Those rotors really heat up don't they?
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Those rotors really heat up don't they?
I was curious today, and after a hard, but short stop in my drive way I felt the rotor... burnt the tip of my finger lol. just thought I'd start some useless conversation. I didn't think they'd heat up that quick/hot.
I can only imagine how hot they get on a Downhill race or something.
I can only imagine how hot they get on a Downhill race or something.
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I was curious today, and after a hard, but short stop in my drive way I felt the rotor... burnt the tip of my finger lol. just thought I'd start some useless conversation. I didn't think they'd heat up that quick/hot.
I can only imagine how hot they get on a Downhill race or something.
I can only imagine how hot they get on a Downhill race or something.
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lol, I washed my car after i was hot rodding in it, I sprayed the front rim with the hose and an explosion of steam happened!
thats some serious heat to warp them though.
does this heat have any effect on pads?
thats some serious heat to warp them though.
does this heat have any effect on pads?
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You could possibly screw up your pads if you get things too hot, and rotors, but it's generally a non-issue. Yes, they get hot. Larger rotors help, as well as vented calipers and so on, but they'll still easily get hot enough to steam and burn. Doesn't really take much.
Now don't go sticking your tongue in the light socket, mkay?
Now don't go sticking your tongue in the light socket, mkay?
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After a 3 mile decent with long straights and sharp hairpins there was an odd burning smell coming from the pads and I had almost no stopping power. After about 15 mins or so it got a bit better. But then again the pads were already slightly ruined anyways, so I didnt notice much. But the rotor must have been glazed over because I had much more stopping power after I replaced it. Also, you will warp your rotor if you water it. . . (but I think you already know that so. . .)
Last edited by ca7erham; 09-29-08 at 03:32 PM.
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Ill keep that in mind when the rain comes this winter, the creek at Thomson Trail will be flowing. its at the bottom of a fairly agressive down hill..
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Brakes work by converting the kinetic energy of your forward motion into heat at the pad/rim or pad/rotor interface. A big function of the rotor/rim in braking is to dissipate the heat generated. In other words they act as a heat sink to remove heat from pads and transfer to the rim/rotor then to the air. Obviously too much heat can damage anything even your finger. The rim/rotor need time to cool. Give them a break once in a while by hitting a tree to stop.
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i've heard of brake systems getting so hot that the fluid overheats and causes the brakes to get stuck on, I know in cars you can get fluid fade by boiling the brake fluid (usually only happens to racers who repededly brake hard from like 100+) but on cars you have that big fluid resevoir so instead of brakes getting stuck on you get lots of gas in the lines that makes the brakes suck big time and then you crash lol, thats why they buy expensive brake fluid. Never thought of warping bike rotors, cause u can just bend em back and resurface with super fine sand paper but w/e, also i don't think bike rotors get hot enough/ are too small to warp from getting a little wet, car rotors do get that hot and ar thick enough that the differences in heat and the rapid cooling causes warping if you hose down hot rotors
oh and on a random note it would be cool if someone made a double brake for downhill like on yamaha motorcycles, they have a rotor on each side of the wheel and of course each rotor has its own caliper. The other day i saw one that had 6 piston calipers on each side and huge f-ing rotors, now thats some stopping power, just imagine running 2 codes on dual 8in rotors, lol i'd go over the handlebars, also i'd bust my fork cause i don't have a dh bike
also don't touch your rotors even when cold cause the oils in your fingers are bad for the brake pads , if you do touch your rotors or get oil/grease on em clean them with rubbing alcohol and paper towels (not cloth shop rags cause the fibers get stuck in the pads, paper just burns out cause its crappier)
oh and on a random note it would be cool if someone made a double brake for downhill like on yamaha motorcycles, they have a rotor on each side of the wheel and of course each rotor has its own caliper. The other day i saw one that had 6 piston calipers on each side and huge f-ing rotors, now thats some stopping power, just imagine running 2 codes on dual 8in rotors, lol i'd go over the handlebars, also i'd bust my fork cause i don't have a dh bike
also don't touch your rotors even when cold cause the oils in your fingers are bad for the brake pads , if you do touch your rotors or get oil/grease on em clean them with rubbing alcohol and paper towels (not cloth shop rags cause the fibers get stuck in the pads, paper just burns out cause its crappier)
Last edited by sirtigersalot; 09-28-08 at 09:02 PM.
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I was curious today, and after a hard, but short stop in my drive way I felt the rotor... burnt the tip of my finger lol. just thought I'd start some useless conversation. I didn't think they'd heat up that quick/hot.
I can only imagine how hot they get on a Downhill race or something.
I can only imagine how hot they get on a Downhill race or something.
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i've heard of brake systems getting so hot that the fluid overheats and causes the brakes to get stuck on, I know in cars you can get fluid fade by boiling the brake fluid (usually only happens to racers who repededly brake hard from like 100+) but on cars you have that big fluid resevoir so instead of brakes getting stuck on you get lots of gas in the lines that makes the brakes suck big time and then you crash lol, thats why they buy expensive brake fluid. Never thought of warping bike rotors, cause u can just bend em back and resurface with super fine sand paper but w/e, also i don't think bike rotors get hot enough/ are too small to warp from getting a little wet, car rotors do get that hot and ar thick enough that the differences in heat and the rapid cooling causes warping if you hose down hot rotors
oh and on a random note it would be cool if someone made a double brake for downhill like on yamaha motorcycles, they have a rotor on each side of the wheel and of course each rotor has its own caliper. The other day i saw one that had 6 piston calipers on each side and huge f-ing rotors, now thats some stopping power, just imagine running 2 codes on dual 8in rotors, lol i'd go over the handlebars, also i'd bust my fork cause i don't have a dh bike
also don't touch your rotors even when cold cause the oils in your fingers are bad for the brake pads , if you do touch your rotors or get oil/grease on em clean them with rubbing alcohol and paper towels (not cloth shop rags cause the fibers get stuck in the pads, paper just burns out cause its crappier)
oh and on a random note it would be cool if someone made a double brake for downhill like on yamaha motorcycles, they have a rotor on each side of the wheel and of course each rotor has its own caliper. The other day i saw one that had 6 piston calipers on each side and huge f-ing rotors, now thats some stopping power, just imagine running 2 codes on dual 8in rotors, lol i'd go over the handlebars, also i'd bust my fork cause i don't have a dh bike
also don't touch your rotors even when cold cause the oils in your fingers are bad for the brake pads , if you do touch your rotors or get oil/grease on em clean them with rubbing alcohol and paper towels (not cloth shop rags cause the fibers get stuck in the pads, paper just burns out cause its crappier)
And the double brake thing has been done, and found to be unnecessary.
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Larger rotors, a good bleed, and good pads for your system. If your system can take anything fluid-wise that can handle higher heat, swap fluids when doing a bleed. (ie: Avid hydros taking DOT5.1 vs. the stock fluid.
Also, don't ride your brakes.
Also, don't ride your brakes.
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ps-what car are you "hot rodding"?
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wow i didn't realize anyone did the double brake thing, cause you would need brake tabs on both sides of teh rotors, and yeah it would be way overkill but really funny
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avoid holding your brake for too long, cause it will heat up your rotor which could result into your pad not to be able to get a proper grip to the rotor.
Instead feather the brakes (Im not sure if I spelled it right), what I meant is, you push release push release your brake lever, that should prevent your rotor from getting too heat up.
Instead feather the brakes (Im not sure if I spelled it right), what I meant is, you push release push release your brake lever, that should prevent your rotor from getting too heat up.
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On cars a lot of "warp" isn't really warp, it's pad material deposited on the rotor surface. This happens when the rotors and pads get very hot and the car comes to a complete stop and remains motionless with the brake on, leaving the pad in contact with the rotor. An example may be coming to a fast stop off of the interstate and remaining stationary at a stop light with the brakes on. I think this is more often responsible for car rotor warp than actual warp.
Something to think about on the bike: if your brakes are hot then don't leave them on after you've come to a stop, just put your foot down and let go of the brake (not possible in a car obviously).
Something to think about on the bike: if your brakes are hot then don't leave them on after you've come to a stop, just put your foot down and let go of the brake (not possible in a car obviously).
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On cars a lot of "warp" isn't really warp, it's pad material deposited on the rotor surface. This happens when the rotors and pads get very hot and the car comes to a complete stop and remains motionless with the brake on, leaving the pad in contact with the rotor. An example may be coming to a fast stop off of the interstate and remaining stationary at a stop light with the brakes on. I think this is more often responsible for car rotor warp than actual warp.
Something to think about on the bike: if your brakes are hot then don't leave them on after you've come to a stop, just put your foot down and let go of the brake (not possible in a car obviously).
Something to think about on the bike: if your brakes are hot then don't leave them on after you've come to a stop, just put your foot down and let go of the brake (not possible in a car obviously).
Last edited by Quick_Torch C5; 09-29-08 at 07:49 AM.
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If you were trying to say the pad is transferring heat to the rotor and causing hot spots, then I can agree with that. Just be careful about writing about something you just read without experience.
Last edited by Quick_Torch C5; 09-29-08 at 09:23 AM.
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