Raleigh M50 Upgrades
 

I have an 1999 Raleigh M50 7 spd, with Shimano Altus components. I used to trail ride approx 50 mi/week. About 5 years ago I had an an accident with a table saw and lost a good part of a digit, work got busy, and family activities seemed to get in the way of rides. I recently re-connected with a friend and we started to ride again 2 days a week. The last ride we went on my rear derailer self destructed, which started me on an upgrade path.

I purchased a Shimano Alivio RD-M410 rear derailer, a new rear derailer mount, new shift cables and a Shimano HG-50 7/8 speed chain. Since I have some time on my hand and the bike is out of operation I started to read and learn about bottom brackets, front derailers, cranks and chainrings.

I have front shifting issues going from middle to granny gear. My chainrings are showing wear with the middle ring missing 3-4 teeth, and the inner 1-2. The Altus front derailer is a e-type, the crank uses welded chainrings and the bottom bracket is 68x116 square shaft.

After doing some googling I came up with these front components and was hoping I could get some comments if they seem like a good fit and more importantly will they work.

SHIMANO DEORE FC-M540 CRANKSET 170mm 44, 32, 22
SHIMANO BB-ES25 BOTTOM BRACKET 68 X 113MM
SHIMANO LX FD-M580 FRONT DERAILLEUR top pull

You might also just consider buying a new bike, that was a $300 bike 10 years ago. If you're really wanting to just install a new front derailleur and crank/bb, at least you're not going too expensive. However, the crank you spec'd uses a 121 or 126 mm spindle length for the bottom bracket (I'll assume your bottom bracket shell is 68mm wide), for a 47.5 or 50mm chainline respectively. The front derailleur sounds good but depends how much you're looking to pay.

It's possible you might just need your front derailleur adjusted (front derailleurs are fairly durable and there's not much to them if they worked before and haven't been damaged, although am no fan of e-types in any case).

That new chain may have problems with the old cassette depending on how worn it is (it'll skip on the teeth if it's too worn).

+1 to new bike

wall mart/off wall shop/crap

invest your money where it counts!

I would love to get a new bike.. But money is tight thus the upgrades.

I've adjusted and had a bike shop adjust the front derailer to no avail. I'm thinking the chainring or something with the e-bracket is causing the shift issue. For little $$ I can upgrade the derailer, crank and chainrings..

BTW I bought this bike from a small hometown shop. It has treated me well and for the riding I do. 5 years ago and 20 pounds lighter, I could out climb, out spin, generally go faster than my buddy who had a bike 5x times more expensive than my M50.. I told him when he could beat me up a hill I'd take off my kick stand..

M50 Upgraded
 

Here is a follow up. Instead of saving for a new bike I decided to upgrade the M50's drive train. I spent a bit more than I wanted but every thing is working well. Here is my final parts list with pictures. This was a great learning experience since it's been a long time since I've wrenched a bicycle. Thanks for everyone's input..

Shimano Deore M540 175mm Octalink Crankset with 44, 32, 22 chain rings
Shimano ES51 68x113 Bottom Bracket (the 121 measured a 54mm Chainline)
Crankset

Shimano DeoreLX FD-M580 Front Derailer (31.8mm)
Front Derailer

Shimano HG50 6,7,8 speed chain
Chain

Shimano Alivio RD-M410 Rear Derailer
Rear Derailer


#43 Derailer hanger

I have used M50 mid 1990s I recently purchased I was going to use the parts but I took a liking to the bike and recided to rebuild and keep it. So I am in process of complete overhaul on this baby. complete removal cleaning greasing of components, replacement of tires, grips seat etc.

My recent discovery was worn bottom bracket. I could not find exact replacement locally and did not want to wait for online order. I pulled old went to local bike shop

old was Schimano bb lp 25 with hard screw side on the non crank side of bike.
new bike shop gave me bb-un26 that looks like it fits but here is what happened.

connections on new are reversed from OEM typically you screw in the hard metal side into crank end and then put plastic non crank end left second. the new bb seems to screw in too much that the left end plastic screw cap wont tighten up to the frame. I have about 1/8 to 3/16 gap on left side.

I removed and matched up old to new and found the treads on new are deeper causing the assembly to dive into the frame thus causing right end crank to stick out.

My thought is to put some washers on the crank end right side to pull the assembly back out and see if the plastic end left will secure up to the frame.

How far out can I take the crank end shaft as to not mess up my chain and rear cassette function?

I did this with a Spalding Blade BB replacement the new did not give me enough space and small sprocket would almost hit the frame 1/8 washer seemed to fix it

Got the bike all finished added a older rack to the rear and lights to it, rides like new all gears tuned in, the new spring gell seat was the key, I use the bike on road not trails so spring seat works well.

Bump for advice... Have same bike. Needing bb measurements and such. I know it's an ancient thread but if any have pics of similar (any M model pre disc?) For motivation/input would be appreciated. This build I pro.ise to share at the end lol

How much did you end up spending?

From my thread

Shimano ES51 68x113 Bottom Bracket (the 121 measured a 54mm Chainline)

Thank you.

Update?
 

I have the same model...how did this turn out? I'm just beginning the process of rebuilding mine...

This is a thread from 2009 and I don't think any of these people have been active on the forums anytime recently. I would at most overhaul your bike and replace anything if it absolutely needs it and you really want to keep this bike. Unfortunately a bike from the 9 speed era still running 7 speed Altus/Tourney components and things like quill stems is not really worth a ton of money and you would be better off saving that money for either a hybrid or if you are mountain biking a proper mountain bike with a decent fork that uses air instead of cheap coils.