Guidance on sub-$1000 HT/V-brake XC
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Guidance on sub-$1000 HT/V-brake XC
I'm thinking about trading up my 15yr old fully rigid Rockhopper and am looking for the best XC/HT/V-Brake bike, either new or used. I'm thinking a HT to get the most bang for the buck and using either legs or seatpost shock as a substitute. I'm thinking V-brakes for $ and weight savings. I've never had a problem stopping on the trail, and it seems like the limiting factor is more tire grip on the trail than pad grip on the rim. In addition to being cheap, I'm also a late adopter and want to use the stuff that's been tested over time and that I can fix on the trail with a multi-tool.
If new, I'm looking at something for $1000 or less and maybe save some coin with an equivalent used bike. It's been so long since I've been in the market, I don't have a good feel for what to look for and before launching into lengthy research project, thought I'd ask for some guidance here to get me started in the right direction. A Stumpjumper is one choice (probably used), but what are other good bike choices? Also, what's a good front shock in this category and is XT the right component group here?
I've done a lot of off-road riding, both on the MB and on 250cc offroad motorcycles. I live in MD outside DC, and ride smooth to somewhat rocky and rooty trails with 100-200ft elevation changes. May make a few trips/yr into the mountains of W. MD from time to time but don't plan to any serious downhill riding.
Any guidance on what to look for in new and used bikes would be greatly appreciated!
If new, I'm looking at something for $1000 or less and maybe save some coin with an equivalent used bike. It's been so long since I've been in the market, I don't have a good feel for what to look for and before launching into lengthy research project, thought I'd ask for some guidance here to get me started in the right direction. A Stumpjumper is one choice (probably used), but what are other good bike choices? Also, what's a good front shock in this category and is XT the right component group here?
I've done a lot of off-road riding, both on the MB and on 250cc offroad motorcycles. I live in MD outside DC, and ride smooth to somewhat rocky and rooty trails with 100-200ft elevation changes. May make a few trips/yr into the mountains of W. MD from time to time but don't plan to any serious downhill riding.
Any guidance on what to look for in new and used bikes would be greatly appreciated!
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Yeah , you might have trouble finding a high end bike with v's unless it is used or online. I think some online places still stock a number of v equipped bikes while LBS's typically don't.
If servicability is you problem though, most things can be fixed with a multi tool on the trail with mechanical disc brakes anyway. Hydros aren't quite as easy if something goes wrong. On either though, if you actually bend the disk in half or something however, you are sol. Never seen it happen though.
If servicability is you problem though, most things can be fixed with a multi tool on the trail with mechanical disc brakes anyway. Hydros aren't quite as easy if something goes wrong. On either though, if you actually bend the disk in half or something however, you are sol. Never seen it happen though.
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Weight savings is nominal with Vs vs nice disks. Specialized offers a stump jumper with Vs:
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=33095
It is 700 USD over your limit though.
If you're looking for a new bike I'd just go with disk brakes. They really aren't that much of a hassle (indeed I've had fewer problems with them getting messed up by debris than I have had with my V brakes).
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=33095
It is 700 USD over your limit though.
If you're looking for a new bike I'd just go with disk brakes. They really aren't that much of a hassle (indeed I've had fewer problems with them getting messed up by debris than I have had with my V brakes).
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Your fear of disk brakes seems more like paranoia than anything. Really, they aren't much heavier, they stop better in the dirt and wet, and you can adjust how much braking goes on, as opposed to the on/off feeling of V's (most people call this modulation)
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Being a motorcyle rider, you no doubt know the old MX axiom: The faster you can stop, the faster you can go. The same does hold true for bikes. Don't reject the idea of discs out of hand. It's proven technology that has no 'kinks' left to work out.
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No doubt. Disk brakes have been around for, what, 15 years now? Not on every available bike at first of course. It has been improved on consistently for 15 years and implemented almost exclusively on todays bikes.
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not to mention cars... which have used more complex hydraulic disc brakes for quit e awhile and people tend to car about reliability on those.
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Thanks for all the feedback on disks. Any thoughts on the best HT XC in the $1K price range, or an equivalent used bike for a bit less? Right now I'm thinking used Stumpjumer if I can find one but don't have a good idea of equivalents out there. Thanks!
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V-brakes? I feel the same way. I got the Gary Fisher Marlin. Comes V or discs. I got V. For light trail riding I find it more than capable. The shock is kinda low-end for drops tho. Others might have more to say. What do you want to do anyway? If you need a high-end bike, it will have discs. They'll be fine until you whack the rotor on a rock and it gets bent. Good luck fixing that outside of a LBS.
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I'm starting to zero in on a few bikes, all steel frame. Steel seems like a good compromise of weight, cost and shock absorption, plus the alum HTs I've ridden have about loosened my fillings.
What I've run across are:
Jamis Dragon Comp. $1000 for 2007 closeout. RS Kona + XT rear. 28lbs. Looks like the best bet so far.
Marin Eldridge Columbus: $1200 MSRP. Manitou Skareb Comp. XT rear.
Rocky Mountain Hammer?
Kona?
Is there anything else I should be looking at? I'd love to buy a 2-3yr old bike to save $, but it seems most late model used bikes are aluminum, so will probably go new or last year closeout.
Thanks for any additional thoughts on this!
What I've run across are:
Jamis Dragon Comp. $1000 for 2007 closeout. RS Kona + XT rear. 28lbs. Looks like the best bet so far.
Marin Eldridge Columbus: $1200 MSRP. Manitou Skareb Comp. XT rear.
Rocky Mountain Hammer?
Kona?
Is there anything else I should be looking at? I'd love to buy a 2-3yr old bike to save $, but it seems most late model used bikes are aluminum, so will probably go new or last year closeout.
Thanks for any additional thoughts on this!
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The 2008 is a Tora, but the 2007s that are on clearance come with a Manitou Relic Super 100mm fork.
Given those options, I vote for the Dragon. I am hoping to order one later this week. Seems like a killer deal (for the 2007s), and a frame well worth upgrading.
Last edited by elemental; 04-14-08 at 04:32 PM.
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Originally Posted by MrIndy
Steel seems like a good compromise of weight, cost and shock absorption, plus the alum HTs I've ridden have about loosened my fillings
Not gonna enter the brake debate except to say that the day I replace my XTR v's can't come soon enough.
The honeymoon's so, so over.
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The Stumpy's a great bike, but tbh it is a bit harsh at the back. Doesn't bother me too much but I reckon you can sort that out (to a degree) with the right saddle and maybe a carbon or suspension post.
Not gonna enter the brake debate except to say that the day I replace my XTR v's can't come soon enough.
The honeymoon's so, so over.
Not gonna enter the brake debate except to say that the day I replace my XTR v's can't come soon enough.
The honeymoon's so, so over.
As far as I've seen described on this forum it seems that the main and only wide/mainstream use of carbon fiber is to "dampen" road noise (vibration) and not to soften blows. Of course you can design chain stays that flex enough to offer 100 mm of rear travel on a softail by Cannondale... But still
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Every little helps ;-)
I'm a Thomson man myself, but I have heard a fair few reports of carbon posts helping to give a slightly softer ride in harsh alloy frames. Combined with a good saddle it could make a difference.
Obviously I wouldn't compare one with a suspension post, never mind a rear shock but I can see how you got that impression.
I'm a Thomson man myself, but I have heard a fair few reports of carbon posts helping to give a slightly softer ride in harsh alloy frames. Combined with a good saddle it could make a difference.
Obviously I wouldn't compare one with a suspension post, never mind a rear shock but I can see how you got that impression.
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Every little helps ;-)
I'm a Thomson man myself, but I have heard a fair few reports of carbon posts helping to give a slightly softer ride in harsh alloy frames. Combined with a good saddle it could make a difference.
Obviously I wouldn't compare one with a suspension post, never mind a rear shock but I can see how you got that impression.
I'm a Thomson man myself, but I have heard a fair few reports of carbon posts helping to give a slightly softer ride in harsh alloy frames. Combined with a good saddle it could make a difference.
Obviously I wouldn't compare one with a suspension post, never mind a rear shock but I can see how you got that impression.
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It's called football mate...
Nah, I'm in London (UK) about 15 min walk from the stadium.
Nah, I'm in London (UK) about 15 min walk from the stadium.
Last edited by DickyJ; 04-14-08 at 10:00 PM.