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Roadie new to Mountian Biking.. Need help

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Roadie new to Mountian Biking.. Need help

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Old 10-15-09, 06:28 PM
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BestSportEver
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Roadie new to Mountian Biking.. Need help

I am going to give Mountain Biking a try this winter. I have a very expensive road bike, but don't want to spend the same rediculous amount on a bike that I will probably only use for two to three months a year. Can I get a good Mtn. Bike for $550-$850? I have $1k to spend, but that must include pedals and shoes.
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Old 10-15-09, 06:38 PM
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that will get you a great starter bike, with similar comonent level to tiagra. all of the bike companies will have bikes in that price range the only major difference is geometry. all the new bikes in your price range will be around 30+lbs so if you want a lighter bike you will want to look at the used market.
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Old 10-15-09, 06:57 PM
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You're in luck dood!

Go to your local Specialized dealer and look at a 2008-2009 closeout Rockhopper and Hardrock.

Ride a few, see what you like.
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Old 10-15-09, 07:04 PM
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Seeing as I no nothing about Mtn Bikes, I was in one of the local and very very small bike stores and they had a Shwinn 405 for $580. Would that be a good starter or should I go with a more respected brand. I am really partial to Giant bikes as I own three already.
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Old 10-15-09, 07:08 PM
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Giant fan, huh? Look for a closeout XtC hardtail, closeout Yukon FX FS, or new Yukon hardtail. Also keep in mind that a given company's road bike might be perfect for you, but their mountain bike might not fit you quite as well. Test ride, test ride, test ride!
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Old 10-15-09, 07:13 PM
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Schwinn...

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Old 10-15-09, 10:35 PM
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This may help you http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...light=official
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Old 10-16-09, 06:15 AM
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These are a good place to start:

Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc $770
Giant XTC2 $870
Kona Blast $750
Gary Fisher Marlin $860
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Old 10-16-09, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Zephyr11 View Post
Giant fan, huh? Look for a closeout XtC hardtail, closeout Yukon FX FS, or new Yukon hardtail. Also keep in mind that a given company's road bike might be perfect for you, but their mountain bike might not fit you quite as well. Test ride, test ride, test ride!
Yes definitely, I’ve seen some XTC two’s around 600-700 on closeout. Giant offers great value in mountain bikes. Particularly in that price range, I think you’ll get a lot more from Giant than from Specialized, Trek or Cannondale. If you want to go a little cheaper, the Rincon and Yukon are also nice. Those are all cross-country bikes. If you plan to take it off some larger drop-offs or over some jumps, check out the Brass. I really like the Jamis Durango, and Dakota sport in that price range too.

Also, I haven’t priced road pedals and shoes, but you can get a very functional mountain Shoe/pedal combo for about $150. So I wouldn’t budget for a $350 expenditure on those.
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/173...wter-Black.htm
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/183...-MTB-Shoes.htm
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Old 10-16-09, 08:48 AM
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My shoes were about $60 and the pedals were less than $50.
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Old 10-16-09, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by fiatjeepdriver View Post
that will get you a great starter bike, with similar comonent level to tiagra. all of the bike companies will have bikes in that price range the only major difference is geometry. all the new bikes in your price range will be around 30+lbs so if you want a lighter bike you will want to look at the used market.
A bit more than a starter bike. I just purchased an '09 Trek 6000 and couldn't really ask for more bike short of CF. The 6000 shares the same Al frame as the higher end Treks and frankly the component level of the 6000 is fine. OP...fit as with road bikes is king. I am a dedicated roadie who moved to a dirt road close to a peagravel path. I really like the mountain bike thing. Fun for a change of pace and I will ride through the winter on sunny quiet days.
Best tip I can give being a fit fanatic as that is the only recipe to comfort and speed. The top tube of your mountain bike should be 3-6 cm longer than your road bike for comparable length stem. I am still dialing in the fit on my mountain bike...bar backsweep affects cockpit length which you can tune with stem length. I am 6'1" and ride a 19.5" Trek 6000 and it fits about perfect with 620mm top tube. My carbon fiber roadbike has a 57.5cm eff. top tube length. Some may wonder why this is. It is less about your posture than the shape of the bars. I find I like to assume a similar 45 deg. back angle nominally on both bikes. You want your road bike hood position to closely approximate your handlebar grip position on your mountain bike. On your mountain bike, your grip ends sweep back of the stem clamp centerline and on a road bike the hoods are in front of the stem clamp. That accounts for the nominal difference in effective top tube length.
Hope that helps.
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Old 10-16-09, 04:23 PM
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When you say 3 - 5cm longer top tube, are you talking actual or virtual top tube?
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Old 10-16-09, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wheeldeal View Post
When you say 3 - 5cm longer top tube, are you talking actual or virtual top tube?
Actual depends on the slope of the top tube so not a good comparison.
I don't really like the term virtual. I prefer effective which means horizontal distance from center of seat post to center of top of steerer.
So my answer would be effective.
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Old 10-16-09, 05:14 PM
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I prefer reach and stack .
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Old 10-16-09, 05:25 PM
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Camp, for some reason.....reasons I can't explain, I feel more upright on my hardtail compared to my road bike even though my road bike has a shorter top tube.

Road bike top tube 55.5cm (traditional frame)
Mountain bike effective top tube (per the website) is 59cm

The handlebar on the hardtail doesn't bend back towards me. Yet, I feel much more comfortable (upright on the mountain bike).

I have a 90mm stem on the road bike
I have a 110mm stem on the hardtail

Weird, huh?
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Old 10-16-09, 05:54 PM
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But you're holding the hoods (or drops) on your road bike, aren't you? They extend beyond the stem, whereas mountain bike bars do not. Also, where are your bars in comparison to your saddle on your road bike, as compared to on you mountain bike? Of course you'll be more upright if your bars are higher. Finally, seat tube angle will effect this, and your mountain bike is probably more slack than your road bike. A more slack seat tube angle moves your entire top tube backwards and the bars closer to you, so unless you're sitting down, the reach shortens.
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Old 10-16-09, 06:05 PM
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I am a roadie too but be very careful about saying that you only going to mountain bike for a few months out of the year. Mountain biking is very addictive (same as the road). I thought the same thing, but after riding an old low-end mountain bike for a couple of rides, I was hooked and decided I needed a little more than that. I just recently picked up a 2008 Giant Trace for about $1200. This is a good time of year to buy. I also have 4 Giant bikes. I really like the Trace. You will really enjoy it no matter what bike you are on!
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Old 10-16-09, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Zephyr11 View Post
But you're holding the hoods (or drops) on your road bike, aren't you? They extend beyond the stem, whereas mountain bike bars do not. Also, where are your bars in comparison to your saddle on your road bike, as compared to on you mountain bike? Of course you'll be more upright if your bars are higher. Finally, seat tube angle will effect this, and your mountain bike is probably more slack than your road bike. A more slack seat tube angle moves your entire top tube backwards and the bars closer to you, so unless you're sitting down, the reach shortens.
I ride the "bend" 90% of the time. I don't have hoods on my road bike. But I understand the point you're trying to make. The bends probably stick out an inch past the stem.

My saddle to bar drop is about 2cm on the road bike. My hardtail's handlebars are level with the saddle (no drop).

I don't understand the STA explanation. You're correct to assume my hardtail having a slacker STA compared to my road bike.

Hardtail STA = 73.5
Roadbike STA = 74

Hardtail HTA = 71.5
Roadbike HTA = 72

Is 0.5 degrees going to make that much of a difference?
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Old 10-17-09, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dminor View Post
I prefer reach and stack .
Granted, for mountain bikes, BB to bar position matters for out of the saddle riding, but I prefer seat tube to top tube horizontal and saddle to bar drop dimensions. With stack the frame can have either a bolt upright or laid back sta which will affect reach.
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Old 10-17-09, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by wheeldeal View Post
Camp, for some reason.....reasons I can't explain, I feel more upright on my hardtail compared to my road bike even though my road bike has a shorter top tube.

Road bike top tube 55.5cm (traditional frame)
Mountain bike effective top tube (per the website) is 59cm

The handlebar on the hardtail doesn't bend back towards me. Yet, I feel much more comfortable (upright on the mountain bike).

I have a 90mm stem on the road bike
I have a 110mm stem on the hardtail

Weird, huh?
You may consider taking a profile picture or vid with you on both bikes and compare. Don't think you are that far off with your dimensions between the two. I suspect you have more drop on your roadbike from saddle to bars which is common and why you feel more comfortable ie upright on your mountain bike. FWIW, more comfortable doesn't have to be synonomous with more upright. It isn't for me. Generally say a 30 deg torso angle or more upright means your arms are holding up your torso and are in more compression than say a more natural 45 deg angle you may assume on the hoods of your road bike. This is because most of us at some point enlist our hip flexors and core to hold up our torso when riding. This angle varies from rider to rider. If you aren't near this angle then your arms are holding up your torso which means tension in your neck and shoulders which can lead to pain. Further more upright puts more pressure on your sit bones and pile drives your spine on rough surfaces. For me, closer to a road bike position is most comfortable on my mountain bike.
Cheers.
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Old 10-17-09, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by HillSlug View Post
I am a roadie too but be very careful about saying that you only going to mountain bike for a few months out of the year. Mountain biking is very addictive (same as the road). I thought the same thing, but after riding an old low-end mountain bike for a couple of rides, I was hooked and decided I needed a little more than that. I just recently picked up a 2008 Giant Trace for about $1200. This is a good time of year to buy. I also have 4 Giant bikes. I really like the Trace. You will really enjoy it no matter what bike you are on!
Agree as well. There is no better and both have their appeal. The thing I like about mountain biking in the fall in cold weather, is the wind is cut by the trees and speeds are a bit reduced so its warmer. The color changes this time of year are beautiful. I am a speed junkie and will always love road biking but this mountain bike thing is a lot of fun.
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Old 10-17-09, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by wheeldeal View Post
I ride the "bend" 90% of the time. I don't have hoods on my road bike. But I understand the point you're trying to make. The bends probably stick out an inch past the stem.

My saddle to bar drop is about 2cm on the road bike. My hardtail's handlebars are level with the saddle (no drop).

I don't understand the STA explanation. You're correct to assume my hardtail having a slacker STA compared to my road bike.

Hardtail STA = 73.5
Roadbike STA = 74

Hardtail HTA = 71.5
Roadbike HTA = 72

Is 0.5 degrees going to make that much of a difference?
It matters on a couple of levels. The farther behind the spindle you are, the more you can use the leverage of the pedals to keep weight off your hands. Plus your setback affects fore aft weight distribution on the tire contact patches for handling. My bikes are actually reversed. The sta on my road bike is 72.5 deg and on my mtb 73.0 deg. Ideally, I would like them both the same. I have long femurs and prefer more set back. This can also be achieved with a greater setback seat post.
If you do the trig, 0.5 deg = .25" for a 30 inch seat height...what I ride from BB to top of saddle.
Not alot really and easily compensated as mentioned with a more setback seatpost if desired. If you ride too forward you will lose leverage back against the pedals causing you to fall more into the bars translating to more pressure on your wrists and shoulders. It also affects effective top tube length.
Given the same top tube length spec's for two frames, the bike with the more laid back seat tube angle will have the shorter reach as you adjust your fore aft position on either bike.
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Old 10-17-09, 07:49 AM
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you guys are WAY off topic. OP just wants a bike. not even discussing fit yet haha. anyways, carry on.
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Old 10-17-09, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wheeldeal View Post
I don't understand the STA explanation. You're correct to assume my hardtail having a slacker STA compared to my road bike.

Hardtail STA = 73.5
Roadbike STA = 74

Hardtail HTA = 71.5
Roadbike HTA = 72
http://www.leelikesbikes.com/how-sea...-location.html

Explanation and diagram. Also read dminor's link.
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Old 10-24-09, 10:33 AM
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Thanks for all the input. After several days of haggling with the LBS, I got the Giant XTC Alliance for $1500. I know I said I was going to spend less, but I couldn't ignore my purchasing motto, "Buy cheap and often, or buy once." I am going for my first trail ride tomorrow and can't wait.
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