Your thoughts on shot peened finish, and slipping grips?
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Your thoughts on shot peened finish, and slipping grips?
Why do ALL bike companies use this finish now, when any grip short of silicone or lock ons move and slip from day one? You would think there would be a class action lawsuit already? Sorry, I am just a little ticked off that I had to buy ESI's (at an employee discount, but still pricey) in order to feel safe. Lock on grips are equally as pricey. Can't they polish and paiint a small section of the grip area so the factory grips will stick? It makes me wish for the old days of polished/anodized bars, hehe.
,,,,BD
Wishful thinking rant mode,
This is just a light hearted jab at all the big bike companies for following fashion over safety/reliability. Please don't take it too seriously.

Wishful thinking rant mode,

This is just a light hearted jab at all the big bike companies for following fashion over safety/reliability. Please don't take it too seriously.
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^+1
I got ODI Ruffians for $11
I got ODI Ruffians for $11
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The shot-peened finish is (ostensibly) for the strength of the metal, not fashion.
My RaceFace
Good n Evil grips (not lock-on) barely slipped at all in three years; I changed to North Shore lock-ons because I wanted them. Still have the G & E's....
I WILL say, though, that there IS a difference between "barely slipped at all" and "ABSOLUTELY ROCK SOLID".
My RaceFace

I WILL say, though, that there IS a difference between "barely slipped at all" and "ABSOLUTELY ROCK SOLID".
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https://www.metalimprovement.com/shot_peening.php
Bd, if you absolutely, positively don't want slip, suck it up man and buy lock-ons. Or get a tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive (affectionately called "gorilla snot" where I came from) . . . and be prepared to cut off the grips to remove them.
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Never seen any shot peening on carbon bars! never had any problems with slipping on shot peened alu bars.
For old skool grips, there's always the old skool hairspray method of putting grips on, never had any issues with this bitd
For old skool grips, there's always the old skool hairspray method of putting grips on, never had any issues with this bitd
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Lock-ons aren't that expensive, and after you make the initial investment, you can buy grips without clamps for like $10.
https://www.blueskycycling.com/view_p...eProductSearch
$8 for Sunline Half-Waffles with clamps. Even with shipping, that is dirt cheap. I haven't used Sunlines myself (had such good luck with ODIs that I've seen no reason to change), but you can't beat that price. And D seems to like them (at least enough to take their sponsorship dollars!
).
https://www.blueskycycling.com/view_p...eProductSearch
$8 for Sunline Half-Waffles with clamps. Even with shipping, that is dirt cheap. I haven't used Sunlines myself (had such good luck with ODIs that I've seen no reason to change), but you can't beat that price. And D seems to like them (at least enough to take their sponsorship dollars!

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^^ I would like them even better if they were full-waffle (like old-skool Oury MX grips) but, yeah, I like them. I still have a set on my trailbike. Sunline has a grip for every hand for sure. The logo grips come in thick or thin and the thin is even on the skinny side for my small hands. The next larger is the half-waffle. The un-waffled backside of the grip is a pertty firm rubber compound, so some may not like that the side against the palm is not cushy. They're a great wet/mud grip because of the waffle-side traction though. Next larger is the Big 'S' and even those are not too fat for my hands. They're what I'm running right now on the DH bike - - my favorite so far. I haven't tried the Twisted Waffle yet. The rubber compound is supposed to be firm - - compound borrowed from their MX grips - - but were designed for superior muddy conditions grip. Rubber needed to be firm so all the traction bars/barbs wouldn't fold over or rip off.
The diameters:
Thin logo: 28mm
Thick logo: 33mm
Half-Waffle: 31mm
Twisted Waffle: 31mm
Big “S”: 31.5mm
The diameters:
Thin logo: 28mm
Thick logo: 33mm
Half-Waffle: 31mm
Twisted Waffle: 31mm
Big “S”: 31.5mm
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Just for you [courtesy of SickLines]

BTW, while I'm on a Sunline roll, in answer to the OP's quest, Sunline bars are shot-peened except out at the ends:
[IMG]
[/IMG]

BTW, while I'm on a Sunline roll, in answer to the OP's quest, Sunline bars are shot-peened except out at the ends:
[IMG]

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Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
Last edited by dminor; 03-15-11 at 04:39 PM.
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The sunline bars look pretty slick, and they have at least heard of the problem apparently? As it is in my shop we carry two BIG brands. On all of the shot peened aluminum bar models, you can walk up and spin the grips easily. The higher end models COME with lock ons already installed in both brands.
As for pricey, I was talking about the couple of pairs we stocked at the beginning of the MTB season(Here it's winter). Full shelf price was $25? I tried some spray 3M adhesive, and it stayed wet and sticky. I guess it didn't agree with being shut off from air, and expected to dry.
I have a mid/entry level bike that I plan to start upgrading soon, so the grip and bar suggestions are helpful. For now though my EP'd ESI's ROCK! Super comfy, and are rock solid even on the shot peened bars.
I think the problem is that the bars do not have the smooth surface needed for the adhesive properties of the rubber to take effect. A rough estimation is that there's a tenth of the surface available, the rest of the surface is below the contact of the high spots created by shot peening. Any air between the surface and the grip is grip lost.,,,,BD
As for pricey, I was talking about the couple of pairs we stocked at the beginning of the MTB season(Here it's winter). Full shelf price was $25? I tried some spray 3M adhesive, and it stayed wet and sticky. I guess it didn't agree with being shut off from air, and expected to dry.
I have a mid/entry level bike that I plan to start upgrading soon, so the grip and bar suggestions are helpful. For now though my EP'd ESI's ROCK! Super comfy, and are rock solid even on the shot peened bars.
I think the problem is that the bars do not have the smooth surface needed for the adhesive properties of the rubber to take effect. A rough estimation is that there's a tenth of the surface available, the rest of the surface is below the contact of the high spots created by shot peening. Any air between the surface and the grip is grip lost.,,,,BD
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Last edited by Bikedued; 03-15-11 at 06:21 PM.
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As for pricey, I was talking about the couple of pairs we stocked at the beginning of the MTB season(Here it's winter). Full shelf price was $25? I tried some spray 3M adhesive, and it stayed wet and sticky. I guess it didn't agree with being shut off from air, and expected to dry.
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The grips I am currently using. Rock solid and super comfy on the hands. Made here in the US too!
,,,,BD
https://esigrips.com/

https://esigrips.com/
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TIP: WalMart's $1 rattle cans of all-purpose paint work better than hairspray, are cheaper, too. I WAS going to use the clearcoat, but they stopped selling it here. Black works well. Coat the inside of the grip until it drips out, push 'em on, wait about a half-hour (at least, that's good time for US.) I use spray paint on all the bikes I have to maintain (except mine); 3 kids and 2 other adults.