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How easy is it to build a sub 30lb full suspension bike?

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Old 09-21-06, 11:36 AM
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How easy is it to build a sub 30lb full suspension bike?

I currently ride a 25 lb. hardtail, but as age and rocks catch up with me, I'm leaning towards getting a full suspension rig, primarily for XC riding. Sure I go downhill, but my riding is up and down, sideways and sometimes upside down. Anyhow my hardtail is showing its age so I'm thinking of building up a full suspension bike. In looking at some bikes specs I'm surprised at how many of them are + 30lbs. I understand the reasoning for some of them, but for me I'm in favor of something a little less weighty. And I haven't been following mt. bike technology for several years - things sure have changed.

Anyhow, I can buy a used 2006 Jamis Dakar XC Comp from someone, it includes a headset and the Fox Float R rear. I'm thinking of buying it and building it up, but am curious regarding how difficult/expensive it would be to keep the weight down. I'm not sure of the frame weight, I think is is a little over 6lbs.

I'm not into spending a ton of money just to shave ounces, I'd probably be looking at LX or XT type of components. So I guess my question is - what could I expect the weight of a finished bike be using this level of components? I know, it all depends - any guesses on ranges?

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 09-21-06, 12:10 PM
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I would guess, based on frame weight, the an XT level build with a mid level all mountain style wheelset and tires would put you would put you at about 31 pounds. The same build with xc style wheels and tires probably just under 30 pounds. I don't think it would be too expensive to build it up at 27-28 pounds if you just make some smart component choices.
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Old 09-21-06, 01:36 PM
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My Rift Zone comes in at 32lb with full XT components, a Brooks B-17 saddle, 120mm Marzocchi MX Pro fork and XM317/XT wheels with thorn resistant tubes and slime. I could easily get it below 30lb with a lightweight saddle, fork and standard tubes (or tubeless).
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Old 09-21-06, 05:39 PM
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Sub 30 pounds is pretty easy as long as you go with some 500ish gram tires and a decent wheelset. Other than that just keep an eye on the crankset and bottom bracket. The final thing that is very cheap is some foam grips, you lose 1/4 pound by just doing that. Oh, cassette helps as well, that is the only component I recomend Shimano over SRAM for.

Now if you want to go sub 22 pounds for a dually I can help you with that as well, just not quite as cheap.
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Old 09-21-06, 07:18 PM
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Wouldn't it be cheaper just to buy a new or used Specialized Stumpjumper dually? I know it would not be as much fun as a build, but it would meet your requirements.
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Old 09-22-06, 08:22 AM
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Thanks for the reply guys. Sub 22 - now that would be cool. Though I won't be going there this time around.

A built Stumpy is a possibility, but I'm thinking that I'd like to build something. I'm in no huge hurry so I'll be keeping my eyes open....
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Old 09-22-06, 09:22 AM
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both bikes are <30lb

my Id is an XT, Vanilla, Romic, Mavic 717, Hayes build at 26.5 lb, my wife's Blur is a bit heavier at 29 lb with Deore, talas float fork and float R shock, Hayes, etc.
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Old 09-22-06, 12:37 PM
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It's just as easy to build a 22 lb bike as it is a 32 lb bike. It just costs a whole lot more! ha,ha.

30 lbs is not unrealistic. I feel the biggest area of attention are the wheels. Not only in static weight, but in rotational weight. a 30 lb bike with lighter wheels and tires will feel lighter than a 28 lb bike with heavier ones.

Forks can be another area to focus on.
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Old 09-24-06, 06:20 PM
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well its easy-but its also expensive, but not terrible IF you get a good frame. You should also make sure that you are getting a quality frame that hasn't been abused or anything. Its probably not realistic thinking that you could achieve 25 lbs without dropping a load of cash on things. You should also think about if you aged body would rather have a light bike or a comfortable one? its not a rule or anything but if you go superlight your stuff tends to be less durable and more finicky.
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Old 09-25-06, 03:52 AM
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hey LowCel, my Anthem will weight at 12.6kg, any Idea on how to make it below 12kg?
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Old 09-25-06, 04:57 AM
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Easy, wheelset and tires.
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Old 09-25-06, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by zephyer15
You should also think about if you aged body would rather have a light bike or a comfortable one? its not a rule or anything but if you go superlight your stuff tends to be less durable and more finicky.
why not go for both?
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Old 09-25-06, 03:20 PM
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recommendation for tyres and wheelsets?
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Old 09-25-06, 03:33 PM
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It's plenty easy with $5000. Just go to the bike shop, say "I want a lgihtweight full-suspension MTB, my budget is $5000." Let them pick a bike for you, give them your dredit card, and take your bike home.
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Old 09-25-06, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wheelhot
recommendation for tyres and wheelsets?
American Classic hubs, Stan's Olympic rim's, ti spokes. For tires that depends on where you ride. Kenda Karma DTC's are great if it's not too technical and / or muddy. Keep in mind that wheelset is not an "all-mountain" wheelset. It is pretty much a race day only wheelset. To top it off go with Stan's sealant and Stan's aluminum rotors. Then if terrain will allow go with a dura ace cassette.
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Old 09-25-06, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LowCel
American Classic hubs, Stan's Olympic rim's, ti spokes. For tires that depends on where you ride. Kenda Karma DTC's are great if it's not too technical and / or muddy. Keep in mind that wheelset is not an "all-mountain" wheelset. It is pretty much a race day only wheelset. To top it off go with Stan's sealant and Stan's aluminum rotors. Then if terrain will allow go with a dura ace cassette.
lol, now tell how much that would all cost
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Old 09-25-06, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Roxter
lol, now tell how much that would all cost
He didn't give me a price range.
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Old 09-25-06, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LowCel
He didn't give me a price range.

Well..........thats really easy. If Lowcel talking about it it super light and mucho dinero.
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Old 09-26-06, 03:00 AM
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well that would costs alot, any idea for erm a cheap alternative?
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Old 09-26-06, 04:49 AM
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Yeah, American classic wheelset. I'm very happy with mine.
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Old 09-26-06, 09:58 AM
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well I called my dealer and I found out why my Giant Anthem 2 hasnt arrive yet, it seems the shop owner at Singapore went to Interbike so I wont get my bike this week, she says next week or next 2 more weeks, lets hope no more delays. Well it seems I wont be able to change my components because my bike IS in Asia now, well in Singapore so I cant make anymore changes, bummer. Well it will come with a LX Fd, XT rd, Sram Casette, Truvative Stylo Team cranks, RS Tora/Recon, WTB Saddle, thats all I know, the cranks i upgrade already original is RF Ride ISIS, well thanks
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Old 09-26-06, 03:56 PM
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I've got a ('04 or '05, not sure which) Specialized Stumpjumper FSR with American classic disk wheels, mostly X.0 (grip shifters), Hayes FHX-9 Carbon braekes, and a manitou minute 2:00. It weighs just a tad over 26 lbs. Great bike, and it remains comfy and pretty much problem-free even with the beating southern AZ gives it.

I bought it used and changed some stuff out. When I got it, it had a SID, which just wasn't enough travel, and rim brakes, which wouldn't work with the wheels that I got a great deal on. Also, I swapped out the flat bar for a riser and put a new stem on. It did weight under 25 lbs that way, tho.

New, it would have been wayyy out of my price range, tho.
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Old 09-26-06, 08:11 PM
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You can spend $5000 to get a bike that weighs 22 pounds, or about 10 pounds less than you "average" high-end mountain bike.

OR

You can stay away from McDonald's for a few months and you will drop 20 pounds for free, and have extra cash to show for it.


I never understood it...people will drop THOUSANDS of dollars on lightweight components without even realizing the heaviest part of the bike is sitting on top of the saddle. It's much easier (and cheaper) to drop a few of your OWN pounds to lighten the load than it is to swap out your seat post/handlbars/spokes/headset with those made from CF or Ti.
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Old 09-26-06, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashVector
You can spend $5000 to get a bike that weighs 22 pounds, or about 10 pounds less than you "average" high-end mountain bike.

OR

You can stay away from McDonald's for a few months and you will drop 20 pounds for free, and have extra cash to show for it.


I never understood it...people will drop THOUSANDS of dollars on lightweight components without even realizing the heaviest part of the bike is sitting on top of the saddle. It's much easier (and cheaper) to drop a few of your OWN pounds to lighten the load than it is to swap out your seat post/handlbars/spokes/headset with those made from CF or Ti.
No matter how much weight you lose, winging around a lighter bike is easier. Im sorry, but losing 10lb of fat doesnt equal 10lb off the bike. Its apples and orangutangs. I do NOT disagree that losing weight is a great idea, but who even said the guy is fat?
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Old 09-26-06, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashVector
You can spend $5000 to get a bike that weighs 22 pounds, or about 10 pounds less than you "average" high-end mountain bike.

OR

You can stay away from McDonald's for a few months and you will drop 20 pounds for free, and have extra cash to show for it.


I never understood it...people will drop THOUSANDS of dollars on lightweight components without even realizing the heaviest part of the bike is sitting on top of the saddle. It's much easier (and cheaper) to drop a few of your OWN pounds to lighten the load than it is to swap out your seat post/handlbars/spokes/headset with those made from CF or Ti.
What about those people that have lost 50 plus pounds and "want" a lightweight bike? Do you see a problem with that as well? Oh, for what it's worth November will make me two years without eating any fast food. I have gone five years without caffeine and almost six years without a cigarette. Personally, I believe that if I want to ride a light bike I d@mn well deserve it, especially if I am the one paying for it.
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