I Need more Braking power
#1
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I Need more Braking power
As of right now i have Mavric 117 disc 32 hole rims on both the front and back, my hubs are Cannondale Lefty Front, and a Cannondale Fire in the rear (32 hole disc)
My Brakes are Shimano M-525's with M-525 levers, I need more braking power.
what would you guys sugest for a better stopping distance and all out better performing brake setup?
Thanks
Zach
My Brakes are Shimano M-525's with M-525 levers, I need more braking power.
what would you guys sugest for a better stopping distance and all out better performing brake setup?
Thanks
Zach
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agreed, discs, even mechanical will be better than v-brakes. I use the shimano deore mechs and they are great.
Given hydraulic discs are best, but some folks (like me), like to keep things simple
Given hydraulic discs are best, but some folks (like me), like to keep things simple
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I Already HAVE hydrolic disc's i want MORE out of them, should i put more fluid in them?
here... let me show you what i have, you guys must have missed the part where i said
As of right now i have Mavric 117 disc 32 hole rims on both the front and back, my hubs are Cannondale Lefty Front, and a Cannondale Fire in the rear (32 hole disc)
https://zach.unixforce.com/album02
here... let me show you what i have, you guys must have missed the part where i said
As of right now i have Mavric 117 disc 32 hole rims on both the front and back, my hubs are Cannondale Lefty Front, and a Cannondale Fire in the rear (32 hole disc)
https://zach.unixforce.com/album02
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you can get them re-bled so that you have to pull less on the lever to lock up, most brakes you can adjust without bleedding, but some have more adjustment than other. If you want to get really crazy look at the Hope 6 pots (6 pistons per caliper) or even look at hydraulic v brakes.
The v brakes are what lots of trials riders use (however these are either off or locked HARDLY ANY MODULATION). Hell hydro V's are so strong I've seen people crush their rim with them.
The v brakes are what lots of trials riders use (however these are either off or locked HARDLY ANY MODULATION). Hell hydro V's are so strong I've seen people crush their rim with them.
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Yeah, don't use hands to touch the rotors. My discs, (M-475) are REALLY nice. I go at about 30 kmph and stop completely in 30-40 centimeters which I'm good with.
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Switch to EBC Gold pads.
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#9
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Originally Posted by justsomeguy
Your stopping distance is limited by the traction. Your tires and the dirt are the weak links, not the brakes.
It sounds like the pads haven't been bedded properly, the pads and/or rotor have been contaminated, or you have air in the lines and they need to be bled.
It sounds like the pads haven't been bedded properly, the pads and/or rotor have been contaminated, or you have air in the lines and they need to be bled.
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Originally Posted by SuBHuMaN12356
I Already HAVE hydrolic disc's i want MORE out of them, should i put more fluid in them?
here... let me show you what i have, you guys must have missed the part where i said
As of right now i have Mavric 117 disc 32 hole rims on both the front and back, my hubs are Cannondale Lefty Front, and a Cannondale Fire in the rear (32 hole disc)
https://zach.unixforce.com/album02
here... let me show you what i have, you guys must have missed the part where i said
As of right now i have Mavric 117 disc 32 hole rims on both the front and back, my hubs are Cannondale Lefty Front, and a Cannondale Fire in the rear (32 hole disc)
https://zach.unixforce.com/album02
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Originally Posted by koffee brown
A lot of the high end mountain bikes I saw recently for the '05 season had the disc brakes. It seems like carbon and disc brakes are all the rage.
Koffee
Koffee
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The 525's are going to have ok modulation but they're never going to make you happy for maximum braking power. Shimano has decided for whatever reason to go for a lighter/simpler product in a two piston caliper all across the board. You can't really find em anymore but i bought Shimano's XT product from a few years back the M755 series that has a four piston caliper providing both good modulation and decent power braking when you need it.
If you can afford a better braking system and can get ahold of some M755 by chance i'd recommend them, but it may be better to look at a different company altogether. I've had experience with Hayes and they have all the power you want in a brake but they have poor modulation, in other words they are ON-OFF not much inbetween. I've heard that Hopes are great brakes as well, but i have no personal experience with them. Also Magura makes great brakes as well, but like all the companies get the middle to high end brake to get the performance you're looking for, and stay away from plastic/fragile levers (Magura Julie levers for instance).
Good luck.
If you can afford a better braking system and can get ahold of some M755 by chance i'd recommend them, but it may be better to look at a different company altogether. I've had experience with Hayes and they have all the power you want in a brake but they have poor modulation, in other words they are ON-OFF not much inbetween. I've heard that Hopes are great brakes as well, but i have no personal experience with them. Also Magura makes great brakes as well, but like all the companies get the middle to high end brake to get the performance you're looking for, and stay away from plastic/fragile levers (Magura Julie levers for instance).
Good luck.
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Originally Posted by Hopper
Not only the high end bikes have disc brakes now. I have seen some really dodgy K-mart bikes with disc brakes. What they do is chuck them on to make the bike look good, then skimp on the quality of the bike elsewhere.
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shall i just see if i can have my LBS put more fluid in them? and rebleed them? i just got the bike so i dont see why i would need to do that now... should i give them more time to brake in?
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Maybe it's not the brakes, but the technique... remember the braking power goes something like front 60% rear 40%. You already have pretty good hydro discs, it doesn't get a whole lot better than that.
#17
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Originally Posted by luberger
Maybe you need this?
Also If you brakes are bled correctly they should be fine for most uses. If they aren't strong enough try an 8in rotor...33% more power.
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Originally Posted by Maelstrom
I am going with this guy.
Also If you brakes are bled correctly they should be fine for most uses. If they aren't strong enough try an 8in rotor...33% more power.
Also If you brakes are bled correctly they should be fine for most uses. If they aren't strong enough try an 8in rotor...33% more power.
any links to 8 inchers?
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I called my shop.. he told me to clean the rotors with rubbing alc... and 8 inchers are out of the question... he said i dont need them on my bike
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then build up your strenght. Those brakes have fine power. 8in would increase it quite a bit. ... and look at any dh bike or fr bike. They all have 8's.
#22
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Maelstrom remember, he rides a Cannondale Scalpel.
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True enough. I was just pointing in a direction for him to see some 8's. (I don't think I have ever seen a scalpel in person haha)
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Can you make the wheels skid? That's the largest amount of braking you can achieve - if that isn't enough then you need wider tyres to increase the amount of grip you have.
Jonny
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Originally Posted by jonnyweale
Can you make the wheels skid? That's the largest amount of braking you can achieve - if that isn't enough then you need wider tyres to increase the amount of grip you have.
Jonny
Jonny