To be honest, I did read you other post. Be less concerned about components. Drive train is cheap. Frame and fork are not. When I look at bikes I don't even care what the drive train is until I find out if the frame is strong and the fork won't break haha

Maelstrom,

thnx for the quick reply, but again thats where I'm stuck. I can't seem to find much definative info on this bike (the Haro that is). The quality and strength of the frame is a big mystery to me, the fork, a Rock shox duke XC I am pretty confident in, as I said I will NOT get crazy with the free riding so doubt I'd be breaking anything up on either but efficency in my effort to power output is important as long as I know its not total garbage. I assume you were referring to the Trek's drivetrain as cheap? I am laening hard toward that Haro, I just wish I knew someone who had one.

Ty

Oh cheap to upgrade, y I see your point. Still in the dark tho.

Ty

FWIW-

I picked up a great closeout deal (<50% of list) on a Haro V-3 (2003) early this spring to try MTBing, and it's the best buy I've made in years. I ride around 50% urban asphalt/50% intermediate trails, and with a tire swap (OE WTB Velociraptors for IRC Mythos XC Slicks) this bike is about perfect for my riding. It's a solid entry-level hardtail MTB with Deore-class drivetrain, Alex DM 18 rims, and a strong T-6 6061 aluminum frame. The Pro-Max V-brakes are just OK, and I plan to replace them with Avid SD-7's soon. Some don't care for the RockShox Judy TT fork (2004's have a Mannitou), but so far it's worked fine for me (at 175lbs). The geometry of the stock V-3 is a bit upright, and I recently replaced the stock 40-degree stem with an Easton EA-70 (10 degree). After almost a full season of riding 4+ days/week, I can honestly say I would buy another Haro in a NY minute!