pwyll99

It looks to me like Avid redisigned their mechanical disk brake line for 2008. So the BB7's can be found most places for $50.

I have BB7's on my hardtail and I've very pleased with their performance. Much better then rim brakes. Installation is very easy, no need to go to a shop and have them do it. Another plus is you can use your current brake levers.

But, I also have Juicy 5's on my dualie and they are way better than the BB7's.

Avid makes good brakes, you won't regret going with the BB7's.

NitroPye

Thanks all for the input. Learned a lot about disc brakes thru the replies.

Okay, got the whole brakes situation worked out. Next up! Wheel set!

mx_599

he had poor mechanical skills, most likely.

mx_599

+1

i didn't see this until after i just posted above.

glad we're on the same page


mx

mtnbiker66

Would I like a nice pair of Hydros? Yes but as long as my BB7s are working fine I'll stick with those.

mx_599

what's your question?

Al.canoe

So --- you are a bad mechanic on BB5's and a good mechanic on hydraulics?

I don't know how good a mechanic I am on BB7's since my wife's and mine have never needed work in over 6 years. Pop in pads and turn the little red wheels is all.

Al

Runtnick

So you haven't changed the cables and housing (let alone lubed the cables) on your bike, or your wife's bike, in six years?

mcoine

Incorrect.


Yes, and that's still more than the hydraulics have needed.

mx_599

mcoine

yes!.. it bleeds brakes for you!

Al.canoe

How can that be incorrect? I was just applying your logic that if one has a mechanical problem, he must be a bad mehanic (or even better; suffering "delusional paranoia" according to gastro).

With that kind of insight, I had to apply it to your situation.

And exactly how many years have been "not working" on your hydraulics? How many miles do you do a year? I knocked off about 1400 miles in '07 (I keep a record); mostly single track. Ranges from sandy to muddy, from rolling to very steep, long and rough descents.

Al

mcoine

When did I say I had a mechanical problem? The fact that mechanical disc brakes need continuous adjustment has nothing to do with my mechanical abilities, which are more than adequate.

I don't have a lot of miles on these brakes, and I don't record my mileage anyway. I'm curious though, if I rode 1400 miles this year (not a big feat really), what do you think is going to happen to my brakes to cause all this "bleeding and stuck pads"?

Al.canoe

Continuous? Where did you get that idea? If your BB5's need that much adjustment, the disc run-out may be way too high. Suggest you check the Park site, and learn how to true a disc. They sell a nice tool for that too.

Nobody in this thread claimed 1400 miles a big feat. I was just trying to get the dialog above the inuendo level with some specifics to help those who might be actually trying to learn about disc brakes. Since you seem to have to resort to insulting those who have problems with their hydraulics or favor BB7's, I suspect 1400 miles might be a big feat for you.

Al

mcoine

Your lack of mechanical understanding continues to shine through.

So people that "resort to insulting" will obviously have trouble riding 1400 miles a year? Good reasoning skills!


You still haven't answered the question.. what do you think is going to happen to my brakes to cause all this "bleeding and stuck pads"?

BearSquirrel

Turning dials is easier than bleeding brakes. And ... you don't have to buy a bleed kit.

However, I would cite cost as the #1 reason. BB7s can be had for $50 per caliper online.

dminor 

Al.canoe

On the bleeding I would suppose that those who use DOT 3 and DOT 4 are urged to bleed periodically as they are hygroscopic. I know my Volvo required every two years, and my F150 and CRV are every three years. Dot 5 users should probably bleed more often. Though it is not hygroscopic, it can collect high concentrations of moisture that will corrode things like calipers. A friend of mine found that out the hard way on a long/fast motorcycle trip down to Tampa when his front brake calipers froze solid in the middle of the night.

For the mineral oil types (DOT-2?), I don't know about moisture absorption, but it's likely an issue as well. Also, some bike discs have a problem with air getting into the system. Some from just turning the bike upside down. Why that is I don't know, but it happens to some. That requires bleeding to rectify.

Then there are the really unlucky ones who have a hydraulic line ripped off by brush. Nothing like a good solid cable. That requires bleeding and riding with no brake for a while.

On the frozen pads, I would assume it's due either to internal or external moisture and corrosion. The BB7 would only be susceptible to the external moisture. I bath mine periodically with stream crossings. One is about 30 feet across at higher water levels. Of course, I am aware that this "not a big feat". But, never have frozen a pad in 6-years. That's a good feat.

Again, how long have you been "not maintaining" your hydraulics and how many miles do you ride in a year and what are the conditions? My wife and I have 12 person-years experience with BB7's. My daughter and son-in-law have about 4.

Al

mx_599

Al.canoe,

why are you bitter towards hydraulic brakes?

did you have a bad experience years ago? if you never tried them, you should.

...or, try them again for the first time.

they're great!

mx

NitroPye

I still remember seeing I think it was the Volvo sponsored Cannondale from the mid 90s being the first bike I saw with disc brakes. I remember going "why the hell would anyone want those... those will never catch on". I think it was also 9 speed too, again "why wouldn't you want MORE gears". I now ride fixed more often than geared.

Times change

mx_599

nah, i think it is just a fad.

Al.canoe

Bitter? I have no/zero problems with hydraulics for other people. Remember, my first post was to advise reading the owner reviews before being talked into hydraulics. Information is key, not over-stated endorsements about hydraulics and disparaging remarks about those who favor mechanicals.

I've only ridden hydraulics a few minutes (Hays) and was not impressed compared to my BB7's. I choose to stay with BB7's because they work better for me. Besides, I hate bleeding brakes and do enough of that on my cars/trucks.

Hydraulics are not for some of my acquaintances who owned them and switched. That gives additional credibility to the owner reviews who report the same problems.

Performance for cross sountry is about the same. I can put myself over the bars with one finger and I have great modulation. Properly set-up BB7's with properly set up Avid levers with the right leverage adjustment can do that as can hydraulics.

And, as I stated before, BB7's weigh the same as Juicy 7's as I checked recently. I checked out Juicy 7's as I'm impressed with the bleeder kit and they would be the only ones I would consider if I were to ever change. On the other hand, I like the weight on some of the expensive Maguars (sp?).

Besides, I spend enough extra time keeping my Stan's NoTubes conversion of my tube-type tires in good working order. Most folks would not put up with that hassle and I wouldn't blame them. But, for me, the benefits are so high, especially with a set of Stan's wheels (eliminates the rim strip for a 75 gram saving at each rim), that it doesn't bother me at all.

Different strokes for different folks is what it is.

Al

Runtnick

If you don't know, why are you supposing? BTW, you are wrong.

Which has nothing to do with service intervals of mountain bike disc brakes. Automotive brakes are subject not only to more use, but more abuse than a mountain bike. Also, manufacturer's requirements are worse-case scenarios, often liability driven.

My SUV thing, despite numerous pad changes, hasn't ever had the brakes bled. The fluid is just fine. Go figure.

Furthermore, water uptake in brake fluid is a concern because under extreme heat the water will boil, causing brake performance to suffer. In my experience (yes, al.canoe, experience! <---key word), the wet boiling point of 5.1 is high enough that I have never boiled fluid, even after extended fast downhills that blued the rotors and caused them to turn liquid water into steam.

My brakes use DOT 5.1 (different than DOT 5) and the manufacturer recommends bleeding them every four years. Now, for someone who claims that you haven't had to replace or maintain your brake cables (on two bikes!) in six years, that might sound like a burden but for normal folks (who replace shifting cables sometimes a few times a year) four years is no big deal.

Al, your ignorance is shining through once again. I am glad that you persist though, because your posts are very funny.

What you are attempting to comment upon is what can happen to a open hydraulic brake system when the bike is left upside down for a period of time. The brakes do not need to be bled to rectify the situation. They just need to be pumped a few times.

If you hit brush hard enough to rip a hydraulic line off, you're going to toast a mechanical cable. The "broken hose" phobia cracks me up. In either case, mechanical failure or hose failure, you still have another brake. What's the big deal? It's like worrying about what you would do if you lost one of your grips ona ride...

Thanks for your post al.canoe. You have an amazing ability to be uninformed/misinformed on such a wide variety of mountain biking topics and it makes for great reading.

Cheers!

p.s. If you truly believed that "Information is key" then you would not post so much misinformation.

NitroPye

They are brakes.

Runtnick

Yes, they are brakes.