the1amradio

Well, went on a ride today and broke my chain... This is the third chain I have broken in two weeks. The original chain broke when I was just pedaling on flat ground and shifted from 3:4 to 3:5. Second chain failed at the quick link when a LBS put it on and (i think) messed up the cable tension. It was clicking for a bit as though a stiff link was going through the derailleur, and I backpedaled a couple rotations then took half a revolution forward and it snapped at the quick link. The link just disappeared, nothing else was messed up. I got another (better) LBS to adjust it with a new link and it was fine for ~40 miles of trails. I took it out today and halfway through a climb, second pedal stroke out of the saddle, the chain binded some how and the next thing I knew, my balls were getting acquainted with my top tube. The LBS replaced the chain for free. This chain just bent itself apart on an outer link. I think that the link which broke might have been the stiff link from earlier that they worked out in the shop. Why am I breaking so many chains? I don't mash the pedals, and I definitely ease off when I'm shifting, not shifting when I'm going up hill, etc. Is it just unlucky or are there reasonable things for me to change about my riding that will prevent this from happening?

kill.cactus

When you go from 3:4 to 3:5, are you cross-chaining?

Even so, chains shouldn't break like that. How much do you weigh? It seems like you are trying to go light on them.

Also: what kind of chains are you using? If you're using the "generic" nashbar chains then try something made by Shimano or SRAM to see if there is a difference (there isn't for me except with some shifting)

probable556

1. You might be very unlucky.
2. You might weigh 400+ lbs
3. There might be some issues with your chain rings and cassette- does everything look OK?

the1amradio

First chain two chains were generic Shimano chains, both somewhere in the $18-$20 range. Newest chain is a SRAM 890 for about $35. It was notably smoother and crisper shifting on my chainrings than my other ones. I weigh probably 230 with a backpack and heavy riding shoes on, I shouldn't think that would be an issue?!

M_S

It's possible that the rear derailleur is maladjusted or possibly bent and the chains are hanging up on the rear cogs or chains, causing them to eventually seperate. However the fact that the first one broke at the master link suggests that it was improperly installed.

the1amradio

Yeah, that was my guess... the LBS i took it to for that chain is more about making money than helping cyclists, IMO. They won't help out in a pinch unless you pay (costs nearly as much to buy a new tool as it does to borrow their from their "community workshop" type thing) And won't let you see what they're doing in their shop to your bike. The other shop I went to did some derailleur adjustments when they installed the new chain AND gave me that new SRAM chain free when the last one broke. I'll go ride this afternoon and report back on the chain, but it definitely felt good, better than the other ones, yesterday.

pyroguy_3

I think it was suggested already, but check to make sure all the teeth on your chain rings are in good condition. I can really only figure that a bent one would cause this kind of carnage. A bent tooth could possibly be putting stress on one of the side plates of the chain in some manner, eventually causing failure. I think it would be highly unlikely that this is bad luck, different brands of chains all doing the same thing. The bike shop should have checked your chain rings when you told them you had already broken a couple chains, though. good luck and keep us posted.

the1amradio

I'll check it, but the brands that BROKE were all just a generic shimano 8sp chain. How long should a chain last, anyway?

!on

sounds like bad luck as you sound like you know you're at, but for others reading, hows the indexing, any crunching sounds going across the block? is the front mech too low, ie: rubbing on the middle ring? how are all the cogs, replacing the chain, good, but are the teeth worn? is the cassette locked on the freehub tightly? are the cables too taught?

i just refitted all my drivetrain, i'm no mechanic but provided the bb axle is correct for the bike, mechs are in the right position (& not bent), cables are lubed & pulled hand tight (not overly tight), the chain when on largest / largest should be tight THEN ADD TWO LINKS, angle of the dangle screw is not making the rear mech do nasty things, rear hanger not bent, all links on the chain move freely & are cleaned / oiled, etc etc... maybe other things too

or silly things like, 9sp hub with 8spd system?

sounds like something is too tight somewhere

the1amradio

well, the teeth look fine, definitely some wear, but nothing that looks abnormal for regular weekend warrior riding. The chain tension is currently much nicer than it previously was (it had been damn tight) all of my comps look straight and as they should. it doesn't crunch going across the cassette at all,either. when i think about it though, i feel like the first LBS i went to said something about they needed a 9sp master link for the chain, which leads me to believe there was a 9sp master link on my 8sp chain. ugh, there's a reason i normally take my bike to another shop. i'll be pedaling on the trail in about an hour, so i'll report back on how it feels.

the1amradio

chain was smooth, definitely an improvement. save for my bb being a little loose and noisy for a bit, it was a very quiet and uneventful ride in terms of the bike. chain now has around 30-40 miles on it all of trails and is showing no signs of issues... must have been fixed? maybe another update will be due around 100 miles.

Cheeto

wow, The LBS here will let you go back behind the counters with them and they'll show you what they are doing, and how they are doing it, and they show you what to look for and everything.

the1amradio

Pedaled another 30mi this weekend and all is well.

Yes, the MTB oriented LBS here is great about that stuff, but there is also another bike shop, they are roadie and money oriented haha. They're pretty much just in it to sell you ****. They'll try to talk over your head a lot if they think you don't know much to sell you stuff you don't need, really bad if you ask me.

Cheeto

Had the same problem... I busted a chain on sunday.. Brand new chain, only had one 5.75 mile race on it

russiet

Ease-up just as you shift and let the chain engage fully before you push hard on the cranks. If you're pushing full power when you shift, you're just asking for the chain plates to pop.

I break rear spokes (usually a one or two a rear), but in my 30 years+ of biking, I've never busted a chain.

When I learned to shift (damn, I'm old), index shifting and contoured ramping was unheard of. It took a deft touch and careful timing to make shifts happen. That's probably what's helped me to not bust chains.

On the mountain bike, I used to go through 3 chains a year, and usually by the 3rd chain I replaced the rear cogset. My middle chainring usually needed replacing every 3 or 4 years. You can tell when the chain begins to skip over the teeth when it's supposedly fully engaged.

Buy chains on sale and learn to replace them yourself.

the1amradio

Yeah, I don't hammer it and shift at the same time, I think on the last chain I just wasn't QUITE in gear, but if looked at closer, it looks damn unlucky, like a tooth wedged itself between the plate and the bearing. Oh well, it's fixed now, or at least seems to be.

BearSquirrel

Did you see them take these chains NEW from a box or off a reel? What you're describing can often be caused by using a pressed out pin to rejoin the chain.

the1amradio

Reviving this thread.... Yeah, the chains were new from the box. I actually have broken two chains since I posted in here last. The most recent was yesterday, I was pedaling the trail in one gear only to see if I liked it enough to pick up a cheap single speed for sale locally, and at the end of the trail there is a short steep climb up some rocks/runoff ditch and half way up, I got out of the saddle and cranked it two revolutions hard and then the chain snapped. I inspected it and the pin was gone, inner links fine, outer links were warped and jacked up beyond recognition. It's getting frustrating.

xcracer13

Shifting when the chains in a load on a climb. When you shift on a climb let off the pedals just a bit and it'll save your chain. Not enough lube on it can cause it to brreak if it has alot of sand and grit in it. carry a chain tool in your pocket and a sram power link.

xcracer13

Cheeto, make sure to ask first. It's really annoying when people are walking back where you work and messin with all of your crap.

the1amradio

Read it again, xcracer, I didn't change gears the entire ride.