xXx (miniature light with active cooling)
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xXx (miniature light with active cooling)
I'm gonna call this one xXx (or just triple-"X"...ala...Vin Diesel)
I was bored and had nothing to do in the shop b/c I'm outta hex bar and my remaining 3 test hosts for quazzle's L3x board are getting anodized. I still had some 1" square stock left over from an order mishap. The first challenge was chucking up a 4-sided structure in a 3-jaw lathe. Finally got my 20mm hole bored. (set up for a snap ring retainer) This one is a bit different. I wanted to free up the optics a bit b/c I noticed that on my 20mm projects...the O-ring laps over the optics a bit.
I bored a 20mm hole for the board and optics and a 21.5mm hole for the lens and O-ring. The O-ring is a 21mm OD / 19mm ID...so I get a seal directly over the seam. (RIGHTEOUS!!)
Moving on to the rest of the proposed idea...
Not an original idea to say the least...do a search for Rubix or Wall-E on MTBR and you'll see a couple of incredible active cooling designs. I will be using the same thermostat as was used in both of those lights. I have a Sunon 5vDC 25x25x6mm cooling fan on order from Digikey. I also have a 5v DC voltage regulator which I'm still not so sure I need. Can I run a 5vDC fan on a 7.4v LiIon pack safely?
If I really need the vReg...I'll heat shrink it into the power cable, tie it in to the pos/neg and run the 3rd leg up into the thermostat and out to the fan.
Here's the pocket for the thermostat:
I had to do an angled hole that drops out the bottom and then straight back...(kinda like a backward hood scoop)...the wiring will run right over the top of the thermostat and out the back by the fan.
I will be shaving down two opposite corners of the cooling fan to match the contour.
Obviously the reason I'm calling it xXx...the triple Cree emitter board mixed with the "X" pattern of the fins from the back. The body looks like a freakin' chunk until you see how much of it will be fins. It's very lightweight...maybe lighter than the Hex lights. I have two M3 holes drilled and tapped awaiting the cooling fan.
You can see where I stopped finning on the bottom...project on hold until I replace my broken HS 2mm end mill. I was getting impatient and taking off a bit much with the mill. I knew better. I'd be finning this right now instead of just talking about it.:madman:
2 new end mills OTW.
I was bored and had nothing to do in the shop b/c I'm outta hex bar and my remaining 3 test hosts for quazzle's L3x board are getting anodized. I still had some 1" square stock left over from an order mishap. The first challenge was chucking up a 4-sided structure in a 3-jaw lathe. Finally got my 20mm hole bored. (set up for a snap ring retainer) This one is a bit different. I wanted to free up the optics a bit b/c I noticed that on my 20mm projects...the O-ring laps over the optics a bit.
I bored a 20mm hole for the board and optics and a 21.5mm hole for the lens and O-ring. The O-ring is a 21mm OD / 19mm ID...so I get a seal directly over the seam. (RIGHTEOUS!!)
Moving on to the rest of the proposed idea...
Not an original idea to say the least...do a search for Rubix or Wall-E on MTBR and you'll see a couple of incredible active cooling designs. I will be using the same thermostat as was used in both of those lights. I have a Sunon 5vDC 25x25x6mm cooling fan on order from Digikey. I also have a 5v DC voltage regulator which I'm still not so sure I need. Can I run a 5vDC fan on a 7.4v LiIon pack safely?
If I really need the vReg...I'll heat shrink it into the power cable, tie it in to the pos/neg and run the 3rd leg up into the thermostat and out to the fan.
Here's the pocket for the thermostat:
I had to do an angled hole that drops out the bottom and then straight back...(kinda like a backward hood scoop)...the wiring will run right over the top of the thermostat and out the back by the fan.
I will be shaving down two opposite corners of the cooling fan to match the contour.
Obviously the reason I'm calling it xXx...the triple Cree emitter board mixed with the "X" pattern of the fins from the back. The body looks like a freakin' chunk until you see how much of it will be fins. It's very lightweight...maybe lighter than the Hex lights. I have two M3 holes drilled and tapped awaiting the cooling fan.
You can see where I stopped finning on the bottom...project on hold until I replace my broken HS 2mm end mill. I was getting impatient and taking off a bit much with the mill. I knew better. I'd be finning this right now instead of just talking about it.:madman:
2 new end mills OTW.
Last edited by ed; 05-21-10 at 11:27 PM.
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I know it's rough...but they all start out that way...many finishing touches to do...but I will be on hold until I get my 2mm end mills to replace the broken one. Still got some finning to do and fine finish work.
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good job
I question the size though. why are no major manufacturers making lights this small?
I question the size though. why are no major manufacturers making lights this small?
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Don't horse those lil' bitty thangs.
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Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
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This is all just a bunch of fun testing crap to keep my madd scientists skeelz going while the trails are soup.
yah man...no doubt
Tough to say...there are craploads of beamshots with 20mm XP-G / 20mm XP-E setups...probably somewhere between the MagicShine and the Lupine Wilma.
Here is a triple XP-G with narrow Carclo optics:
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Here's a mass produced version that uses an older, dimmer, less efficient version of the LED's:
These will be a 20mm XP-G:
These will be a 20mm XP-G:
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the other question I had is, isn't the "reflective" cone design very important to perceived brightness with light designs as well?
So I was wondering if there is a point of diminishing return with the small size factor before the light shed becomes not so good?
I was wondering if that had a lot to do with the overall dimensions as well?
So I was wondering if there is a point of diminishing return with the small size factor before the light shed becomes not so good?
I was wondering if that had a lot to do with the overall dimensions as well?
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#11
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the other question I had is, isn't the "reflective" cone design very important to perceived brightness with light designs as well?
So I was wondering if there is a point of diminishing return with the small size factor before the light shed becomes not so good?
I was wondering if that had a lot to do with the overall dimensions as well?
So I was wondering if there is a point of diminishing return with the small size factor before the light shed becomes not so good?
I was wondering if that had a lot to do with the overall dimensions as well?
I will probably try to do a triple/quad version with reflectors at some point that are all in a row instead of a circular pattern. This would counter the spotty characteristics of the reflector. Still kinda kills the "small factor" benefits.
Example: A single XP-G "optic" versus reflector:
Carclo Heidi "optics":
Reflector (Ledil regina)
The Heidi optics are basically all flood. The Regina reflector is basically spot with some side spill. Kind of sweet spot right now is a helmet mount XP-E with a bar mount XP-G. The E is a smaller die which gives a tighter beam...the G will be floodier.
triple XP-G (bars)
XP-E (helmet)
Obviously the smaller die gives a nice spot pattern with the micro 20mm optics...but it's a little too tight for shredding singletrack by itself. Mixed with the floodier XPG gives a killer combo. Here's a dual/triple that has one of each:
Hahahaha...I have a plan for a pocket knife with a built-in bicycle at some point.
Last edited by ed; 05-23-10 at 11:17 PM.
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Those are awesome beam shots! If you ever decide to sell these, and the cost is enticing, you can count me in!
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Hahaha...this particular one with the thermostat and cooling fan will be far from enticing, I'm sure. Hours of milling and quite a bit in parts. Heck dude...the light engine alone is $57 shipped from Russia...then you gotta think 2-4 LiIon cells, charger, connections, switch, optics, lens, snap ring, anodizing, mount, hardware...
It ain't gonna be a $750 Lupine fo sho...but it won't be a $100 MagicShine either.
It ain't gonna be a $750 Lupine fo sho...but it won't be a $100 MagicShine either.
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I am doing a cheaper version that should be built next week and I can start testing the heat management. On paper...it looks good, but real life situations can sometimes prove me wrong.
I did get them anodized though:
I did get them anodized though:
Last edited by ed; 05-23-10 at 10:26 PM.
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Well...I sold a housing to someone who wants to build his own. The blue ones are OTW back from the Ano guy. When they get here, I'll begin assembly. I have connectors and battery building stuff OTW too.
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