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My Rear derailer folds up on itself every time it's in smaller gear combinations?

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My Rear derailer folds up on itself every time it's in smaller gear combinations?

Old 10-18-11, 09:46 AM
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CyJackX
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My Rear derailer folds up on itself every time it's in smaller gear combinations?

Hey, I recently got a very beat-up bike that had a rear derailer issue. In the small/small combinations, the rear derailer just folded up on itself, more than I see derailers fold up when they are uninstalled. The chain also sagged a lot. I know the small/small combination isn't oft used anyway, but I know we're supposed to check all combinations for posterity. Anyways, I just decided to shorten the chain length a little and that seemed to solve it, but is that worrisome? Should I just shell out a few bucks to replace it?
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Old 10-18-11, 09:55 AM
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Never use that combination...nor the large/large. You need to shift out to the Large/Large combo to test it though b/c if you accidentally use it and you took out too much chain...you will have a heck'uv'a'mess.
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Old 10-18-11, 09:58 AM
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I have taken it out there to test that the chain's not too short. It works, but the derailer goes practically straight. In all likelihood I should replace the chain as well, but I want to know if that is normal for derailers. That's my main question: is that normal derailer function for the bottom pulley to pull up almost past the middle one?
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Old 10-18-11, 10:33 AM
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I was thinking the chain was too short. Measure new chain by looping the chain big-big and add two links. Break, then thread through derailleurs and reattach, then cycle through your gears to check.

I accidently cut my chain too short once and the RD was stretched completly when shifting to the larger cogs until it bound itself. I added addition links back until it was correct. I still do not know what made me break it where I did. Measure twice cut once. lol
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Old 10-18-11, 10:36 AM
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What's the cage length on your derailleur? If it's not a long cage, you're going to have unusable gears one way or another, regardless of your chain length.
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Old 10-18-11, 10:43 AM
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I'm not sure, I just measured about 70-80 mm? While all of these answers and questions are I'm sure related to each other in some way, can someone answer my question about whether the derailer should fold up on itself when given too much slack? Chain-length I'm already aware of. I just want to know if I should replace my derailer.
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Old 10-18-11, 10:57 AM
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As long as the chain still runs smoothly through the pulleys then the derailleur isn't folded up on itself too much. From your description it sounds like yours is working fine and there is no need to consider replacing it.
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Old 10-18-11, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by CyJackX
I'm not sure, I just measured about 70-80 mm? While all of these answers and questions are I'm sure related to each other in some way, can someone answer my question about whether the derailer should fold up on itself when given too much slack? Chain-length I'm already aware of. I just want to know if I should replace my derailer.
Would've needed pics of it "folded up" while you still had the too-long chain to tell for sure. Sounds about right to me, however. If the top pulley's dragging on the cogs at all you may want to give the B-tension a half-turn or more.

Since it's on a beater I wouldn't go out of my way for a new derailer but if you like riding it and have some extra funds to throw parts at it and can get something like a Deore derailer for a screaming deal like $20 or so then why not go for it.

What derailer is on there currently, though?
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Old 10-18-11, 02:37 PM
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Honestly, it's so caked with grime I can't read anything more than "Shimano" and SIS. Yeah, it's a beater. I however did just buy a new frame from Nashbar so I'm probably going to be throwing it onto the new build. As long as it works for now, it actually shifts fine on the rear.
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Old 10-18-11, 02:47 PM
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I think moving a plain ol' Shimano SIS derailer to a new frame is not worth the trouble. At least pick up one of the A-derailers to put on there (Altus, Acera, Alivio.) Maybe even a Tourney if you're really budget bound.

If you do wanna stick with the SIS, make sure it's not the claw-only type as it probably won't work on your new frame. If you go Tourney shopping, same applies, some are claw only, some have claw option, some are claw-free.

What kinda bike is your donor bike? Magna?

Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 10-18-11 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 10-18-11, 02:49 PM
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It's 3x6 right now. I'll probably go with a Tourney. What are the (noticeable) advantages of nicer derailers?
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Old 10-18-11, 02:58 PM
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I have a feeling you'll encounter some fitment issues if you plan on moving all the parts from your current bike to a new Nashbar frame. You probably have a differently spaced rear wheel, different headset/fork requirements, seatpost diameter, etc.

Better move financially and you'll probably get it rolling more quickly if you got a lowend bikesdirect.com bike like this one perhaps:

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ggressor_1.htm

It'll take some work to get the BD bike built right. Lube all the threaded interfaces and seatpost, brake/derailer adjustment, wheel tensioning/truing, etc. But it'll be easier than a parts transfer most likely and you'll have a slight step up in component quality.

Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 10-18-11 at 03:03 PM. Reason: original bd choice sold out.
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Old 10-18-11, 03:12 PM
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It's a Pacific Mountain Bike, and that's as much as I know. I'll figure out what is and isn't compatible when the frame arrives, I suppose!
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Old 10-18-11, 03:13 PM
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What do you mean by claw, though? The Hanger-option?
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Old 10-18-11, 03:21 PM
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I looked up the full-build of the frame I bought, and I I believe it will be compatible for the most-part.
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Old 10-18-11, 03:27 PM
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The Schwinn official build is here:
https://www.schwinnbikes.com/bikes/mo...s-14351#/specs

Nashbar was selling a frame in my size for 19$ :-/ Given that I have a beater frame at the moment, I couldn't resist.

As far as the fork/headset goes, I know my current one is 1 1/8" as measured per Sheldon Brown's quarter-measuring idea. I also just bought a 1 1/8" suspension fork. The only thing I wouldn't really be sure of is since my current one is 6-speed, and the full-build is 7-speed, whether I'd have to space/redish the rear a tiny bit. It looks like the full build comes with tourneys, anyway.
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Old 10-18-11, 03:59 PM
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That's wild a 6-sp with 1-1/8".

The current Frontier takes 1-1/8" threadless. The Frontier that Nashbar has in their pic is a couple years old, however. It takes a threaded setup but I can't tell from pics whether it's 1" or 1-1/8".

Your rear wheel is probably spaced to 130mm, the Schwinn is probably 135. I reckon you could squish the frame with the QR everytime. If you've solid axles on the Pacific they're probably long enough to respace/redish the rear end.

Wow, that Nashbar Frontier has some crazy deep fork dropouts, freaky!

Claw:


No Claw:

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Old 10-18-11, 04:16 PM
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Although I know the current frontier has 1 1/8 according to their spec page, I merely assumed that the nashbar frame would be older but still similar specs. As far as my pacific being 1 1/8, I Think it is, but only using Sheldon Brown's quarter measurement from his site, where the handlebar stem is slightly wider than a quarter for 1 1/8 and noticeably smaller for 1". So I might be wrong. Worst case scenario, I need to buy a new headset, because I already have a new 1 1/8 fork.

Ah, I always called the "claw" the hanger. So I know what you're referring to. My pacific comes with a hanger/claw.
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Old 10-19-11, 10:05 AM
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hum.. I have the same issue and I ended repacing the deraulier. Shoulda fix it.
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Old 10-19-11, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by skieslord
hum.. I have the same issue and I ended repacing the deraulier. Shoulda fix it.
Well, you got a new derailer out of it, didn't you?
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Old 10-24-11, 09:18 AM
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My original problem seemed to be a long chain, I removed two links out of it.
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