Blackburnqc

Hi , am wondering if the Avid Juicy seven would be worth it as first disc brake , i would put them on my rocky mountain flow.

Thanks for any answer

KayGee

I got the Juicy 7 about 2 months ago and I really like them. I have had no problems with them so far and the braking power is fantastic, though on MTBR.com people complain about them making a lot of noise. I think that may have to do with whether the brakes were properly installed. I had a LBS install it so it turned out okay. Of course, I had V-Brakes before that so I don't have much to compare it to unfortunately.

Blackburnqc

Thanks for the info .

Curtis_Elwood

At $130 a side, definitely. https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/12963-115_AVDJ73-0-Search--/Avid-Juicy-7-Disc-Brake---160mm-'06.htm

Blackburnqc

O cool ! lol , but how do i choose for the # of mm i need because there like 160mm-175mm etc

MattP.

Brakes usually come in 6" (160mm), 7" (180 or 185mm) and 8" (203mm) rotors. Which one do you need? How hard do you ride? For the flow I would go 160 front and rear, maybe 185 in the front.

Curtis_Elwood

I'm not the best person to answer that, but looks like your bike is more of a urban/DJ rig. Guess it depends on how you use it. Typically, a 160mm rotor is for cross-country, 185 is for freeride, and 203 is for DH. For you, it would be between the 160 and 185. If you're light or don't need massive stopping power, the 160 should be fine. If you want more power, go with the 185. A 185 up front and 160 in the rear wouldn't be a bad set up.

born2bahick

I own sevens but would go with the fives from now on! the speed dial lever to me isn't worth the extra cash

Blackburnqc

Thanks for all the replies

mx_599

it's worth it for sure. whether it's someone's 1st, 2nd, 3rd...

(i would go with Juicy 5's for simplicity as well.)

jimx200

My new hardtail (Iron Horse Warrior Expert) came with Avid 5's. I was a hard core believer of V brakes, however, these Avids are the bomb...as in they STOP. These are mechanical and modulation and "feel" is great. Hey, they stop my 215lbs quickly on a big downhill, I'm sold on them. You might even save some money by going with the 5's. Good luck and let us know what you find.

mikejo

I'm building up a bike and going with disc brakes for the first time.
The weight diff. is only 8 grams between the sevens and fives so that is a moot point.
Is the speed dial lever worth an extra $50? What advantages does this dial have and how often do you have to use it? And if you do not have it on the fives, what do you have to do instead? I have no idea what this dial does but everyone seems to be getting sevens and not fives.
The new fives have the new rotor so the basic question is--- are the sevens worth $50?

scrublover

Juicy-5 setup, front 185mm rotor, rear 160mm rotor. Great power and modulation, easy to setup and use, a little less stuff to go wrong with. Saves a bit of cash over the 7 model, unless that isn't a factor, or you just have to have the extra adjustment of the 7. I've tried both, and they both can be set up to work very well.

wheelhot

I own a juicy 3 with the new rotor, so far its doing fine but I dont know this, whenever the bike is in a default position and I tilt the wheel abit I can hear a screeching sound. Dont know why. Anyone one of the reason you should own a Juicy is because of its Tri-Alignment Caliper, It works and so far I have no problem of the discs and pad rubbing each other. Oh yeah almost forget, can anyone tell me the different between Juicy 5 and 3's? 3 looks like past years juicy 5. Juicy 7 has extra features that might be usefull, see the website and determine if its usefull for you spending the extra money.

born2bahick

It's not worth it to me,I've never used it other than to see what it did. It's an on the fly type "pad" adjustment witch actually adjust's lever position. this can be accomplished with a 2mm allen key when the bike is stopped, on either the five's or seven's. So to me it's not worth the extra cash. If weight were the issue I would recommend Magura marta's, The Avids aren't that light when you put them on the scale!

The Great Stonk

if your going to get juicy's MAKE SURE THEY'RE 2007 MODELS

youll get the new design rotors that solve all previous juddering/noisey/turkey gobbling problems.

also - the 07 models are cheaper then 06 models (at full retail price) and they are better brakes

wheelhot

I have a 07 Juicy 3 with the new rotor but I face a problem, when ever I do a full stop on the rear brake there is a loud metal screeching, I think this is not normal

MattP.

Wait for your pads to break in.

The Great Stonk

are we talking normal occasional disc brake squeel, or are we takling metal on metal grinding?

check the rotor surface for scoar marks, if the brakes are new, you may just bneed to let things bed in, if the brakes are not new, the way the pad springs work is two fold, when your pads are low and need replacing, their is a tiny little hook/flange at the end of the spring that begins to touch the disc when the brakes are applied which makes a little metalic noise when the brakes are applied letting you know its new pad time.

free_pizza

most likely wheelhots problem is that when he is cornering there is some flex in the wheel causing the rotor to move ever so slightly and hit the pads. (his first problem that is)

achc

It depends on how much you can find it at. Personally, I like Juicy 7 more then Hayes HFX. I got Avid Juicy 7 for $90 CAD ($83 USD?) brand new. At that price, i think its worth it.

mikejo

How often does one need to adjust the lever's position and why would someone want to do that on the trail?
The pads automatically adjust for wear, right? So the dial is not for that?

wheelhot

oh I see, thanks guys

KayGee

I think it's for when you want to apply more or less pressure on the brake lever to get the same result. For example, when I'm going downhill, I tend to apply more pressure on the levers just because of momentum so I make the front brake lever more "squishy" so it's not as responsive (so I don't endo).

The problem I've had with my Juicy 7s is that when you make the lever more squishy, it's harder to brake with one finger with the front brake because the lever hits my middle finger on the handle, which is annoying. The lever on the left is closer to the handle bard than the lever on the right and I'm not sure why. Does anyone know?

born2bahick

Ok, Stay with me now! The on the fly pad adjustment, changes the relationship between the lever and the piston in the master cylinder. You can "set" the point of contact. In other words, you can decide how far in you want to pull the lever before the pads make contact to the rotor. maybe you like instant braking effect the second you start to pull on the lever, or maybe you like your lever to almost pull back to the bar before any braking effect occurs. this way you can always have the lever feathered in with one finger. now on the five's or seven's you can change the lever position in or out by using a 2 mm allen key. Yes the pads adjust atomatically for wear. As for why someone would want to do that on the trail, I'm sure there would be a use for it to someone, But I'm drawing a blank as to my use for it. It's nice bling factor, And the brakes themselves are worth way more than the price you talking about. It's the price difference between the Fives and the seven's that I was addressing, as not being worth it to me! I love the brakes, just wouldn't pay extra for the Bling factor again. Notwithstanding manufacturers claims, It wouldn't surprise me to see the five's slightly lighter on the scale than the seven's because of this adjustment. OK Ive rambled on long enough. Hope this helps.