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Fox Float travel?

Old 07-15-13, 06:32 PM
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fixedgearinker
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Fox Float travel?

I just bought a really nice 2007 Stumpjumper FSR with a Fox Float 120 RL fork: short of taking the for apart to check travel spacers is there a way to determine if the travel has been changed? Thanks
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Old 07-15-13, 08:17 PM
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Likely wasn't changed.
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Old 07-15-13, 09:09 PM
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I agree with Dan. It seems unlikely that anyone would reduce the travel on a stumpjumper. It is not an XC race bike.

And I have no idea how the travel spacers work. But intuitively, either the exposed stanchion is going to be less than usual, or the fork will bottom out earlier than usual. I think it's the former.
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Old 07-15-13, 10:00 PM
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Thanks! That's my thinking, the reason I am a bit suspect is this is a size large frame: the gal I bought it from is 5'5" and had clearance. The measured standover is a bit over an inch less than the Specialized specs in the owners manual for a large- the stand-over height is about the same as my medium frame Epic which isn't an accurate metric I know but she went to lengths to make it fit with ultra-short stem, seat-post cut down with just a few inches showing so I am wondering if she may have had her shop reduce the travel to shorten the height for a better fit... I had it out today for a bit and had no issues with bottoming but then again I was just on smooth trails with no hits... I agree about the fork stanchion being less with shortened travel but without having a known full travel I have nothing to reference with... there is a Float 80 RSL on my Epic and I have approx 40mm less stanchion showing than on the Stumpjumper which would, to some degree, mean to me that it is at 120. Regardless I am very pleased with the bike and the current travel is more than sufficient for the riding I do, I just like to know/learn about stuff.

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Old 07-15-13, 10:12 PM
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I just so happen to have a 26" Float 32 120 RLC fork in the next room...

...and it has almost exactly 12.5 cm of exposed stanchion between the dust seal and the crown. actual travel is less of course, it bottoms out roughly 1 cm below the crown, right at the top of the kashima logo. This is with the bike on a stand, no weight on the fork.

As an aside, even if the woman who rode is has outrageously long legs and a short torso she shouldn't have been on a large frame. I hope she bought it used or it was actually an ex's bike, otherwise some LBS somewhere really failed.
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Old 07-15-13, 10:42 PM
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Thanks for checking... I just measured- I am showing 14cm from dust seal to crown, this is with the bike standing against the wall so the fork is weighted by the bike. I am not going to stress it much really as the bike is a nice fit for me- I installed a new seat-post and stem today.

I agree with you about the LBS who sold her the bike- she bought it new and had all the associated paperwork, manuals , dvd from Fox, shock pump, etc. In speaking with her she said her inseam is about the same as mine- I am 5'10- but upon meeting her and seeing the seat height she was sooo improperly fit it made me sad for her dropping cash for such a bike and it being an ill fit at best. As she just rode in town she was looking for a road bike so I worked a nice trade with her, she now has something which fits properly and she will happily ride.
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Old 07-15-13, 10:54 PM
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Actually I stand corrected on a point: I was looking at the spec's for the Carbon Stumpjumper for the standover height: The standover specified for my Stumpjumper, size large is actually 1/2 lower than what i am measuring... still I must wonder why a bike shop would fit such a small person on a large frame. Well, to make a sale is why- so much for integrity over the dollar :/ The difference in standover between the small and large is just 1/2 inch or so but the top tube (effective) is list nearly 3 inches difference- hence the shortest stem ever fitted to a bike.
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Old 07-15-13, 11:16 PM
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14cm, really. I did mean the top of the stanchion where it meets the crown-- not a diagonal line from the dust seal to the center of the crown. Basically, I can see 12.5 cm of stanchion on mine.

If you can see 14cm, I would at the very least say it doesn't have a travel spacer.
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Old 07-16-13, 06:33 AM
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The stock specs show 120mm travel fork. If you actually have 14cm of exposed stanchion, it's possible that the 20mm travel spacer has been removed -- although, I'd doubt this based on the history of the bike. I highly doubt the fork has ever been serviced. Given that, it wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and atleast change out the fork oil.
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Old 07-16-13, 06:44 AM
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yep, 14cm of actual visible stanchion, the goldish color tube, from the top of the dust seal to the bottom of where it inserts into the crown... now I am curious...
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Old 07-16-13, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
The stock specs show 120mm travel fork. If you actually have 14cm of exposed stanchion, it's possible that the 20mm travel spacer has been removed -- although, I'd doubt this based on the history of the bike. I highly doubt the fork has ever been serviced. Given that, it wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and atleast change out the fork oil.
Thanks- that is what it is beginning to look like although, as you said, that would be counter to what the were trying to do in fitting to a smaller person. The bike has not been ridden much at all, and though she took it in yearly for a "tune-up" I too doubt the fork has ever been serviced. I think I will do that as it seems a straight forward process, and at the same time I can satisfy my curiosity about the travel thing...
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Old 07-16-13, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fixedgearinker View Post
Thanks- that is what it is beginning to look like although, as you said, that would be counter to what the were trying to do in fitting to a smaller person. The bike has not been ridden much at all, and though she took it in yearly for a "tune-up" I too doubt the fork has ever been serviced. I think I will do that as it seems a straight forward process, and at the same time I can satisfy my curiosity about the travel thing...
Yeah, they are very straight forward to work on. If the rebound damping is working, you won't even need to bother with opening up the damper. Probably don't even need to change out the oil seals/wipers(although the new SKF seals are better than the old ones), unless you have oil pooling up around the wiper lip -- that can be left for the next service.

As you probably know, all the service info can be found on the Fox site: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

If you have any specific questions when you get started, post up. I've worked on a lot of floats.
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Old 07-16-13, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
Yeah, they are very straight forward to work on. If the rebound damping is working, you won't even need to bother with opening up the damper. Probably don't even need to change out the oil seals/wipers(although the new SKF seals are better than the old ones), unless you have oil pooling up around the wiper lip -- that can be left for the next service.

As you probably know, all the service info can be found on the Fox site: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

If you have any specific questions when you get started, post up. I've worked on a lot of floats.
Thanks- everything is working great- lockout and rebound- and the seals all seem to be tip-top with no residue evident around the wipers or anywhere. Maybe this winter I will change them. Yes, I have surfed onto the Fox site it appears to be a great resource. Where is the best place to source the fork oil, crush washers and such?

Thanks!
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Old 07-16-13, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by fixedgearinker View Post
Thanks- everything is working great- lockout and rebound- and the seals all seem to be tip-top with no residue evident around the wipers or anywhere. Maybe this winter I will change them. Yes, I have surfed onto the Fox site it appears to be a great resource. Where is the best place to source the fork oil, crush washers and such?

Thanks!
Fork oil can be found at most online shops. I get mine from JensonUSA. For your fork, you'll only need Fox green and float fluid. For assembly grease, Buzzy's Slick Honey is the stuff to get.

Crush washers aren't necessarily needed, since a lot of times they can be reused -- I've actually never found a cracked one. Crush washers are supplied with the seal kit.

Enjoy the new ride.
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Old 07-16-13, 07:50 PM
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Cool- and thanks!
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