawt...

dminor 

Not sure what I can do differently yet. I'm going to take it out tonight on my DH trail on the 'back forty' at home and see how it behaves. If it works alright I'll leave it alone for now. Here's a couple more picts of the install in progress so you can see the tight confines. The carbon fiber part is the backing plate; then the alloy block behind is the backer for the adjustable slider. The backing plate is almost flush with the pivot.

There is a 128mm version of the Platinum Pro DH BB, but I think I'm pushing the chainline to its limits as it is with standard rear hub spacing. Must be time to think about a Gran Mal . . .

cryptid01

dminor, you need to figure out how to get that thing rotated counterclockwise somehow. I don't see how it's doing anything to help chain retention as presently configured. In fact, I suspect you'll lose the chain off the top of the ring and destroy the upper guide in the process.

Is there no way to move the upper guide below the swingarm, i.e. right under the 661 sticker?

Like Mael says, the dremel is your friend.

dminor 

Not sure; that might be a possibility. I was afraid it might be rotated too far back in that cavity behind the pivot. The swingarm is going to lift the top of the chain quite a bit as it cycles thru its travel and I was concerned that it would contact the upper slider too soon and start dragging on it too much if it was rotated back too far. Also, I'm afraid the lower idler may not be doing much takeup at all. I'll have to look at it again tonight with a more critical eye.

'Sweet spot' for perfect ISCG-standard placement was a few degrees clockwise of dead-center on the pivot (figures ). I may have to figure out a more compact backing for the slider adjuster so it can rotate back. Dremeling won't be enough on the stock backer. Thanks for the comments guys.

dminor 

Addendum: I was looking at the e.thirteen install guide again and they put the slider about at the 12 o'clock position. I think I may have to lose all those nicely-machined swiss watch pieces behind the upper slider and fabricate a low-profile backer so it can rotate in front of my pivot.

Ahh well, that's what prototypes are all about, huh?

mx_599

are those magnesium or aluminum pedals? i thought you got the ss ones?

dminor 

They're the aluminum ones. I love the SS and the mags, but they were over my head even at my pricing .

I ordered the Chromoly set first, but when they came the were the cast-pin rather than replaceable-pin ones. They say they make both, but the only part no. available is the cast-pin ones.

BTW those pins are gnarly (shin guards a must). Those pedals hold my feet better than any other platform I've ever run.

cryptid01

I will be interested to hear the opinion of the designer of that prototype chainguide regarding your current install.

If you are concerned that chaingrowth might be a factor, why not just unbolt your shock and see?

mx_599

yes, i have the ss one. let me know if you ever have a durability issue with the Al ones. i doubt you will. they are a lot lighter i believe. i wonder if i should have just got them. oh well, i don't think i will ever ever break mine. not as much as i ride anyway

your workstand is pretty sweet too!

killer forks too! looks like you stole them off my CR 80...except these are probably plusher. what is the weight on them?

dminor 

Gastro - Been having an e-mail 'conversation' this morning with the guy in Vancouver in charge of development and we've been going over it. Since the CF 'boomerang' just clears the pivot, I think I can come up with a more low-profile backer to the slider's adjuster (thin plate with a couple of SS carriage bolts?) that might clear. Then I could rotate it to proper position. I sent him 16 picts of detailing the installation and was thanked for how thoroughly I documented it. Thanks to you and Mael for helping me rethink this.

MX_599 - Yeah your SSs ought to be able to break rocks and go huntin' for more.

I actually got the idea for the stand from an ebay seller (only mine's better, IMO ). I used an offcut of Trex decking board for the jaws - easy to cut on the table saw and non-marring. I already had the Pony clamps, so it was just the cost of the pipe and flange.

Weight on the R1 is a claimed 6.17 lbs. And that's with 36mm stanchions. So far I'm very pleased with the performance.

mx_599

i think you should rework your front brake hose on your bike and thread it exactly as a motocross bike. it would be trick.

one idea i had would be to thread hose thru stiff pastic sheath on upper part with heat shrink tubing at each end.

then rig up a cable guide on your number plate. infact you can probably use the mx ones that screw in made by places like acerbis.

finally, affix it somehow (probably zip tie...maybe with some rubber to keep from slipping) to the upper part of the lowers and route to the inside of leg as well. [have the stiff plastic sheath stop at about the point of zip tie]

dminor 

Those are some good ideas. I have a naturally-warped leaning toward moto solutions to things anyway. Need a set of bark-busters too for shootin' the trees at Silver Mtn. Ah heck, why don't I just fix my IT-175 and DH with it?

I actually think we should have assigned numbers by NORBA so that we can run permanent number plates. It would make more sense for DHing than those goofy paper plates.

mx_599

mx_599

mx_599

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/cat...ookie%5Ftest=1

https://www.teel.com/

mx_599

and then next time you have forks out of triple clamps slide a large o-ring over stanchion for measuring travel instead of a zip tie.

Defiance

That's the first time I've ever seen mech discs on a DH/FR bike...