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Old 04-19-09, 08:32 AM   #1
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IRD dual banger caliper adjustment

Okay, so heres my issue....

Have a IRD dual banger mech disk on front. Rotor is not bent, and pads are semi new (nery little wear.) For the life of me I cannot get it adjusted so its not rubbing. Its either too loose when its not rubbing, or rubs like crap when it works as I'd like it too. I like my front brake to be very touchy. Here is how I have adjusted them:

1. Loosen slack from cable, bottom out both barrel adjusters
2. Loosen mounting bolts
3. By hand, squeeze caliper tight, and tighten bolts, alternating between bolts 1/8 turn at a time till snug
4. Let go hand and remove slack from cable, making sure caliper arm doesn't move.

Still rubs. Wheel locks up like I want it to, but can still hear it rub. There are no tight spots when I spin the wheel, so I know the rotor is not bent, and the wheel is centered in the dropouts. (must add this is a QR wheel.) This is how the IRD manual and website says to adjust them. I have also tried the directions on the park site for adjusting Avid mech brakes, keeping in mind that when adjusting the pad adjusting knobs, that both pads move and the gap needs to be the same, not the inner gab larger. Same thing... I have also adjusted the way I would if the outer pad was fixed, as in avid brakes.

Any suggestions. I have been patient, as I know its a art to get these adjusted correctly. I am starting to think its how tight I like the brakes to be. But that shouldn't make a difference. Thanks in advance for any input.
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Old 04-19-09, 02:30 PM   #2
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Check the pull ratio of your brake levers... ratios do vary.

If you have a low ratio (less cable pull), your caliper pads will not have enough clearance against the rotor, by the time all the things that stretch and compress comes into play - in order for you to have the brake engage at the point where you want it to.

Avid makes a lever where the ratio is adjustable, but they are pricey... or you could change to a high ratio lever (more cable pull with same lever throw - longer distance between the lever pivot and where the cable pulls from). Borrow someone else's to try first before you buy, so you know it solves your problem before spending.

You can also try changing to a compression-less cable outer, and/or/plus a thicker brake cable inner. They will minimize the "play" and therefore make your brake engage earlier, with enough pad clearance - with your current brake levers.


Last edited by Pocko; 04-19-09 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 04-19-09, 06:50 PM   #3
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Why bottom out the barrel adusters? Why not leave them out a turn or two so you can back the tension off with a click or so?
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Old 04-19-09, 10:05 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Pocko View Post
Check the pull ratio of your brake levers... ratios do vary.
Except that Dual-Bangers are not suppposed to need the extra cable-pull of cantilever levers - - supposed to work with vee-brake ones. Only the old RST mehanicals needed that AFAIK.

joe, are both worms (inner and outer) activating the pads equally? Is the caliper housing exactly centered on the rotor after the caliper is tightened down. If one is not moving as freely/equally, when you squeeze it tight, the caliper may not be quite centering on the rotor.

B2B - - sounds like he has slack to take out after cinching things down. That's understandable; you never get it all out at the cable pinch (or shouldn't anyway).

Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."

Last edited by dminor; 04-19-09 at 10:08 PM.
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