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Help me fix my chainrings.

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Help me fix my chainrings.

Old 06-03-07, 10:23 PM
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Hyper
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Help me fix my chainrings.

I have a specialized epic whose middle chainring (the 32 tooth one) has become unable to hold a chain on uphills. If I apply full force of my foot the chain skips and falls off one of the teeth. The particular tooth is sanded down to an lump, not a pointy chain eating grabber.

So, my plan is to replace the 32 tooth ring. How would I go about doing that? What do I need to look for? Can I just get any 4 arm 32 tooth ring? Whats a good price?

I have Truvativ Firex SL cranks running 22-32-44 tooth rings ...

Thanks
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Old 06-03-07, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Hyper
I have a specialized epic whose middle chainring (the 32 tooth one) has become unable to hold a chain on uphills. If I apply full force of my foot the chain skips and falls off one of the teeth. The particular tooth is sanded down to an lump, not a pointy chain eating grabber.

So, my plan is to replace the 32 tooth ring. How would I go about doing that? What do I need to look for? Can I just get any 4 arm 32 tooth ring? Whats a good price?

I have Truvativ Firex SL cranks running 22-32-44 tooth rings ...

Thanks
You'll need to know what the bolt ring circle is for the chainring in millimeters. Yours is probably 104mm. To change the chainring, you'll need to loosen the chainring bolts which have two pieces...a front (which takes as 4mm allen wrench) and a back (which has a slot for a very large screw driver). Put your finger on the back and loosen the bolt with the allen wrench. If you are lucky, the back will stay in place while the front turns. Remove the nuts and back, twist the chainring slightly so that it come off the spider and slide the outer ring off. Do the same with the middle ring. Reverse to put the chainrings back on. Pretty simple really.

You may have problems with the inner ring if it interferes with the smallest chainring. If that happens you might have to remove the crank arm. The other problem you might have is with getting the backs of the chainring bolts to hold still while you tighten them If they won't hold still, use a large bladed screw driver to hold them in place or use a putty knife. Make sure they are tight.

Chainrings run $20 to $40 each.
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Old 06-03-07, 11:39 PM
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Ok, so its a simple procedure.

I have the park tool for removing cranks, so I should be good. Hopefully the chain can rest on the front deraileur.

I'm thinking about getting the following from jensonusa.com: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/prod...Chainring.aspx

the 32 ring looks just like the one that is screwed up on my bike.


should I just assume that switching the 32 tooth ring will have no problems on my chain ... and switching gears?
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Old 06-04-07, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Hyper
Ok, so its a simple procedure.

I have the park tool for removing cranks, so I should be good. Hopefully the chain can rest on the front deraileur.

I'm thinking about getting the following from jensonusa.com: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/prod...Chainring.aspx

the 32 ring looks just like the one that is screwed up on my bike.


should I just assume that switching the 32 tooth ring will have no problems on my chain ... and switching gears?
I'd try to do it without removing the crank first. Often you can get lucky. Chainrings aren't nearly as sensitive to chain wear as cassettes are. It shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 06-04-07, 08:54 AM
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sounds good, will post after the surgery
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Old 06-04-07, 08:59 AM
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don't forget to replace the chain too! a worn out chain will ruin your new chainrings again.
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Old 06-04-07, 09:23 AM
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First ...

Have you recently replaced either the chain, cassette or both? If you haven't, they you probably need to replace all three items.

Keep any new items, replace any old ones. If you have an old chain, it will run it's enlongated pitch into whatever component you put in there. If your cassette is worn into an elongated pitch, it will not work right either.

As for the ring itself ... there is a stupid rumor circulating amongst the lemmings that CNC'd aluminum rings are "better". True they are lighter. I could build bicycle frame out of pasta and it would be "lighter" it would not be a superior frame. Chains and cassettes are one of those "high load" zones. You need strong metal there.

Aluminum is a TERRIBLE material for middle chainrings. They wear EXTREMELY fast. This probably suits the purveyors of these lousy rings as you have to buy yet another overpriced piece of CNC'd garbarge even sooner. It probably suits them also because they don't have to purchase 20,000 ton hydraulic presses to make chainrings right.

Try a cheapo forged Shimano steel ring if you can find one. The weight weenies will shutter in revulsion. After all, their butter rings are much lighter. But if you'd like to keep your chainring from wearing to the quickly, it's best to use COLD FORGED STEEL!!! Unfortunately, most of the people reading here buy the butter rings and hence good COLD FORGED STEEL chainrings are difficult to find.

Good luck.
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Old 06-04-07, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by bobsaget
don't forget to replace the chain too! a worn out chain will ruin your new chainrings again.

It has a brand new SRAM chain with about 17 miles on it. I inspected the chain yesterday, and it seems in good shape.
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Old 06-05-07, 10:44 AM
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Chainrings

I have a Shimano Ultegra Chainring/deraillers/Ultegra cog and chain on my 2003 Raleigh Comp.

I initially liked the value of the bike. Several months ago, I upgraded to Fulcrum 5 Evolution wheels. At that time I also installed a Ultegra 9 speed cassette. (and a new chain). At this point, I had approx 3000 miles on the wheels, when I upgraded the wheels/drive components.

I got the bike back, but the bike was skipping when the chain was on the middle front ring. After examining the middle chain ring, I replaced it ($34.00 - ugh!)

This only after 3000 miles! What the heck!?

For my next go-around, I'm wondering if I can put on more durable components (such as Campy Chorus or Record or SRAM or Dura-Ace) (I also realize that I would have to pretty much replace all the components related to the drive train, but I'll eat the cost of a grouppo if it means significantly improved wear-and-tear).

Any advice? I don't mind a couple extra ounces if it's a fair trade (wt v. durability)

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-06-07, 11:14 PM
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Hyper
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hmmm
i performed the operation today

- 44 tooth ring
+ race face bash guard
- old 32 tooth ring
+ new 32 tooth ring

I rode for about 35 minutes while the sun was still out, and the bike is great. Having that little space that the bashguard gives is perfect for ol' log jumping. hopefully the 32 ring will go for another 3 years
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Old 06-07-07, 11:22 AM
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Good job. Sounds like a great conversion
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Old 06-09-07, 08:23 AM
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Here is how it looks ....



The race face bash guard is a bit thick, I wasn't expecting that.

I also got my N-Gear, hopefully I'll install it later today..
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Old 06-09-07, 10:15 AM
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Did it make much of a difference that the bashguard only has 40 teeth on it instead of the stock 44?

Also, it seems like there is a heck of a gap now between the bashguard and the front derailleur. Does that matter?
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Old 06-09-07, 01:33 PM
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It did not make much of a difference as the bashguard is 34 tooth equivalent as the ring by it is 32 so there is about 2cm between the chain and the end of the guard.

it is nicer having an extra inch or so of clearance when going over rocks and logs

there is a gap, but im not going to mess with it as the derailleur is about to be taken out
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