Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Mountain Biking
Reload this Page >

Painting frame advice

Search
Notices
Mountain Biking Mountain biking is one of the fastest growing sports in the world. Check out this forum to discuss the latest tips, tricks, gear and equipment in the world of mountain biking.

Painting frame advice

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-25-11, 09:40 PM
  #1  
Road, XC and Cross
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 312

Bikes: Motobecane Outcast 29er, Motobecane Fantom Comp, Motobecane Fantom CX and Fuji 2.0 acr

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Painting frame advice

I'm going to paint the frame on my SS 29er here soon. Trouble is... I don't know what color(s) and what kind of paint. I have the equipment (gun, air compressor, thinner and mixing cups) and experience to spray auto paint from my local auto paint shop. They have PPG which is pretty much the best stuff. I can do base/clear or single stage which is easier. Or I can go the aerosol route. I'd sand it down, prep it with alcohol, prime it then do whatever. I just don't know if it's worth the trouble to go the spray gun route. I want to go aerosol but don't know if it'll work out in the end. Any experience doing either way?

As far as colors... I was thinking baby blue frame with a orange fork (look up gulf race car on google), military green with some white stars, a deep purple (maybe a lime green fork?), lime green (maybe a purple fork?), or a flat black. Any suggestions? Or opinions?
mtb_man_14 is offline  
Old 06-25-11, 09:44 PM
  #2  
.
 
ed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Summit of Lee
Posts: 10,939

Bikes: Hecklah

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Why would you ask other people what color to paint your bike?
ed is offline  
Old 06-25-11, 09:49 PM
  #3  
Road, XC and Cross
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 312

Bikes: Motobecane Outcast 29er, Motobecane Fantom Comp, Motobecane Fantom CX and Fuji 2.0 acr

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Because I cant make up my own mind. Every color I listed sounds equally pleasing.
mtb_man_14 is offline  
Old 06-25-11, 10:03 PM
  #4  
Road, XC and Cross
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 312

Bikes: Motobecane Outcast 29er, Motobecane Fantom Comp, Motobecane Fantom CX and Fuji 2.0 acr

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Plus some colors are harder to spray than others. Or some won't turn out right with aerosol.
mtb_man_14 is offline  
Old 06-25-11, 11:57 PM
  #5  
Pint-Sized Gnar Shredder
 
Zephyr11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Somewhere between heaven and hell
Posts: 3,549

Bikes: '09 Jamis Komodo, '09 Mirraco Blend One, '08 Cervelo P2C, '08 Specialized Ruby Elite, '07 Yeti AS-R SL, '07 DMR Drone

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts

Paint it to look just like that.
Zephyr11 is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 01:29 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
commo_soulja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: C-Ville
Posts: 1,251

Bikes: are fun to ride

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked 35 Times in 23 Posts
The gulf racing scheme looks well, "racy". Baby blue base with orange panels on down and seat tubes. Throw in a a round "6" number plate and you'll have racy goodness.

Sorry, don't have any technical painting comments. I let professionals powdercoat my last frame.
commo_soulja is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 06:49 AM
  #7  
dont make me get the belt
 
scyclops's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeastern U.S.
Posts: 510
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I see no problem with the rattle can approach, I've done it before and as long as you use a good primer it seems to hold up ok.
Purple and black sounds good.
scyclops is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 07:57 AM
  #8  
Road, XC and Cross
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 312

Bikes: Motobecane Outcast 29er, Motobecane Fantom Comp, Motobecane Fantom CX and Fuji 2.0 acr

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by scyclops
I see no problem with the rattle can approach, I've done it before and as long as you use a good primer it seems to hold up ok.
Even if it does start to chip, it should be simple enough to fix. Don't have to re-mix the paint and I'd hope colors in the rattle cans are rather consistant. I guess I'll go raid the duplicolor department >
mtb_man_14 is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 08:44 AM
  #9  
dont make me get the belt
 
scyclops's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeastern U.S.
Posts: 510
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
IME the secret to a good rattle-can result is to let it cure for about a week before you start the build.
scyclops is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 08:57 AM
  #10  
Road, XC and Cross
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 312

Bikes: Motobecane Outcast 29er, Motobecane Fantom Comp, Motobecane Fantom CX and Fuji 2.0 acr

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cool. The other thing I wanted to ask you is what brand of spray did you use and many cans did you go through? I have a 17" 29er frame and fork to do.
mtb_man_14 is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 09:16 AM
  #11  
dont make me get the belt
 
scyclops's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeastern U.S.
Posts: 510
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
IIRC I used 1 can of primer and less than 2 cans of finish (large 26" frame only).
I used Rustoleum, but any premium paint (not the $2/can stuff) should give you a nice result. Automotive rattle can paint will give you a much harder, more durable finish, but it's more prone to drips so you have to be more careful with it.
Satin finish paint is my preference over gloss, it's more forgiving to surface imperfections and doesn't show the seemingly inevitable spray marks that you get with gloss (plus I just like the look of it better), but it may limit your color selection.

Last edited by scyclops; 06-26-11 at 09:38 AM.
scyclops is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 09:16 AM
  #12  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If it is an aluminum frame and you want the paint to last I will refer you to here https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=457159 where an expert explains the proper chemicals and aluminum prep. Actually regardless of what you use........ it is ALL in the prep.
Bob_VT is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 09:30 AM
  #13  
dont make me get the belt
 
scyclops's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeastern U.S.
Posts: 510
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
This is just me, but I wouldn't strip it to bare aluminum unless the existing finish is badly dinged up. TSP or your choice of cleaner/solvent, combined with steel wool or fine SP and a decent primer will get you a more than sufficient bond.
BTW, I'm no paint expert, this is based on my own limited experience, so people who know more about it than I may disagree.
scyclops is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 11:42 AM
  #14  
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Definitely keep the og finish if it's in decent shape. It's way stronger than anything that;ll come out of a can.... and definitely let it cure as long as possible before assembling.

I rattle canned my Pista over the winter and it cured for a few weeks before I put it together. I scuffed the original finish and went right over it with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy. No chips yet and I ride every day. Even the drop outs are holding up!
Plymouthfan is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 11:43 AM
  #15  
dont make me get the belt
 
scyclops's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeastern U.S.
Posts: 510
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Plymouthfan
Definitely keep the og finish if it's in decent shape. It's way stronger than anything that'll come out of a can.... and definitely let it cure as long as possible before assembling.
+1

Originally Posted by Plymouthfan
I scuffed the original finish and went right over it with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy.
Please tell me it's not almond color.

Last edited by scyclops; 06-26-11 at 11:50 AM.
scyclops is offline  
Old 06-26-11, 03:24 PM
  #16  
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by scyclops
Please tell me it's not almond color.
LOL, no, just black.
Plymouthfan is offline  
Old 06-27-11, 12:03 AM
  #17  
Moar cowbell
 
dminor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: The 509
Posts: 12,481

Bikes: Bike list is not a resume. Nobody cares.

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
I'd just load your gun up (it is an HVLP, right?) and do it right. If LubriTech M/C colors were still around I'd say rattle-can it, but . . . .

Shoot it Corvette white; turn it upside-down and shoot all the undersides black angled from the rear forward, frisket off lime gold flames from the head tube back; then shoot it all pearlescent topcoat + three or four coats of clear.
__________________
Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."

Last edited by dminor; 06-27-11 at 07:22 AM.
dminor is offline  
Old 06-27-11, 01:14 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by scyclops
combined with steel wool or fine SP and a decent primer will get you a more than sufficient bond.
That's good advice. Use a wax and grease remover, and then a Scotchbrite pad which is as good as fine sandpaper but easier to use and conforms to the shape of the tubes so gets in the nooks and crannies
petrolhead is offline  
Old 06-30-11, 04:14 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 317
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Purple with lime green fork, definitely. That would be sweet.

Since you've got the equipment, I'd do as nice of a paint job as you have time for. When I bought my current frame, the previous owner had sanded all the paint off for some reason and left it bare, so I did the spray can approach. It chips pretty easy. Since it's a mountain bike, I don't care that much--they're made to get beat around IMHO. But if nothing else, paint is a good rust preventer so a good paint job will increase the longevity of your frame.
BlueRaleigh is offline  
Old 06-30-11, 09:18 PM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Flagler Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,959

Bikes: 1986 Fuji Allegro 12 Spd; 2015 Bianchi Kuma 27.2 24 Spd; 1997 Fuji MX-200 21 Spd; 2010 Vilano SS/FG 46/16

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I painted mine using the auto rattle cans for engine enamel. If the bike frame you're starting with is not chrome, then you can use a regular auto primer, otherwise self etching primer will be needed. To cure it, I accelerated that process after painting the frame and handle bars by allowing it to dry first and then locked it up inside the suv for a day or two at the hottest times of the day. Basically using the car as a solar oven. I went with New Ford Gray for the frame, handlebars & 1 piece crank arms, then painted the crank gear universal gloss black. It's not perfect but it's nice enough for a bike frame. I really had no problems with runs or drips, and I really did this outdoors with no paint bay. I did a 2003 Haro bmx bike and posted the thread & pics in the bmx forum

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ight=2003+haro

Last edited by fuji86; 06-30-11 at 09:27 PM.
fuji86 is offline  
Old 06-30-11, 09:42 PM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Flagler Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,959

Bikes: 1986 Fuji Allegro 12 Spd; 2015 Bianchi Kuma 27.2 24 Spd; 1997 Fuji MX-200 21 Spd; 2010 Vilano SS/FG 46/16

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
As for color, the blue and orange go well. Just me, I went with the all gray so that I knew I could get the color, Ford isn't going anywhere in my lifetime, it's one color not two so I don't have to worry about touching it up and having to take things apart again, just throw some news paper on some surrounding parts and spray it some more.
fuji86 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
speedevil
Classic & Vintage
2
06-02-18 09:54 AM
lacro
Classic & Vintage
32
05-01-18 04:02 PM
Hatchy
General Cycling Discussion
22
09-17-15 01:43 PM
3speed
Classic & Vintage
12
04-06-14 11:49 AM
BrainInAJar
Framebuilders
2
09-01-10 12:06 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.