I have a secret...
03-01-09, 05:05 PM
#2
Old School Rad
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: The old Mountains
Posts: 8,206
Bikes: Blur LT
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This is the best thread ever!!!!!!!
__________________
Like a circus monkey on a stolen Harley......
Like a circus monkey on a stolen Harley......
03-01-09, 05:47 PM
#4
Still kicking.
You broke the Komodo?
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
03-01-09, 08:42 PM
#8
.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Summit of Lee
Posts: 10,939
Bikes: Hecklah
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I've lost all faith in the cheap'o 55. The new TST may work fine, but I'm tired of messing with it.
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=250378262499
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=250378262499
03-01-09, 08:55 PM
#10
.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Summit of Lee
Posts: 10,939
Bikes: Hecklah
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I dunno...I've never found a fork to be "too plush". Maybe he didn't know that you can get heavier springs, or adjust the compression/rebound:
Last edited by ed; 03-02-09 at 06:29 AM.
03-01-09, 08:57 PM
#11
Banned.
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,569
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
NICE.
I was looking it up, and apparently the fact that the stanchions are steel meant that they were able to coat it with chrome, supposedly the smoothest surface. So the fork is supposed to be super smooth.
I was looking it up, and apparently the fact that the stanchions are steel meant that they were able to coat it with chrome, supposedly the smoothest surface. So the fork is supposed to be super smooth.
03-01-09, 09:01 PM
#12
.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Summit of Lee
Posts: 10,939
Bikes: Hecklah
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I've heard +'s and -'s regarding the smoothness of Domains. I won't know until I try it, I guess. I can't imagine it being any smoother than that dang 55, but if it's not quite as smooth but the damping actually works...I'll be like...so...totally...like...stoked...dood!
03-02-09, 09:22 AM
#15
Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: East coast
Posts: 3,486
Bikes: hardtail, squishy, fixed roadie, fixed crosser
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You'll dig it. Get the right spring for yourself, and you'll be golden. Maybe give it a fresh oil change when you swap springs and it'll feel sweet!
03-02-09, 10:13 AM
#16
.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Summit of Lee
Posts: 10,939
Bikes: Hecklah
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Any oil level information on these?
03-02-09, 10:30 AM
#17
Official Website Waterboy
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,271
Bikes: a lot
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Jellowjeep might be interested in your Zoke once you change the damper. He could Ebay his while it still works.
03-02-09, 11:23 AM
#18
Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: East coast
Posts: 3,486
Bikes: hardtail, squishy, fixed roadie, fixed crosser
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Spare parts list/diagram - Domain is page #56-57
https://sram.com/_media/techdocs/2009...ce%20list).pdf
Coil/air spring weights, service intervals, torque values, oil volumes, a2c heights:
https://sram.com/_media/techdocs/07_R...nformation.pdf
Technical service manual:
https://sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/.../TM_MY09_E.pdf
03-02-09, 11:46 AM
#19
Fourth Degree Legend
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: American Gardens Building
Posts: 3,826
Bikes: 2005 Kona Cinder Cone & 2010 Cannondale SuperSix
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Damn. I thought you were pregnant, chelboed.
03-02-09, 01:03 PM
#20
.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Summit of Lee
Posts: 10,939
Bikes: Hecklah
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
So, this is gonna cost me way more than the $183 that I thought I was going to have to pay. If this were my Fox Vanilla, I would just have to pop the preload cap, pull the spring, put in new spring. Done.
Irritating:
Gonna need to buy 15wt oil - $15-19
Gonna need to buy 5wt oil - $15-19
You can't just buy the spring. You need to buy a spring assembly which is $40-48. There are only a few people who carry the "firm" spring. I can get the X-Firm spring for $10 cheaper.
So...if I do it myself, the absolute cheapest I can get by is probably gonna be $65 or so. That's if I gimp out and don't buy any new 15wt to change out the damper side. (which I think is probably not a good idea)
Still though...if I pay $80, I still have less than $300 in it.
Still a little pissed.
Irritating:
Gonna need to buy 15wt oil - $15-19
Gonna need to buy 5wt oil - $15-19
You can't just buy the spring. You need to buy a spring assembly which is $40-48. There are only a few people who carry the "firm" spring. I can get the X-Firm spring for $10 cheaper.
So...if I do it myself, the absolute cheapest I can get by is probably gonna be $65 or so. That's if I gimp out and don't buy any new 15wt to change out the damper side. (which I think is probably not a good idea)
Still though...if I pay $80, I still have less than $300 in it.
Still a little pissed.
03-02-09, 01:16 PM
#21
Moar cowbell
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: The 509
Posts: 12,481
Bikes: Bike list is not a resume. Nobody cares.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
^^ Consolation: If you get a liter each of Bel-Ray fork oil, you'll be able to do yours, 5 neighbors' and still have leftover for a couple more changes 
.
.
__________________
RST Suspension | Canfield Bikes | 7iDP Protection | Maxxis | Renthal | Hayes | VonZipper Optics | GoPro
Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
03-02-09, 02:29 PM
#23
.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Summit of Lee
Posts: 10,939
Bikes: Hecklah
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
It's just to keep it lubed. Doesn't affect the damping in any way. I'm actually gonna hold off on the oil for now. I have a Firm spring OTW, and I'm just gonna do the 5cc lower spring side with my Fox oil.
I'm going to see how it damps before I invest in a whole jug'a'juice. If I think it's under-damped, I'll just use my 7.5wt in the damper instead of the 5wt. If the 5wt feels rockin', then I'll just buy a jug.
03-02-09, 02:34 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Under the Downunder
Posts: 1,014
Bikes: MTBs, BMX, Pocket MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So, this is gonna cost me way more than the $183 that I thought I was going to have to pay. If this were my Fox Vanilla, I would just have to pop the preload cap, pull the spring, put in new spring. Done.
Irritating:
Gonna need to buy 15wt oil - $15-19
Gonna need to buy 5wt oil - $15-19
You can't just buy the spring. You need to buy a spring assembly which is $40-48. There are only a few people who carry the "firm" spring. I can get the X-Firm spring for $10 cheaper.
So...if I do it myself, the absolute cheapest I can get by is probably gonna be $65 or so. That's if I gimp out and don't buy any new 15wt to change out the damper side. (which I think is probably not a good idea)
Still though...if I pay $80, I still have less than $300 in it.
Still a little pissed.
Irritating:
Gonna need to buy 15wt oil - $15-19
Gonna need to buy 5wt oil - $15-19
You can't just buy the spring. You need to buy a spring assembly which is $40-48. There are only a few people who carry the "firm" spring. I can get the X-Firm spring for $10 cheaper.
So...if I do it myself, the absolute cheapest I can get by is probably gonna be $65 or so. That's if I gimp out and don't buy any new 15wt to change out the damper side. (which I think is probably not a good idea)
Still though...if I pay $80, I still have less than $300 in it.
Still a little pissed.
.
03-02-09, 02:43 PM
#25
Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: East coast
Posts: 3,486
Bikes: hardtail, squishy, fixed roadie, fixed crosser
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Get your stuff oil-wise from a moto shop. Way cheaper, and you'll have plenty for many, many oil changes down the road.
When swapping the spring, you don't need to remove the lowers at all. Have the fork sitting flat (so no oil leaks out top or bottom) pull old spring out, pop new in, do up the lower bolt and topcap. Good to go with minimal oil loss. As you've noted, the coil side only uses a tiny amount.
When swapping the spring, you don't need to remove the lowers at all. Have the fork sitting flat (so no oil leaks out top or bottom) pull old spring out, pop new in, do up the lower bolt and topcap. Good to go with minimal oil loss. As you've noted, the coil side only uses a tiny amount.