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Help With Build - 2010 Intense Tracer VP

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Help With Build - 2010 Intense Tracer VP

Old 08-06-13, 10:24 PM
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sharp
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Help With Build - 2010 Intense Tracer VP

**Update Build Complete Pics added!**

I recently found a pretty good deal on a small 2010 Intense Tracer VP frame and I am trying to build it up on a pretty tight budget. I'm looking for a little advice.....from those who own this frame, and those with experienced in building. The frame came with a Fox RP23 shock, and I already bought a fork (Fox 34 Talas 160) And Cane Creek headset.

I would like the finished bike to be a sub 30 lb xc / trail bike. Looking specifically for advice on stem, handle bar, seat post, bottom bracket, brakes, and wheels. Besides brand /model, also recommended width on handle bar, and length and rise of stem. I know these are individual things that will vary according to rider size and preference, but I honestly have no idea, and I'm willing to experiment until I get it right. Direct me toward a neutral /standard starting point. Pretty sure I want to go with a 2x10 set up, and I have a pretty good idea of what I want for derailleurs, but would also love suggestions on gearing, front and rear. I live in a mountain area, and I climb a lot. I won't be doing a lot of crazy downhill stuff though or jumping. I won't ride down what I can to ride up. BTW I'm 5'5" and about 165. I currently ride a 2002 16" Rocky Mountain Oxygen. Not sure if I'll keep it or not after completing the Intense build...just depends on how the build turns out I guess.

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Old 08-07-13, 07:29 AM
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If I were building a tracer for myself, I would spec it something like this:

bar - something around 700mm width, low rise...I have to keep mine cut to about 690mm. Around 700mm is pretty much the norm these days for xc/trail bikes.

stem - 70-80mm range. I'm partial to Thomson, but also like the RaceFace stuff

seatpost - definitely a dropper post

crankset/drivetrain parts - SRAM X7/Shimano SLX groups and up

brakes - Hope Tech X2 Evo...maybe Shimano SLX/XT or Magura MT4/MTS on a tighter budget

For the wheelset, I've only run Chris King hubs and Stan's rims over the last several years. Not a budget build, but the hubs will last forever.

Anyways, there is a ton of options out there, but that's pretty much how I would build it.
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Old 08-07-13, 08:09 AM
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What I think of as a "tight budget" does not jive with the parts the OP already bought. I built my bike last year for about $3,000 and my wife's last month for $1850, so I have a pretty good idea what's achievable. In fact I have spreadsheets tracking the build components, price and options for both bikes.

So, OP, how much money is left to buy the drivetrain, wheels, tires and cockpit?

A big way to save money is a 3x9 drivetrain, 2x10 is much more expensive. I personally would not use any Stans rim, as I favor rims and complete wheelsets that have a UST bead. Using UST rims and compatible tires has allowed me to mount a half-dozen different types of tires tubeless without a compressor and I have never burped a tire on the trail.
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Old 08-07-13, 10:34 AM
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Well, I'm in $1400 so far, and while I don't have an exact number in mind I am going to shop hard for used "deals" on the rest, even if it's not the best / fastest / lightest etc. option. If I pay half price for a stem, and it doesn't end up working for me I can flip on eBay and try something else...
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Old 08-07-13, 11:02 AM
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Ok. Let me give you an example, then. This was the original plan for my wife's drivetrain. I ended up getting XT brakes for $102 each.

[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD]SRAM 3x9 Twisters[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$539[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]SRAM x7 triple 22/32/44[/TD]
[TD]cranks[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$170[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]SRAM x7 long cage 9sp[/TD]
[TD]RD[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$58[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]SRAM x7 31.8mm clamp (top/top)[/TD]
[TD]FD[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$40[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]SRAM x0 twisters 3x9[/TD]
[TD]shifters[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$79[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]SRAM PG-970 (11-34)[/TD]
[TD]cassette[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$35[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]KMC X9.99 chain[/TD]
[TD]chain[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$27[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Shimano rotors[/TD]
[TD]rotors[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$50[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Shimano Deore prebled discs[/TD]
[TD]brakes[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$80[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Is that anything close to what you were expecting? That's just the drivetrain-- no stem, seatpost, saddle, bars etc in there.

Google can be hit or miss on looking for components at good prices. Here's where I would suggest looking:

1) Ebay - check shipping prices, item location, and recent feedback
2) Universal Cycles, Jenson and Pricepoint - generally if it's on a website, they will have the best prices. Look for coupon / discount codes for each. (UC always has one for 10% off $100 and 15% off $300, very helpful for popular items sold at/near MSRP everywhere.)
3) Chain Reaction Cycles. Almost always best prices of the UK sites, and always free shipping to the US.
4) Amazon. Their search often finds crazy stuff though, and often items have short/poor descriptions, so make sure you're buying the right thing.
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Old 08-07-13, 11:04 AM
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Actually, speaking of brakes, if you get hydraulic you will need to budget for small parts and tools or to have a local shop cut the hoses and bleed them for you. If you get mechanical discs it should absolutely be Avid BB7s, about $80-100 a pair.

Don't forget housing and cable as well.
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Old 08-07-13, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
Actually, speaking of brakes, if you get hydraulic you will need to budget for small parts and tools or to have a local shop cut the hoses and bleed them for you. If you get mechanical discs it should absolutely be Avid BB7s, about $80-100 a pair.

Don't forget housing and cable as well.

Thanks ColinL! I've never had db's before...not sure about hydraulic vs mechanical. Thoughts?
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Old 08-08-13, 04:28 AM
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Truvativ Stylo line of stems - quite decently stiff, light, and very budget friendly. Spend the money saved on the stem to spring for a Race Face SixC bar - my pref is the wide and low rise DH version. Mine came in around 100gms lighter than the alu version it replaced. You can also get some very nice headsets for not a ton of cash, that aren't crazy spendy. I like the Cane Creek 10 series for this. When th budget allows later, you can spring for the nicer bearings to pop in, as well as the lighter alu crown race, and use it all with your existing 10 series cups.

Hope hubs with alu freehub body on Stan's or WTB i19 or i23 rims. They build up fairly light, and can be found not too expensively - I'm a fan of chainreactioncycles.com for their builds on Hope stuff. Lighter rim if you ride smoothly, heftier if you don't. I tend to ride pretty smoothly - have been beating on a set of the i19 rims with 2.3-ish tires set up tubeless for over a year now, and am quite impressed with how well they have held up.

Tires - YMMV - I like a true UST in back, and "tubeless ready" up front to save weight there. Have recently been dabbling with the "tr" stuff for the back as well though, and so far so good. Trade off of the lighter weight of course is they may not last as long, and they aren't going to resist sidewall tears as much as a full UST tire. I'll take a weight penalty using tires I like and trust rather than ****ty tires.

Mechanical brakes can work very well, but hydraulics kick their ass in every respect. The only way I'd go back (used them a long time) is if building up a bike that was going to be touring areas where getting parts would be really hard or expensive. I have a preference for Avids. Others like Shimano. Those are really to two big dogs for brakes. Magura, Hope, Hayes are out there, but IMO, the best compromises of weight/performance/budget come from Avid and Shimano.

X.9 or XT are the go-to workhorses of both companies. I'm a SRAM guy - go X.9 rear derailleur, XX on the shifter -it's spendy, but so smooooooothe! XT cassettes are my preference, even over the SRAM models. Another good compromise of price/weight/performance. The spendier cassettes aren't a ton lighter, but are waaaaay more expensive. The cheaper ones can be found...really cheaply, but are also boat anchors.

Seriously give a look at a 1x setup - you can save a chunk of weight, and if you pick our ring wisely, can still have the gearing you need. 11-36 cassette with a 28-32 ring, depending on your legs. I dig my 30 x 11-36 setups, and they both see lots of climbing, but again, it depends on legs and fitness.

Cranks: the difference in weight between many of the levels is all about having alu rings and bolts vs. the cheaper models having steel. You can always pop for the cheapys now, and upgrade to the lighter bits as the budget allows.

Seat, pedals, grips - personal preference is so big here - use what works for you. Saving weight on a seat means nothing if it isn't comfy. Or if your foam superlight grips get torn up and need to be replaced all the time.
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Old 08-08-13, 08:40 AM
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I see you are in AZ. Which area, just curious.
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Old 08-08-13, 01:04 PM
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Ok, now to more specific recommendations.

For brakes, Shimano Deore are the best inexpensive hydraulic brakes, but they are heavy and aren't as easy to modulate as the higher models. A bit of an on/off sensation which I find troubling when doing a technical descent. Universal Cycles has 2012 Shimano XT brakes for $103/ea using the 15% off coupon-- that's what I just used on my wife's build.

I like a firm road saddle but do not like a firm MTB saddle even on a full suspension bike. I do like a saddle that has a firm enough structure to where you can move all over it and be well supported, but I want some padding. Depending on how wide your sitbones are, I really like the WTB Volt, Silverado and Vigo. I do not care that other saddles are lighter.

I agree with scrublover, get a rim or complete wheel that has a UST-compatible bead. I like the WTB Frequency series, and the i23 is being replaced by the i25 right now. I always look at wheels like that, but then end up buying Mavic... I have four sets of Mavic wheels in my fleet: Crossmax ST 29 (CX bike), Crossmax ST 26 (my MTB), Crossmax SL (wife's MTB), and Kysrium Elite (road bike). My wife's Crossmax SL are a 2009 model I got for $400 shipped... you can find similar deals on 26" wheelsets, especially if you're not picky about the color/appearance.

Tires are entirely dependent on what conditions you ride in but I would put something meaty on a 5.5" travel bike.. 26x2.25" at a minimum. That is one drawback of Mavic wheels-- they're almost all 19mm ID which limits you to a 2.3" tire and even those have a very round, bulbous profile. If you're going to run a high volume 2.35 or 2.4" tire I'd go with the WTB i23 / i25.

I would also try to save some money in the budget for a dropper post unless you ride on predominantly flat terrain.
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Old 08-08-13, 07:00 PM
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I run Stan's for the lighter rim weight and ability to run non-tubeless tires, keeping the weight down. In the 5+ years I've been running Flows, I've only burped a tire once, though I don't seek out the lowest possible tire pressure. Yes, you will need a compressor for most tires, but I've mounted at least a dozen different tires to Stan's rims. My only complaint with Stan's rims is that they are a bit soft and they don't build the stiffest wheel. If I get two years out of a rear rim, that's doing pretty well. My current rear has several dents/flat spots in it. Like everything bike, it's a compromise. In this application, I'll take the lighter weight option as weight saved can be significant. If the wheels were for a DH bike, I'd probably go true UST spec(and even lightweight DH'ers ride Stan's Flow, which is the rim I ride).
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Old 08-08-13, 08:04 PM
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Every one of my Mavics are perfectly round and true. They're extremely tough despite the spoke count because of the rim, kind of the opposite of what you have.

Latest tubeless tire: Michelin Wild Grip'r 2 Advanced 26x2.25. Claimed weight: 570g. Actual weight: 578g. This tire is not available with a standard bead, all sizes and variants are either tubeless or full UST. I think that will be the case more often than not moving forward, and I'm guessing that Stans will eventually release rims with the UST bead, assuming they want to stay in business...
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Old 08-08-13, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
Every one of my Mavics are perfectly round and true. They're extremely tough despite the spoke count because of the rim, kind of the opposite of what you have.
My wheels take a beating. Any type of wheel doesn't usually last more than a few years under me. And, yes, Mavic is a tough rim -- I've built many of them for other folks. My brothers 819s have been going strong for almost 5 years, but he's not as hard on gear as I am.

If you have no experience with it, then maybe you shouldn't comment on it.
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Old 08-08-13, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
If you have no experience with it, then maybe you shouldn't comment on it.
Where did that come from? I have to have bought a stans rim to know the bead hook concept is an ill match for a ust bead?

Right...
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Old 08-08-13, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
Where did that come from? I have to have bought a stans rim to know the bead hook concept is an ill match for a ust bead?

Right...
You're right. Stan's rims were initially designed to be run tubeless with non-tubeless tires. Obviously, a UST bead will not be a good match.
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Old 08-08-13, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
You're right. Stan's rims were initially designed to be run tubeless with non-tubeless tires. Obviously, a UST bead will not be a good match.
Well, I wasn't trying to be rude before, but I am pretty sure that I wouldn't recommend a Stans rim to a newbie in 2013 for the reasons covered above by both of us. There's no doubt that Stan invented something very clever over a decade ago, but the industry is moving another direction.
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Old 08-08-13, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
Well, I wasn't trying to be rude before, but I am pretty sure that I wouldn't recommend a Stans rim to a newbie in 2013 for the reasons covered above by both of us. There's no doubt that Stan invented something very clever over a decade ago, but the industry is moving another direction.
Check again...Scrub mentioned Stan's rims

Anyway, agree to disagree. I don't think Stan's is going anywhere any time soon.
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Old 08-08-13, 08:44 PM
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You're reading in to my words. I literally mean that I wouldn't recommend them. I have no issue with you, scrub, or anyone else recommending them. Everyone should make an informed decision. And clearly, yes, Stans has legions of happy customers and sells plenty of rims.
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Old 08-08-13, 09:07 PM
  #19  
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Keep it on topic, boys...
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Old 08-08-13, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
Check again...Scrub mentioned Stan's rims

Anyway, agree to disagree. I don't think Stan's is going anywhere any time soon.
Yep, and I've got a mix of Arches, Flows, and WTB Frequency rims in the fleet. Have had no issues with full UST tires on any of them, and they are not treated gently.

When it becomes time for a new rim, it'll likely be whichever I can get a good deal on.

Anyhow, as noted, rim and tire selection really is such a personal thing based on where and how one rides.

This is all academic anyhow - we don't really know just how much the OP wants to spend, unless I've missed it somewhere above. I'd seriously be eyeing wheels on ebay right now. Bet he can score a good deal on some nice 26" wheels from someone selling to pay for their 650B.
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Old 08-08-13, 09:23 PM
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You're right, Zeph.

Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
Seriously give a look at a 1x setup - you can save a chunk of weight, and if you pick our ring wisely, can still have the gearing you need. 11-36 cassette with a 28-32 ring, depending on your legs. I dig my 30 x 11-36 setups, and they both see lots of climbing, but again, it depends on legs and fitness.
+1 on this, if it will work for you.

I've recently converted both of my mtbs to 32t single rings with the RaceFace NarrowWide chainring and Shimano XT shadow plus(clutch) rear derailleurs. The Narrow/wide chainring provides good chain retention without the use of a chainguide. Prior to the RF narrowwide rings, I was running a 2-ring with bashguard setup on one bike and a 1-ring with full chainguide(top and bottom) on the other.

If the budget can be stretched a good bit, you could look into SRAM X01...1 x 11 drivetrain with 30-38 chainrings and 10-42 cassette.
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Old 08-08-13, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
If the budget can be stretched a good bit, you could look into SRAM X01...1 x 11 drivetrain with 30-38 chainrings and 10-42 cassette.
I'm very disappointed in X01's cost. I would have liked to see SRAM do more to differentiate it from XX1 to lower the cost, particularly of the cassette and cranks.
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Old 08-08-13, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinL View Post
I'm very disappointed in X01's cost. I would have liked to see SRAM do more to differentiate it from XX1 to lower the cost, particularly of the cassette and cranks.
Yeah, it's kind of a bummer compared to other options. The Pinkbike article on x01 does a good job of explaining the minimal price difference. Another year or two down the road, and we might have some more affordable 11sp options.

Anyways, stoked to be checking out a RIP9 with x01 this weekend.
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Old 08-08-13, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Daspydyr View Post
I see you are in AZ. Which area, just curious.
Prescott!
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Old 08-08-13, 10:52 PM
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I'm very intrigued by running 1x9 or 1x10! I do climb a lot, but I spend probably 95% of the time in the middle chain ring. I'd love to get a new xx1 or x01 group, but in the name of saving a butt load of $$ I would like to try and piece something together. I can always change and upgrade in the future. I need to find out what the gearing is on my current bike....count teeth on my middle ring and on the biggest on my cassette. I'd like a little more range than I have on my current setup, riding in the middle chain ring. If that's possible then I will definitely consider a 1x drive train. Any suggestions and advices as to what my options are?
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