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How to shave weight off my porker

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How to shave weight off my porker

Old 05-10-10, 12:31 AM
  #1  
austin-rider
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How to shave weight off my porker

I have an old Cannondale M400 bike that is adequate as a suburban recreational bike. It rides well, and I like the upright position its geometry provides.

But I have issue with the weight. I didn't weigh it, but compared to riding my 1994 Kona Lava Dome, it feels like a clunker. The Kona is so much lighter and quicker than the Cannondale, although both have rigid forks.

I don't want to sell the Cannondale because I like the upright position for leisurely rides. However, I do want to lighten it. I won't use it for serious off-road riding. It will probably be used for paved trails or the occasional hard pack.

Any suggestions on how to lighten this bike? It has IRC Piranha Pro tires, all STX front and rear derailleurs, rapidfire shifters, Alivio cantilever brakes. Not sure what the crankset is, but probably STX.

I'm thinking lighter wheels, lighter tires (I'll be putting slicks on it). I could take off the Cannondale rack, but it really belongs on there I think. How about the stem, handlebars, crankset?

Here is a pic. Thanks for your input.

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Old 05-10-10, 12:42 AM
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A rigid seatpost could save a pound or so.
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Old 05-10-10, 02:19 AM
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i used to ride and still own the frame of a kona uh somethin. anyway it's the same bike. oh yeah fire mountain. like a lava dome or cinder cone.



that bike was not that expensive to build and weighed like 24 or 25 pounds. for what looks like an average xc frame, this thing is pretty versatlie and performs. and its really light. i don't know how much lighter than that cannondale but a full pound wouldnt be out of the question.

you like the cdale tho so here's the bang for the buck in lightness: a) 117/xt wheelset for 100 dollars could potentially be good for years. top with two of the newer tubeless ready tires and light tubes. i think even begginner riders would be hard pressed not to feel a serious difference if the wheels where tested back to back.

the other major light weight piece on that kona was the turbine lp triple cranks. bomb cranks. light stiff, and theire on the old botton brackets but those are all of 25 a piece. or get the square taper version if you want to pick from some nicer bbs. used sets go for 75-100 and as along as tnone of the surfaces are scarred up then then should have much life in them. i just got back my trusty old pair of isis turbines back from a theft and promptly downgraded from the saint set on my bike. ive had those cranks for 7 years or so and ridden the crap out of em on 4 bikes and i just trust them. stiff, reliable, and really so light that i cant justify spending a bunch for a supposed upgrade. even if it means foregoing the sweet xbb and choice of 4 bolt rings.
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Old 05-10-10, 01:23 PM
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great thread title.
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Old 05-10-10, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by yak View Post
great thread title.
You don't want to know the mental image it's giving me.
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Old 05-11-10, 06:12 AM
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seat post, bars, rims, crank and fork......
but if I did all those things, I'd be looking at a lighter bike all together
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Old 05-11-10, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Greyryder View Post
You don't want to know the mental image it's giving me.
Please, get your mind out of the gutter.
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Old 05-11-10, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Greyryder View Post
You don't want to know the mental image it's giving me.
You too?
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Old 05-11-10, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by acpeeps View Post
seat post, bars, rims, crank and fork......
but if I did all those things, I'd be looking at a lighter bike all together
I may do the handlebars, seatpost, and crankset (the Alivio crankset I read was no good anyway) - and that will be it. Can't be too much.

It could be something besides the weight. Basically, when I pedal there seems to be much more effort required than with the Kona. Chain? Crankset? Thanks.
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Old 05-11-10, 03:43 PM
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If the hubs are in bad shape you could feel a drag. Knobby tires on road are a drag. If the brakes are misadjusted, you could feel a drag.

Personally, I would start by putting on some slicks and a non suspension seatpost, and go from there. If that doesn't get you all the way there, and you really want to keep the bike, get a nicer wheelset, that should help a lot. I doubt you'll save enough from cranks and handlebars/stem to be worthwhile without spending far more than the bike is worth.
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Old 05-11-10, 04:13 PM
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I would really talk to your local LBS about what you want to do. Just my opinion, the bike does not warrant all the upgrades. Change out the tires to road slicks would be the first thing I do and see if they makes any difference. Decent wheels, where it would make a difference, are around $350 - 400.

I always look at it like this... it's a "training" vehicle and the weight just help you train. We are only talking a few oz. here and there. Every pound taken off a bike means significant money. Stem, handlebar, crankset - just a few oz unless you are willling to spend some money and even then, different components may not be an option for this bike. The bike was built around 1998 and many of the components are no longer available. Also very hard to find especially good enough to change the weight significantly.

Just put on road slicks. That will make a world of difference.
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Old 05-11-10, 04:14 PM
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Slick tires, as you mentioned. Even a cheapy rigid seatpost will be lighter. A decently lighter seat would be cheap, if you find one that fits your butt.

Around town rider? Do you really need all three rings up front? Run a single ring, and ditch the shifter/derailleur.

Sure, the rack "fits" the bike, but if you don't use the rack, pull it off. You can always put it back on.

IMO, the rest isn't worth buying lighter replacements for, unless something breaks, or unless you ride it all the freaking time and have money burning a hole in your pocket. It's a towny bike. You'll notice a huge difference with lighter/skinnier slick tires than any other change in terms of weight/speed/acceleration.
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Old 05-12-10, 07:56 AM
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Thanks for all the input. I may just sell it.
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