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single chainring?

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Old 12-30-04, 11:57 PM
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ajs26
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single chainring?

Time for a new mtb. I'm considering building up a Gunnar Rock Hound with some higher-end stuff on it. The only thing I want to do different is have a single chaingring upfront. I was thinking less maintenance that a full 27 speed bike, but alot more versatility than a single speed. Anyone try this before or have any opinions on the matter?
p.s. I live in the midwest where there are hills just obviously not on the same scale as those on either side of us.
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Old 12-31-04, 12:21 AM
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jeff williams
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I run a 38t mounted mid triple to a 7>spd 12-28 cluster.
My 8>spd being built, 11-29 or 30T cluster.

A dual plate ring guard will keep the chain on, I built a tensioner.

I find the bike quiet, easy to operate in extreme riding as I shift right and front brake left hand.

Im currently running a 122.5 axle to get a good chainline. Most frames will only accept I think 39 ring with mtb chainstays.

A single crank 'd be nice, the triple was here and the bash mounts perfect.
A double say 30T and 40T to an 8 cluster be o.k..16 spd bike????

My Blackspire Epic ring is holding up good under constant use.

The heavy fs single ring bikes seem to favor 34-32. Mines more xc, single track so I keep it fast and light, I was still going onto the big ring when a triple, so I added teeth.

I was into this as I dislike noise, chainslap\ derailler scrape when jumping. I also like the bike clean at the apex of the tubes, I mount my bottle cage there and if full, it feels better with the bikes gravity.
I lost a couple pounds...I think I have more torque with the chain on more teeth.

I like it, if you go all out, pick your gears.

Expensive way to ride though.
But I ride exactly what I like.

These are older pics, the tensioner was re-designed. Same idea, better bracket, toothed gear.

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Old 12-31-04, 07:12 AM
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use whatever front ring size you feel will give you the gearing you need for our trails/type of riding. nothing is set in stone about what you have to use.

the straighter your chainline, the better.

take as many links out of your chain as you can, and run your rear mech tight, but not so much that shifting suffer. experiment on this one to see what works with your bike setup.

an outer bashring helps alot, especially if combined with either another one on the inside (though not always doable depending on your frame/crank/bb choices and chainline needs. spot brand makes a nice thin one if you only need it for chain keeping. plenty of others make big beefy ones if you want it to bash into things. if you need a thin one to cover over more than 34- teeth or so, an easy way is to just use an older, larger toothed ring, and grind the teeth off. install as normal. voila, instant outer chainguard.

something like this: http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html can help alot on the inside. i've used this with my own 1x9 setup in the past, with no problems.

7, 8, 9 in the rear or whatever. you could even use separate cogs in whtever combo you want to suit your needs. 1x3, 4, 5 anyone?
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Old 12-31-04, 09:50 AM
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Expensive way to ride though.
But I ride exactly what I like.

I thought it would be slightly cheaper because I wouldn't have to splurge on the front d or the shifter, but I guess when you start customizing things and starting with an almost $800 hardtail frame I am prepared for the cost. Thanks for that info though.
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Old 12-31-04, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ajs26
Expensive way to ride though.
But I ride exactly what I like.

I thought it would be slightly cheaper because I wouldn't have to splurge on the front d or the shifter, but I guess when you start customizing things and starting with an almost $800 hardtail frame I am prepared for the cost. Thanks for that info though.
Cheaper if you have a bike to strip already. Otherwise, component purchases will end up costing more than an assembled package.

I didn't have enough money to get a super ride, modded an old mtb. I rode its old components out over a year and replaced them with my specific likes. Eventually i'll swap the frame out.
Then I'll reassemble the Ritchey and have 2 hot bikes.

One old, one new.

The bike has???? only the original headset, seatpost and rear wheel, rear derailler.

Brakes
levers
shifter\s
bars
brake pads
grips
chainring
tires
cartridge bb
cables
stem
pedals
saddle
hex out axles = $550?+

Except for the bb and outer chainring, I've got the original bike in a box.

I also didn't want to ride a crap bike for a year, saving money. I rode old components and swapped as soon as I had free coin.

If you buy a shift set...it's a set, you only need one shift\ derailler. Cannibalise a new or used bike if you want to save?
Strip a Trek and sell the frame.

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Old 12-31-04, 12:20 PM
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Well that's what I"m going to do. Gunnars only come as frames or framesets no complete builds.
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Old 12-31-04, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ajs26
Well that's what I"m going to do. Gunnars only come as frames or framesets no complete builds.
Ritchey as well, I was intending to build onto the Niti. About $700 for a frame.
The only mtb frame made by Tom.
But I may go for a freeride bike as I already have a Tom Ritchey and it's good as an xc bike.

So now i'm interested in this frame!http://www.243racing.com/page155.htm

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Old 01-01-05, 11:25 PM
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I'm definitely going to be looking at a few frames, there's just something about the Gunnars that I really like. I will take anything into consideration, but I would pay a few hundred extra to get a frame that is made in the USA.
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