CdCf

Ok, so I've pretty much decided to finally build myself an MTB, and I'm trying to keep the cost down so I've gone for pretty simple stuff mostly. The part weights are a mix of my own weighings, that of others and a few are just the reported weights from the manufacturer. Two items have reported weights that differ greatly between different sources, so I've gone with the highest in those cases. Should the lightest be the true weights, subtract ~230 g from the final weight.

This is intended as a fairly simple XC bike. It will not see big jumps or particularly rough riding. Mostly uncomplicated trails and such. I like climbing and I'm not that fond of riding fast downhill. Both to keep weight and cost down, I've decided to go with a rigid fork to begin with. If I decide I want a suspension fork, I can always upgrade later, but for now I can't afford a suspension fork of the level of quality I want.



Total cost is just under US$1600 (using the current exchange rate).

born2bahick

Solid build and great finished weight. If you would send it to me for a test ride I could give you some real trail observations on it!

dminor 

Nice tubes.

CdCf

Bit heavy, eh?

delay

Personally I am not a big fan of the dual control levers. SRAM x9 can be had cheap. as can SD 7 levers.

CdCf

I will look into the matter!

CdCf

Done. Shaved 150-200 g off the weight, and made it a bit easier on the bank account as well! Thanks!

delay

Just to make sure, remember if you are using the SRAM triggers you need to use a SRAM rear derailleur. Shimano uses 1:2 cable ratio, SRAM uses 1:1. Some may argue that pulling more cable is better in muddy conditions, honestly they are both good products. The x9 rd would be the xt equivalent, and the high end x0 can be had a bit cheaper than XTR. The next step down x7 is a good product and a bit better than shimano's LX line I think.

The reason I prefer separate triggers and brake levers is that 1. it gives you far more options, 2. I have a number of times broken levers, or triggers in crashes. I was glad I could replace them individually.

CdCf

I know, but I picked a set of LX shifters instead.

And good points!

Found lighter tubes now too, so that's another 100 g off!

Updated list:

CdCf

Found better tyres and calculated how much the steerer tube would be cut (given the head tube length and headset stack height, and stem stack height) and adjusted weight accordingly.



Down to 11.10 kg at this point.

This is fun!

dminor 

Now you've gone and done it. There are a lot of tubes out there, I'm sure, lighter than the Welterweights; but you had a good trade-off there between weight and flat protection. I can no longer assure your safety; the whole bike may blow up on you now.

CdCf

Well, in that case, I might just as well get a CF frame and get it over with!

dminor 

That would classify you as a terrorist for having a pipe-bomb. Everyone knows that CF is just a couple altered molecules away from spontaneous combustion.

CdCf

Oh dear!

M_S

I didn't really compare geometries of the two, but maybe try a Kona Project 2 fork instead of the Surly? It's supposedly just under 2 pounds for the 26" version, as compared to 2 pounds and change for the 1 X 1 fork, and I've heard they ride nice. Also, I happen to think that the straight blade Kona looks better. Also, a quick search online found the Project 2 for about 60 bucks. Not bad.

CdCf

I need to use parts that are available at either of the two places I order my parts (ordering from a third would probably end up costing me more, due to a third shipping charge). The Kona fork is not available there anyway, and I prefer a curved fork, considering it's a rigid one. Besides, those 60 bucks would be a good deal more here, due to VAT and such...

Hmm, I just checked and found that the Kona fork supposedly weighs in at ~1040 g, which is pretty much the same as the Surly fork at ~1060 g (uncut steerer).

kramnnim

Not sure how the prices compare, but would a higher end cassette be worth the weight savings? I just weighed the SRAM 970 I have sitting around, and it's...around 400 grams...an XT cassette with the alloy carrier is around 350 grams...?

troie

What frame is that?

cryptid01

Ditch the unnecessarily large front rotor and save some more weight.

CdCf

Nope, I want the large rotor both for safety reasons and wear time reasons.

The cassette is now an 11-32 instead. Supposed to be a good deal lighter. Acceptable trade-off!

Funny... I just reviewed my last build - for my road bike from about a year ago. I took the column of reported weights for all parts and then the column of actual weights (weighed by me) and most parts were very close. The total weight for the entire build was only off by 20 g, and 20 g less even, than the reported weights.

CdCf

German noname frame. As far as I know, it's a frame that's sold under several brand names. I've only read good things about it, but there's not a lot of info out there. But the price can't be beat! The equivalent of US$279 for the frame is amazingly cheap over here!

I've picked a signal yellow colour for the frame! "RAL 1016" is the colour code.

rankin116

What safety advantage do you get having a 203mm rotor up front compared to a 160mm?

CdCf

Less wheel ejection force at the dropouts for the same braking force.

cryptid01

haha

And now, more from the irrational fear department...

rankin116

Wheel ejection force? I don't know what that means. Anyway, why not a 203mm on the rear then as well?