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$17 MTB frame, shipped

Old 05-01-07, 05:50 PM
  #1  
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$17 MTB frame, shipped

I just ordered this frame this morning. I figure that for less than $20, I can't go wrong.



Proof that it cost less than $17:



I spent most of the rest of the day looking at parts for it, and have come to the realization that a $17 frame doesn't necessarily equate to an inexpensive bike.

The funny thing about the frame is that they're selling it on eBay with a starting bid of $9.99 plus $30.99 shipping, or Buy It Now at $19.99 plus $30.99 shipping.
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Old 05-01-07, 05:55 PM
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that's actually really, really cool.

i hope the top image logo is a sticker
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Old 05-01-07, 09:04 PM
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Wow. Good find, even if it sucks really bad.. its only $17 shipped.
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Old 05-01-07, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by monogodo
I just ordered this frame this morning. I figure that for less than $20, I can't go wrong.
I spent most of the rest of the day looking at parts for it, and have come to the realization that a $17 frame doesn't necessarily equate to an inexpensive bike.
I had the same rude awakening when I started building up my 1991 Nishiki Ariel. A mechanic gave me some good advice, find a garage sale donor bike. I saved a ton by buying some other bikes, stripping what I need/want and selling the frames and parts I didn't want. In one instance, I'm building a second bike to resell and cut my costs. Buying straight out new parts is great if you've got deeeeeep pockets.
Hope this helps.
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Old 05-01-07, 10:38 PM
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I already have the following:
  • a set of Deore LX 8-speed hubs laced to Mavic 221 rims (with tires)
  • a Tioga Prestige handlebar
  • DiaCompe brake levers
  • SRAM X-Ray Gripshift
  • a pair of OURY grips
  • Deore LX RD & top-pull FD (in the correct clamp diameter)
  • 600 Ultegra 170mm double cranks (yeah, I know they're road cranks, but they're paid for)
  • bottom bracket (unless the Shimano one I've got works, but I doubt it)

That means all I'd need is a fork, brakes, seatpost, stem, seat, cables & pedals.

Since I'm wanting to get the Catamount repainted, I'm considering moving the parts from it to the new frame while it gets repainted.

And from the looks of the dropouts, I'm thinking I might be able to go SS with it. By utilizing some existing parts, I should be able to get it running fairly cheap.

And I've also considered hitting a few pawn shops in the area to look for hidden treasures that can be stripped/recycled.

But I'm not in a hurry.

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Old 05-01-07, 10:47 PM
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your call, but by the looks of the welds on that bike, catastrophic failure is right around the corner.
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Old 05-01-07, 10:59 PM
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Except for the non-looped stays, it reminds me very much of the old Yeti Ulimate:



Good snag, monogodo. ediscount bike is an interesting company. They get a lot of closeout OEM stock from diverse sources. They've had some incredible buys on K2 frames. Wish I'd snagged a raw aluminum cruiser frame when they were blowing them out for about $25 a few years ago.
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Old 05-01-07, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dminor
Except for the non-looped stays, it reminds me very much of the old Yeti Ulimate:
Which reminds me of the nishiki alien:

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Old 05-01-07, 11:22 PM
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I learned how to ride a bike on a hot pink Nishiki Alien with jelly bean stickers and 24" wheels...
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Old 05-01-07, 11:41 PM
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hmm, i learned to ride a bike on this

hott stuff ain't it.
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Old 05-02-07, 06:59 AM
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Nice find for sure. As a bonus, it looks cool!


... Brad
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Old 05-02-07, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
your call, but by the looks of the welds on that bike, catastrophic failure is right around the corner.
Based on the pic, the welds look no different than the welds on my Catamount, which has lasted 10 years and is still going strong.
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Old 05-02-07, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by dminor
Good snag, monogodo. ediscount bike is an interesting company. They get a lot of closeout OEM stock from diverse sources. They've had some incredible buys on K2 frames. Wish I'd snagged a raw aluminum cruiser frame when they were blowing them out for about $25 a few years ago.
That reminds me, it's even coming with a free K2 baseball cap.
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Old 05-02-07, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by wethepeople
I learned how to ride a bike on a hot pink Nishiki Alien with jelly bean stickers and 24" wheels...
I learned to ride on one of these
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Old 05-02-07, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
I learned to ride on one of these
Hey, that was my second bike! (minus the mutli speeds). Columbia Playboy . . . even had a 'dual-crown' fork, which was cool but made it heavy for popping wheelies. My first bike was a 24" JC Higgins.
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Old 05-02-07, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dminor
Hey, that was my second bike! (minus the mutli speeds). Columbia Playboy . . . even had a 'dual-crown' fork, which was cool but made it heavy for popping wheelies. My first bike was a 24" JC Higgins.
Playbike Mine was the single speed with the regular fork. I still have it back at the parentals. It needs a good restoration job, but it's all there.
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Old 05-02-07, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
Playbike Mine was the single speed with the regular fork. I still have it back at the parentals. It needs a good restoration job, but it's all there.
Playboy was the little-bit-earlier predecessor to the Playbike (as you pictured). Oh boy do I remember that - - my friends gave me no end of razzing for that. Maybe part of why Columbia changed the name. And the fuggly sissy bar that wasn't cool like the Schwinns:

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Old 05-02-07, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dminor
Playboy was the little-bit-earlier predecessor to the Playbike. Oh boy do I remember that - - my friends gave me no end of razzing for that. Maybe part of why Columbia changed the name. And the fuggly sissy bar that wasn't cool like the Schwinns:

Ahh. I suppose a few moms got together and bit˘hed about it. Imagine riding that puppy during the 1980's BMX boom think you got crap? Mines still got knobbies and a BMX bar on it. (Yes we kept the ape hangers)
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Old 05-02-07, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
Ahh. I suppose a few moms got together and bit˘hed about it. Imagine riding that puppy during the 1980's BMX boom think you got crap? Mines still got knobbies and a BMX bar on it. (Yes we kept the ape hangers)
Haha. I rode mine to my after-school job at the motorcycle shop in high school. By then the ape-hangers were gone; I bought a pair of MC handlebar perches, bolted them to the top crown and put a (MC) motocross bar on (there wasn't much BMX gear yet).
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Old 05-02-07, 05:46 PM
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Shipping is only $7 for a bike frame? No way. I bet you its an error.
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Old 05-02-07, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ki1022
Shipping is only $7 for a bike frame? No way. I bet you its an error.
They're sending it via JoeBob's Discount Deliverance and Packages. "Where our prices will make you squeal like a pig"
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Old 05-02-07, 05:58 PM
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after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees u know what welds are good and bad.

cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.

the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.

basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
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Old 05-02-07, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees you know what welds are good and bad.

cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.

the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 pieces it is holding together. this shows that the heat penetrated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when you get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and you are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if your bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.

basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, you probably would be better off building yourself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
Nothing can make an otherwise intelligent post look like it was done by a 13 year old on a cell phone than skipping a couple of letters. You can do better.
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Old 05-02-07, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees u know what welds are good and bad.

cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.

the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.

basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
LOL, funniest post ever. All this from a picture.
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Old 05-02-07, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees u know what welds are good and bad.

cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.

the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.

basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
All this and no mention of porosity or anything
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