how do i know when disc brake pads needs to be replaced?
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Then it's your pads. Just check them, it only takes 30secs to remove your front tire.
#7
Still kicking.
Pads should be replaced once a year and in some people' cases around here a couple of times(at least.)
Hydros or mechanicals?
Hydros or mechanicals?
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#11
Still kicking.
Got to be careful with the disc brakes to replace the pads when the pad area itself is thinner than the thickness of the end of a flat bladed screwdriver. Past that point you stand the chance of damaging the calipers.
Edit: Yes I would say after 861 miles that it would be time to replace the pads.
Edit: Yes I would say after 861 miles that it would be time to replace the pads.
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got to be careful with the disc brakes to replace the pads when the pad area itself is thinner than the thickness of the end of a flat bladed screwdriver. Past that point you stand the chance of damaging the calipers.
Edit: Yes i would say after 861 miles that it would be time to replace the pads.
Edit: Yes i would say after 861 miles that it would be time to replace the pads.
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Just put new pads in the front for avid juicy 5's
I don't get it, thought they'd be tighter and more responsive but they are just about the same
New disc, and new pads, hydraulic
I don't get it, thought they'd be tighter and more responsive but they are just about the same
New disc, and new pads, hydraulic
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That's why I asked if it was all set properly, if you're yanking and not getting enough braking force it could just be that it's gripping too loosely...
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You said you have Avid 5 brakes. Assuming Avid Juicy 5's or Code 5's you may have air in the hydraulic lines which will require bleeding.
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i got the avid juicy 5's, no brake lines were opened which youd think would mean no air could get into them
i suppose it could be due to not cleaning the rotor before installing, forgot to do that, doh..
its moreso that the lever depresses farther than the bite not being good
tried adjusting the calipers (didnt touch the lever adjustments as they havent been touched to begin with)
might just leave it
but then again, brake fluid is hygroscopic (??) and can get moisture in it over time
which really effects braking
at least on cars
i suppose it could be due to not cleaning the rotor before installing, forgot to do that, doh..

its moreso that the lever depresses farther than the bite not being good
tried adjusting the calipers (didnt touch the lever adjustments as they havent been touched to begin with)
might just leave it
but then again, brake fluid is hygroscopic (??) and can get moisture in it over time
which really effects braking
at least on cars
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You should bleed your brakes. Being able to pull the lever and not get any braking power (with clean pads and rotors) means that the problem may be a lack of fluid, or air bubbles in the line.
Bleed kits aren't terribly expensive, and it's easy to do it yourself.
Try not to touch the pads / rotors with your hands. You really shouldn't be getting any oils on these parts.
Bleed kits aren't terribly expensive, and it's easy to do it yourself.
Try not to touch the pads / rotors with your hands. You really shouldn't be getting any oils on these parts.
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bleeding would probably be the next step to take in trying to get the brakes how you like them. One thing to also remember is that there is a little burn in period for the pads when they are first installed. The braking right away won't be quite as good as after they have been broken in.
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I replaced mine when I hit the tree.....
I get new ones every season....at 260lbs.....i HAVE to
I get new ones every season....at 260lbs.....i HAVE to
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Well said!