Lightest fluid for Avid Codes on XC bike?
#51
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Well God bless Shorty.
Nah...big-time nooblet here. I totally agree though...it takes years of experience to master the "pulling of the hydro lever". It's an art form that is taken for granted.
Nah...big-time nooblet here. I totally agree though...it takes years of experience to master the "pulling of the hydro lever". It's an art form that is taken for granted.
Last edited by ed; 09-16-08 at 06:12 AM.
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I know how you feel my juicy sevens just don't feel right so I called and talked to a tech a sram and asked him why they don't feel like my bb7s. What really made me mad was the fact that on my bb7s if I hardly pulled the lever I could get them to skid but not so with hydro they just don't have the same stopping power
#53
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I know how you feel my juicy sevens just don't feel right so I called and talked to a tech a sram and asked him why they don't feel like my bb7s. What really made me mad was the fact that on my bb7s if I hardly pulled the lever I could get them to skid but not so with hydro they just don't have the same stopping power
#55
Just say no to brakes.
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I'm a firm believer in the endless modulation of FootinthetyreStop pads myself.
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This thread rocks.........
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Like a circus monkey on a stolen Harley......
Like a circus monkey on a stolen Harley......
#58
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Well, I'm running 185's right now. I'm considering putting a 9" Raven rotor on the rear so I can slide it around the trail a bit more. I can probably compensate for the added weight by running a 160mm up front. I did see a way to convert the front to 140mm using a different MFGR rotor flipped backwards, but I'd have to run some "racing" brake fluid due to the extra heat.
Last edited by ed; 09-16-08 at 09:39 AM.
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Hehe...tires, rotors...who counts?
Sorry my old friend Rutnick...I'm running Kenda Excavator 2.35" DTC's. CO2 filled.
Sorry my old friend Rutnick...I'm running Kenda Excavator 2.35" DTC's. CO2 filled.
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You'd knock over 100 grams just by going to the same tire but 2.1 in the rear.
I run 2.25s in the front and 2.1s in the back.
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Alligator rotors are lighter than stock avids. Get the serrated rotors.
https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/162...rake-Rotor.htm
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Funny thang...(forgot about this thread)...I'm running the FRHT version of that bike now. Pike fork. I've got it setup for light FR / aggressive AllMountain trail yada...
I've got a 140R/160F rotors
Works for KS.
I've got a 140R/160F rotors
Works for KS.
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Ha ha. I hang my head in shame 'cause it took me a few posts to realize what you were doing here. "or maybe even 5wt motor oil mixed with water" should have been a dead giveaway.
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#71
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Rotors made of alligator skin are definitely lighter but won't hold up to the braking forces a Code piston will put out- especially if you're running pneumatic lines. Stick with the metal ones if you want to stop.
On the other hand, relacing your hubs to rims made of rhinoceros horn should drop a few hundred grams. I hear you can even get Rhino-lites on the internets.
On the other hand, relacing your hubs to rims made of rhinoceros horn should drop a few hundred grams. I hear you can even get Rhino-lites on the internets.
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I've read tests where Canola oil mixed in a 90/10 ratio with boiled linseed oil and injected with argon gas has 1/3 the molecular weight of DOT 4 LMA brake fluid and actually compresses less - - making the brakes more powerful to boot.
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