If you do want some BB7s, I have a set that have less than 200 miles on them. I put them on my CX bike *right* before the BB7 road was announced. The lever travel with road brifters is not that awesome so I need to upgrade.

Of course, you'll need housing and brake cable.. heh

Screw it. Just ordered a new hose kit and fluid. Sticking with the elixirs for now.

Cmon Ed, you are building a bad ass bike so stop crying about 30-40 bucks. :D

I don't know much about the hayes but how about these? You could have them about the same price as the new hose.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail.htm...offer=EMB11EM1

Doesn't it use DOT 3, 4 ? Certainly someone can schwag ya the fluid, what's it take, 5-6 ounces?

I'll give ya $250.

I actually just sold my Stroker Ryde brakes off the Parker. Buyer hasn't even paid for them yet. I don't like them though. I imagine the Trail would be better, but I'd rather go bb7 than my old Stroker. D swears by the higher end Strokers though. I wonder if they use different calipers or master cylinders than the Ryde. Mine were a bit under powered and really loud.

Ya I gotta stop moaning. If my Elixirs still perform alright for a while, I'm cool. If I put $50 into them including the fluid I bought and they decide to take a crap, I'll be pissed. Really doesn't matter much around here...I don't use my brakes much compared to people with mountains. Mine don't need to dissipate heat. They just give me a little bit of added control.

I've always wanted Hope or Formula brakes. I should make that my next savings priority.

Ken...they use dot 5.1 and 4. I believe it's 4 anyways. I think the pit stop fluid is 5.1. I just bought some Motul 5.1...should be alright.

........or XT's. Those will be my next hydros if these Hayes Nines ever die. Shimanos = mineral oil. How cool is that?

I know it isn't much coming from a latte-warrior like me but my Formulas have been a dream. They have performed flawlessly with little maintenance. The model I have is no longer made, but I'm sure the equivalent exists today. I have the Formula Bianco set.

I had moved up from BB7s and the difference was staggering. I can't imagine going back.

Weighed all my parts minus the headset (66g). Looks like it's going to be 30lbs 13oz.

Still contemplating tires. Fork will be later, I think.

With new tires, 29.5lbs. Drop another 1.25 with an air fork to 28.25. I'm cool with that.

I'm sure they are even if they appear similar on the outside. My son is running my old Stroker Trails on his Bullit now (after I got a couple or three seasons of DH riding/racing on them) and they're still strong as ever. They were a vast improvement over my HFX Mag HDs. My Primes are amazing and just as powerful, if not moreso, than my 4-pot Sroker Aces. Dunno how they did that, with a contact area more like the 2-pot Strokers; and that poppet valve adjustment is ideal for my small hands. I can adjust a short reach coupled with early-stroke activation and run my levers inboard for one-finger braking even on steep-n-deep DH runs.

[/sermon]

Going 1x9 isn't without its challenges. All standard mountain bikes have chain line issues. The new 142x12 setup is a new crappy standard, but in my opinion is perfect for 1x9.

If you are in your middle chain ring and middle cog, you will notice that your chain line is not straight. If you move the X-Type spacer from the drive side over to the non-drive side, chain line is perfect. (73mm shell) I used to do this on my hard tail to combat the severe chain line when running 1x9 and using my lowest cog. I know it's ergonomically goofy...but I never felt the 2.5mm difference and it made my drive line smoother and quieter.

The Heckler won't do this because the swing arm is too wide.

Chain line:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0294.jpg

Clearance when set up properly:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...IMAG0293-1.jpg

Clearance with the spacer moved to the non-drive side:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...IMAG0295-1.jpg



3 options:

1-suck it up and ride it like it was designed
2-use 2.5mm chain ring spacers to move the middle ring over
3-buy a 28t or larger (if available) granny, lose the inner guide ring, run a box guide setup

All 3 will work fine.

#2 isn't what I would do if I used spacers.

you can get 19mm ID spacers in many thicknesses. it's a pain to search for them on amazon and ebay but they exist. I have bought them in 0.5, 0.7, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5mm thickness which some combination of those on your cranks and hub* should allow you to tune the chainline exactly how you want it.

* don't use more than 1.2mm under the cassette, or the lockring won't engage. you can safely use *no* spacer behind the cassette though, or something between 0 and 1.0 (standard). :)

I guess I'm failing to see your problem, ed. It looks to me like your chainring is lined up pretty good with the middle cog. I know the shot isn't dead-on center down the plane of the chainring; but if I line up what you have it looks pretty close.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t.../chainline.jpg

It looks like it needs to go about 1mm further outboard on the crank side. To do this, use a 1.5mm spacer on the NDS and a 2.5 & 1.0 on the drive side. Or perhaps 1.0 on NDS & 1.5 on DS.

But like I said, if you dig enough you can find a variety bag of spacer sizes and also 6-10 packs of individual sizes. per spacer, the cost is a bit absurd, but overall it's really cheap. (under $10)

It's better seen in real life. I'm not worried about it. It'll work fine.

Headset came in.


http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0297.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0298.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0299.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...IMAG0301-1.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0302.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...IMAG0303-1.jpg


Getting closer...just waiting on my brake line, fluid, and seatpost shim.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...1352859372.jpg

Soda can, cut and wrap to fit. Seriously. have done it in a pinch many times, never had an issue.

And brakes? Meh, just ride as is. Momentum is your friend.

Still not an ideal perspective, but the yard stick is laying against the 4th cog. Ideally, the middle ring should line up perfectly with the 5th cog. With the 2.5mm spacer, it's perfect. As I said though...it won't matter. I'm just hyper-anal. (especially on this build)

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...IMAG0307-1.jpg

Ed, I know you told us when you got those bars, but I don't want to go looking. What rise are they, 40mm?

50mm. Christmas present last year. Not sure if they'll stay on this ride or not. I still have an ea70 on another bike that I may or may not swap.

Wow. Dreamy.

Brakes: Go for the Shimano SLX with the ice-tech pads. Relatively inexpensive, super strong.

Stickin' with ma' E-lickers for now. Will keep that in mind for my birthday though.

I stood on it in the garage. (no shim yet) Bounced up and down with the shock in the different settings. Holy Daggum crap...damping tech has changed for the better in a big way.

Now I want to save for a CTD fork. :lol:

Nice one Ed, it's coming up trumps.

Thanks man. I had to look up that phrase. Never heard it B4.


Meaning
To complete something well or successfully, especially in circumstances in which it isn't expected.

Origin
'Come up trumps' is a variant of the older phrase 'turn up trumps', which has been in use since the early 17th century.

The word trump in this context is a corruption of triumph, which was the name of a card game, similar to whist, that was played in the 17th century. The preacher Hugh Latimer referred to it in his 1st Sermon on the Card, 1529:

"The game that wee wyll playe at, shall bee called the triumphe... Lette therefore euery Christian manne and woman playe at these cardes."

Encouraging card playing is hardly Christian orthodoxy these days, nor was it in 1529, but then Latimer was far from orthodox in his religious views - which resulted in him being burned at the stake.

Shakespeare used card playing imagery when alluding to the game in Anthony and Cleopatra, 1606. He says that "the queen, [Cleopatra] whose heart I thought I had" ... "now lost, she has pack'd cards with Caesar and false-play'd my glory unto an enemy's triumph."

In triumph, as in whist, the trump suit was selected at random by the 'cutting' of the deck. Trump cards temporarily outranked other cards. Selecting the right suit to match one's hand was an advantage in the game and so turning up trumps became synonymous with success. It was, and still is, bad form to cut the deck without first shuffling the cards. Robert Burton, in his The anatomy of melancholy, 1621, was outraged that:

"They turned up trumpe, before the Cards were shuffled."

By the 18th century turn up trumps had begun to be used in its figurative sense, i.e. with no direct reference to card playing. It is recorded that way in Grose's Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue, 1785:

"Something may turn up trumps, something lucky may happen."

Incidentally, Shakespeare was also the first to refer to a pack of cards as a deck - in Henry VI, Part III, 1592:

"But whiles he thought to steale the single Ten, The King was slyly finger'd from the Deck."

^^ You've never played pinochle?

Long time ago, D.


Interesting turn of events...Raceface makes an inferior crankset to Shimano in my opinion. The Atlas was slightly flexier than my Hone when it was in the Komodo. Just barely. That in itself wasn't enough to kill the deal.

The Raceface Atlas has a rubber preload washer on the non-drive side. When I install the crankset and torque it, the right arm is a little closer to the Swingarm than the non-drive side arm. Close enough that when I stand up and honk on the pedals, there is enough Swingarm flex and crank arm flex that the arm comes in contact with the Swingarm. The Shimano Hone crankset does not do this...therefore the Hone will be on this bike. I like the bling of the red Atlas, but theHone is lighter (by an oz), stiffer, better designed pedal inserts, and stronger arm/spindle interface.


Preload washer
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0310.jpg


Slight contact
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0311.jpg


Hone clearance
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0312.jpg

All I'm waiting for now is my rear brake line and fluid. I rode around a bit, mucking about with the rebound and presets. It's early, but promising. Very smooth...like cruise'y. It will most likely spend most of its life in the "trail" setting, but the lockout and descend mode are pretty ******.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...IMAG0317-1.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0313.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h2...d/IMAG0316.jpg

What I should do is suck it up and ride it with the PIKE until I can afford a Fox 32 CTD fork to match. Then I could order the bar mounted lever that actuated the shock and fork CTD functions simultaneously. Quick flip would actuate full-on lockout, medium damped low speed compression, or wide open plushness.

Can also attach to the Fox dropper post too. (I think) I'm not going to piss away 4 bills on a post though lol.