strip away lubricant b4 lube?
09-29-09, 10:19 AM
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strip away lubricant b4 lube?
I want to lubricate the chain with another brand lube. Can I strip away any existing lubricant with wd-40 before lubricate the chain?
09-29-09, 10:34 AM
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What specific lubes are you talking about?
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"I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.
"I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.
09-29-09, 11:29 AM
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OK. Yeah, WD40 is probably alright as a solvent, although mineral spirits will likely work a little better at cleaning the old lube away.
The reason that I asked about the specific lube is that some folks end up using a Teflon or wax-based product such as White Lightning, which are significantly different than the solvent-based 'oily' types in that they contain solids which kind of build up on the chain. I have always tried to thoroughly clean/strip the chain when going to or coming from the solids type.
If you are currently using a generic oil/lube then I don't think it will be very critical to strip the old lube. Clean, then apply the new lube by flooding the chain with it, then use like a terry rag to wipe off all the excess that you can. The lubes needs to only be inside the moving parts of the chain- a thin film on the outside surface(s) is sufficient to help keep it free of rust.
Chain lube discussions here are never-ending, but suffice it to say that a clean and lubed chain is all you need. Lube it as often as you see fit and you're golden. My personal choice is ProGold. https://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html
There is no need to obsess about a clean chain, either. For MTB's in the dirt, replace the chain maybe every 1-2 thousand miles or when it shows .75% wear. Replacing chains is cheaper than replacing chainrings/cassettes- it will help the drivetrain to last longer.
If you just can't help yourself and have to have the cleanest, best lubricated chain possible, try this cleaning system:https://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
The reason that I asked about the specific lube is that some folks end up using a Teflon or wax-based product such as White Lightning, which are significantly different than the solvent-based 'oily' types in that they contain solids which kind of build up on the chain. I have always tried to thoroughly clean/strip the chain when going to or coming from the solids type.
If you are currently using a generic oil/lube then I don't think it will be very critical to strip the old lube. Clean, then apply the new lube by flooding the chain with it, then use like a terry rag to wipe off all the excess that you can. The lubes needs to only be inside the moving parts of the chain- a thin film on the outside surface(s) is sufficient to help keep it free of rust.
Chain lube discussions here are never-ending, but suffice it to say that a clean and lubed chain is all you need. Lube it as often as you see fit and you're golden. My personal choice is ProGold. https://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html
There is no need to obsess about a clean chain, either. For MTB's in the dirt, replace the chain maybe every 1-2 thousand miles or when it shows .75% wear. Replacing chains is cheaper than replacing chainrings/cassettes- it will help the drivetrain to last longer.
If you just can't help yourself and have to have the cleanest, best lubricated chain possible, try this cleaning system:https://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
__________________
"I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.
"I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.
09-29-09, 07:48 PM
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better yet, why don't you throw the chain in a sock and wash in your washing machine and then lay the chain in bed next to you for the night
mx
09-29-09, 07:57 PM
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My chain gets the bed, and I sleep on the couch.
