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-   -   new to discs (https://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-biking/425181-new-discs.html)

Zan 06-02-08 06:18 PM

new to discs
 
okay, so i just got my new ride. came with Avid Juicy 3's.

Been out riding, i think they're fantastic.

Now, i know with all new bikes there is that "settling" period where everything goes to hell for the first few hundred clicks, and then you just tune it up and you've got a broken in bike. okay cool. i understand that. cables loosen/tighten or w.e. and things need to be fixed.

first couple hours riding, everything was perfect. now, as expected, i'm noticing the RD having a bit trouble switching. I got off my ride for today, and started to notice a ticking sound on the bike, in time with the wheels spinning. When i got home, i discovered that it's coming from the rear brake. the pads are rubbing against the disc ever so slightly such that the wheel slows and noise is created. same deal on the front, less distinct.

this is normal? i've only had experience with rim brakes - when you get a tick noise, it means your wheel is outta true. i don't know much 'bout discs, though! this is all part of the settling period? or... should i start tinkering with it to fix it?

thanks!

rydaddy 06-02-08 06:54 PM

It should be as simple as recentering your calipers. Loosen the caliper mounting bolts, pump the brake lever a few times and then hold. Tighten the caliper bolts.

You may have to do this a couple times. If it still doesn't work then the rotor may be out of true a little. Also, the only thing you really need to do is break in the pads. About 20 hard stops on pavement should do it.

Enjoy the new ride!

Zan 06-04-08 02:26 PM

okay...

so i took apart the rear brake system, after i took the wheel off. i just wanted to take a look and see how it all worked...

now i regret pursuing my curiosity. i didn't realize that the system started to leak once you took out the bolts until it was too late. now, the calipers are very "tight," meaning i CAN slide the disc in between, but it really grinds in (meaning lots of braking).

when i pull on the brake lever now, it just gives (bites more towards the end).

i suppose i've leaked too much fluid (DOT 4) out of the system?

how do i go about solving this? i'm not the type who brings the bike into the store. how do i fix this?

help?

Old School 06-04-08 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by Zan (Post 6818954)
okay...
how do i go about solving this? i'm not the type who brings the bike into the store. how do i fix this? help?

Take it to the LBS -- you will be back on the trail sooner! :D

Zan 06-04-08 05:03 PM


Originally Posted by Old School (Post 6819428)
Take it to the LBS -- you will be back on the trail sooner! :D

You don't understand! That's not my style! The guys at my LBS know me as the kid who buys tools and fluids, and only tools and fluids - never bought a bike there, a helmet, gloves, anything but tools and fluids! ;)

But I did call 'em up asking 'bout the problem. They said 30$ they'll fix it for me, or 40$ i can buy the kit to fix it myself. I chose the kit. I like fixing things (a skill i've HAD to acquire).

So... 40$ and an hour later, i've fixed everything, and it's better than before. poifect! now i know how to do it again and again... you know what that means! more free food from buddies whose bikes break down!

cryptid01 06-04-08 05:11 PM


Originally Posted by Zan (Post 6819925)
They said 30$ they'll fix it for me, or 40$ i can buy the kit to fix it myself. I chose the kit. I like fixing things (a skill i've HAD to acquire).

I like fixing things too, but I seldom pay more for the privilege.

What was in this kit, exactly?

foresthill 06-04-08 05:33 PM

Why should you have to pay money to get a brand new bike working properly?

I believe the kits contains some DOT fluid and a few hose fittings, etc.

I bought a bleed kit to service my (no longer close to new) hayes when the time came, too.

Old School 06-04-08 05:45 PM


Originally Posted by foresthill (Post 6820104)
Why should you have to pay money to get a brand new bike working properly?

See #3 above...
Sometimes you have to pay for your "curiosity"! :o

Zan 06-04-08 06:56 PM

it was the avid juicy bleed kit... came with the fluid + syringes + fittings + destructions.

i could've payed the 10$ less, but now i know how to do it so that it works... if i ever need to do it again (lets say i get stupid again), then i won't have to pay any extra since i have everything i need... same with friends - i can help 'em out whenever they need it too.

Wahooligan 06-06-08 09:41 AM

Learning skills is a great thing. I enjoy learning how things work as well. You should talk to your bike shop and see if they will let you "intern" there for a bit. I bet you could pick up a lot of skills for free that way.

idcruiserman 06-06-08 11:06 AM

SRAM's website has manuals for everything, including Avid disc brakes.

Zan 06-06-08 08:06 PM


Originally Posted by idcruiserman (Post 6831465)
SRAM's website has manuals for everything, including Avid disc brakes.

i used it before i went to get the kit. figured i needed the kit, went out and got it, and destructions were in the kit - followed 'em. piece of cake.

okay, i still have a concern...

front wheel = fine. beautiful.

rear wheel is still kinda buggered up. you flip the bike over to let 'em spin freely. front is fine (as stated). rear doesn't "coast" for very long. you spin it and see how long it takes to stop, and it's not very long! the pads are catching the disc perpetually.

when i bled out the brakes, i can't imagine i put too much fluid in - how do you do that? it seems like the calipers are pushed too close to the disc. how do i push 'em back? they say remove the wheel, stick a screwdriver in and gently push 'em back. i tried that, and it didn't really work?

i don't want to bugger up the pads i have by using "force." if i remove them, would i be able to push 'em back without ruining anything? this might sound like a dumb question (i'm a noob, forgive me), but: CAN i push the calipers back any further? maybe 'cause of pressure in the lines or something i can't? i don't know these things - i'm here to learn.

Cheeto 06-07-08 11:02 AM

^that exactly why my next bike will have mech's on it lol.

Zan 06-07-08 03:27 PM

scratch my last post. i figured out how to fix it. just loosen the two bolts that hold the unit attached to the frame and fiddle 'round with it and tighten it back down. yeah, now i realize what rydaddy was talking 'bout.

the guys at my LBS now know me as the kid who screwed up his hyds. at least they know who i am now! :p

looks like all my problems are solved now - cool.

Zan 06-12-08 07:44 PM

i thought i wouldn't start a new thread, but just continue on with this old one, since it's the same general topic...

i went out for half an hour on the streets. was practicing trying to get a wheelie and working on trackstands and other things. i was about to call it a day and was riding back to the house. while doing so, i started pumping on the fork (ooh, nice and cushy!) and bounced up and down. wearing clipless, i started doing bunny hops. after the second bunny hop, a brake pad flew out of the bike. i realized it was a pad a little late, after i squeezed the brakes lightly to turn around to see what the part was.

so i put it back in. now the disc is being clamped by the pads tight. i tried adjusting the the position of the calipers... no luck. there is still a lot of rubbing. do i have to push back the calipers with a screwdriver or something to solve this? what do i do?

weak system... psht.

sorry if it seems like i'm ranting. i spent my money on a nice bike so i wouldn't have to put up with this bs.

EDIT:

Screw it, i'll figure it out. nevermind.


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