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XTR Rotors

Old 11-21-08, 03:25 PM
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XTR Rotors

Hey people, I did a search but couldn't find too much; wanna make sure I'm doing this right:

When I put the rotor on the wheel, it's a tight fit. Do I just use the Shimano TL-LR15 (of course remove the skewer) and just torque this down at the recommendation (40 N-m) even if it seems tight already?





The Shimano tech doc is here, but it doesn't seem to say the rotor's splines ass'y is supposed to be a tight fit when you initially put it on:

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830648440.PDF

TIA!
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Old 11-21-08, 03:42 PM
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For center lock rotors I'd just put it on Gudentight and not worry too much about a specific torque value. I don't think you have to hit 40 Newtons.
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Old 11-21-08, 03:47 PM
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Thanks.

What's wierd is one rotor goes on easy; one difficult. I swapped rotors and it's not the Shimano Rotor, it seems like the Mavic Crossmax SLR front spline is a little out of tolerance, making a really tight fit on the disk rotor spline.
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Old 11-21-08, 03:58 PM
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Just make certain that the rotor is bottoming out in the hub mount. If it's floating a bit and you tighten it down it could be out of plane when spinning and cause a serious rubbing issue with the caliper.

Mike
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Old 11-21-08, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mcoomer View Post
Just make certain that the rotor is bottoming out in the hub mount. If it's floating a bit and you tighten it down it could be out of plane when spinning and cause a serious rubbing issue with the caliper.

Mike
Cool, I lightly pounded it in by the Rotor axle with my fist, and it bottomed out.

I know a little OT, but now I have to mount the XTR M970 9 Speed Cassette on the Mavic Crossmax SLR's M10 freehub...

I know how to match the wide part of the spline, but do I just keep the rubber gasket that's on the Mavic, just slip the cassette on and tighten with the tool? Should I be putting any grease on the freehub body?

TIA

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830600621.pdf
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Old 11-21-08, 05:01 PM
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I would think grease would just attract dirt, and since your cassette isnt supposed to move anyway, it can probably do without.
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Old 11-21-08, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by elf 232 View Post
I would think grease would just attract dirt, and since your cassette isnt supposed to move anyway, it can probably do without.
Thanks; I'll leave it dry. Should I keep the O-Ring that's on the freehub?
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Old 11-21-08, 05:58 PM
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i always grease the cassette splines, thats what i was told to do, you could also grease the splines on the rotor so it woudl slip on easier but you already got it on so... (also u'd have to be careful no xtra grease was there to get on the rotor)
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Old 11-21-08, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sirtigersalot View Post
i always grease the cassette splines, thats what i was told to do, you could also grease the splines on the rotor so it woudl slip on easier but you already got it on so... (also u'd have to be careful no xtra grease was there to get on the rotor)
Thx; maybe I'll just use a tiny bit of the new Dumonde Tech grease I got at Interbike; I just don't want it to attract dirt; maybe that's the function of that o-ring or gasket?

It's funny that this big 9 speed XTR cassette seems to feel as light as a road Ultegra cassette
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Old 11-21-08, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by stevesurf View Post
It's funny that this big 9 speed XTR cassette seems to feel as light as a road Ultegra cassette
Aren't some of the cogs titanium?
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Old 11-21-08, 09:48 PM
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I wouldn't worry about the grease attracting dust. I would worry about it migrating down to the braking surface on the rotor and contaminating your pads. I wouldn't use a dab of grease of any brake component.

Mike
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Old 11-21-08, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by stevesurf View Post
It's funny that this big 9 speed XTR cassette seems to feel as light as a road Ultegra cassette
They're both boat-anchors next to a Dura-ace 11-21. Yea for mail order and deflated European currencies.

Nice wheels BTW.
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Old 11-21-08, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mcoomer View Post
I wouldn't worry about the grease attracting dust. I would worry about it migrating down to the braking surface on the rotor and contaminating your pads. I wouldn't use a dab of grease of any brake component.

Mike
+1. Unless you have a ti or aluminum (!!!) freehub body, they are usually not plated or anything, so grease is a good idea, at least on the freehub body.

For the brake rotor and hub spline, as far as I know, these parts are fully plated, thus no grease needed, and ditto the concern for grease migration and subsequent rotor/pad contamination. Check out the parts/components of higher quality MTB's (and road bikes, for that matter) - there is a lot of aluminum/anodizing/plating coming into play there, which is why the bike does so well in wet conditions.
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Old 11-21-08, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kenhill3 View Post
Aren't some of the cogs titanium?
Yes, I think the four large cogs are; it is actually 38g lighter than an ULtegra Road cassette - I guess it wasn't my imagination that it felt lighter, but I have a hard time believing you can feel a 38g difference.
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Old 11-21-08, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ghettocruiser View Post
They're both boat-anchors next to a Dura-ace 11-21. Yea for mail order and deflated European currencies.

Nice wheels BTW.
Of course they are, you are talking cassette with 21 tooth large cog. Corn cob.
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Old 11-22-08, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ghettocruiser View Post
They're both boat-anchors next to a Dura-ace 11-21. Yea for mail order and deflated European currencies.

Nice wheels BTW.
Thanks; Crossmax SLRs $300 ea. on Chainlove; we'll see if they hold up as well as the SL's

Originally Posted by kenhill3 View Post
+1. Unless you have a ti or aluminum (!!!) freehub body, they are usually not plated or anything, so grease is a good idea, at least on the freehub body.

For the brake rotor and hub spline, as far as I know, these parts are fully plated, thus no grease needed, and ditto the concern for grease migration and subsequent rotor/pad contamination. Check out the parts/components of higher quality MTB's (and road bikes, for that matter) - there is a lot of aluminum/anodizing/plating coming into play there, which is why the bike does so well in wet conditions.
Never knew this; thanks. Glad I was able to get XTR
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Old 11-26-08, 10:17 PM
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Quick follow up question: for the rear wheel, after putting the cassette on one ring at a time, hand tightening the lock ring, I borrowed Henri's Shimano Cassette Lockring Tool TL - LR15, but the wheel's axle doesn't allow me to seat the tool all the way in to the lock ring splines. I tried tightening as best as I could and it seems fine.

Has anyone else had difficulty with this, or do you just hand tighten the lock ring?
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Old 11-27-08, 09:10 PM
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If you can hand-tighten a shimano lockring to the required 40 N-m you have...very strong fingers.

Get a lockring tool with longer splines.
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