Pfft, who needs a 1x9 when you can have a...
05-27-09, 06:55 PM
#1
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Pfft, who needs a 1x9 when you can have a...
1/3. Heck, even went with a friction shifter.
Gearing is 11-14-16.
Gearing is 11-14-16.
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05-27-09, 06:59 PM
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The friction shifter works good for what I need it to.
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05-27-09, 07:38 PM
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11-14-16
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05-27-09, 07:55 PM
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What is the front chainring? I ride around 34 front to 18ish in the back and that is a perfect compromise between accel and top speed since I ride dirt trails.
05-27-09, 07:57 PM
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32 up front.
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05-27-09, 08:13 PM
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Was late in the day, so I tested it out in a local park that does have some trails.
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05-27-09, 08:20 PM
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Very nice, man. I saw one of these except they used a front rapid-fire shifter with different spacing and an older 8spd chain.
Looks like dang near exactly what I need. (except mine will require ISCG, and a 2speed planetary tranny)
Looks like dang near exactly what I need. (except mine will require ISCG, and a 2speed planetary tranny)
05-28-09, 10:55 AM
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A few extremely important points:
-Friction is the way to go, unless you can find some sort of 3speed triggers with the right spacing. I'd say that friction is the best way to go with this exercise.
-Thank gawd you have a long-cage rear derailer, to handle that massive chainwrap situation.
And one shrewd question:
-What'd you use to space the hub out?
-=rob
-Friction is the way to go, unless you can find some sort of 3speed triggers with the right spacing. I'd say that friction is the best way to go with this exercise.
-Thank gawd you have a long-cage rear derailer, to handle that massive chainwrap situation.
And one shrewd question:
-What'd you use to space the hub out?
-=rob
05-28-09, 12:49 PM
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If you have cassette spacers, you can space the cogs however you like. Therefore, a front trigger would work quite well.
Dannihilator...the only reason for me to go less than 1x9 would be to get rid of the blasted silly RD. (my own personal reasons) I think the RD on a bike is like a man walking into battle with his bare sack flapping in the breeze. The weak link.
So my ideal sub-1x9 would be a Sturmey Archer internal 3-speed, Hammershmidt, or a flat out singlespeed (or Dingle). My opinion is "if you're going to have a dished cassette hub, rear derailleur, shifter, and cable...what are you losing by having 8-9 gears back there versus 3? You're not saving any noticeable weight, and you're not really alleviating any "which gear to use" confusion. (again...IMO)
Still my own stinky opinion. I'm sure you (and that other 1x3 builder) have your own reasons that I can respect...and the friction shifter is a cool choice for the application.
Dannihilator...the only reason for me to go less than 1x9 would be to get rid of the blasted silly RD. (my own personal reasons) I think the RD on a bike is like a man walking into battle with his bare sack flapping in the breeze. The weak link.
So my ideal sub-1x9 would be a Sturmey Archer internal 3-speed, Hammershmidt, or a flat out singlespeed (or Dingle). My opinion is "if you're going to have a dished cassette hub, rear derailleur, shifter, and cable...what are you losing by having 8-9 gears back there versus 3? You're not saving any noticeable weight, and you're not really alleviating any "which gear to use" confusion. (again...IMO)
Still my own stinky opinion. I'm sure you (and that other 1x3 builder) have your own reasons that I can respect...and the friction shifter is a cool choice for the application.
Last edited by ed; 05-28-09 at 12:53 PM.
05-28-09, 06:38 PM
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I put a trigger on it today and locked out what I didn't want
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05-28-09, 07:45 PM
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05-28-09, 07:52 PM
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Bicycle Repair Man !!!
I ran a 4 speed some years ago and really liked it... I needed a gear to get me to the trails or for flat fast CX, a few for 90% of the tougher trails and a decent bailout for when things got vertical.
Keeping the 4 speed clean was also very easy as the cogs were spaced wider which left room for water and crud to wash out.
Keeping the 4 speed clean was also very easy as the cogs were spaced wider which left room for water and crud to wash out.
05-28-09, 08:17 PM
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i wanted to do a hammerschmidt on my single speed really bad, its unfortunate that i dont have the disc tabs, a simplistic reliable 2 speed would be the bees knees.
05-28-09, 08:40 PM
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Triggers can work. If you limit the derailleur screw anyways, you won't get as many clicks in the shifter as the cable will be stopped from moving farther. As long a syou're still using, say, 9 speed cogs from a cassette with a 9speed shifter, the cable pull will still be the right amount with each click to move to the next cog.
But I agree, friction works pretty well for this too.
05-28-09, 08:49 PM
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that is pretty cool looking, I'd build one , but I'd need the 3 gears on the other end of the cassette. Oh and a dork disc..
seriously running a short cage derailleur or roadie derailleur would be sweet too.
seriously running a short cage derailleur or roadie derailleur would be sweet too.
05-28-09, 09:56 PM
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"I think the RD on a bike is like a man walking into battle with his bare sack flapping in the breeze. The weak link".
LOL..that was priceless Chel! Maybe your Viking gene gave you that inspiration...or too many Mel Gibson or Brad Pitt movies?
LOL..that was priceless Chel! Maybe your Viking gene gave you that inspiration...or too many Mel Gibson or Brad Pitt movies?
05-29-09, 08:21 PM
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I don't understand. You can't just space the cogs farther apart: the chain would simply drop between them. Or did you mean something else?
Triggers can work. If you limit the derailleur screw anyways, you won't get as many clicks in the shifter as the cable will be stopped from moving farther. As long a syou're still using, say, 9 speed cogs from a cassette with a 9speed shifter, the cable pull will still be the right amount with each click to move to the next cog.
But I agree, friction works pretty well for this too.
Triggers can work. If you limit the derailleur screw anyways, you won't get as many clicks in the shifter as the cable will be stopped from moving farther. As long a syou're still using, say, 9 speed cogs from a cassette with a 9speed shifter, the cable pull will still be the right amount with each click to move to the next cog.
But I agree, friction works pretty well for this too.
Does the chain slip between your chainrings?
If you notice...the distance from chainring to chainring on the front is approx 6mm.
The distance from gear to gear on a 9spd cassette is around 4mm.
When using a 3-speed "front shifter" on a 3spd setup in the rear, you're going to have to shim the gears an extra 2mm apart to be able to get proper shifting. (unless the pull is different on the shifter ie...1:1 vs. 2:1...then you'd just have to experiment on how a front shifter operates a rear derailleur to see how much distance each gear pulls)
05-30-09, 09:16 PM
#23
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Dirt Jumper
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05-30-09, 10:04 PM
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Does the chain slip between your chainrings?
If you notice...the distance from chainring to chainring on the front is approx 6mm.
The distance from gear to gear on a 9spd cassette is around 4mm.
When using a 3-speed "front shifter" on a 3spd setup in the rear, you're going to have to shim the gears an extra 2mm apart to be able to get proper shifting. (unless the pull is different on the shifter ie...1:1 vs. 2:1...then you'd just have to experiment on how a front shifter operates a rear derailleur to see how much distance each gear pulls)
If you notice...the distance from chainring to chainring on the front is approx 6mm.
The distance from gear to gear on a 9spd cassette is around 4mm.
When using a 3-speed "front shifter" on a 3spd setup in the rear, you're going to have to shim the gears an extra 2mm apart to be able to get proper shifting. (unless the pull is different on the shifter ie...1:1 vs. 2:1...then you'd just have to experiment on how a front shifter operates a rear derailleur to see how much distance each gear pulls)
No?
05-30-09, 10:11 PM
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