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Old 12-07-08, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by x136
Dang, that sounds like fun. Have you ever built a frame before? I would think that it'd be easier to start with a welded frame, but maybe not.

What kind of tubing and lugs are you using? Paul fork end?

I'll be interested to see the final result.
Also lugged frames are easier for beginners because there are two pieces of metal heated up and then a hot liquid metal between them as a binding agent. It requires less precision of heat than a tig weld, not to mention that the lugs hold the tubes at the right angle as mentioned above.
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Old 12-07-08, 08:27 AM
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Very cool.
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Old 12-07-08, 09:42 AM
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Seriously cool
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Old 12-07-08, 10:35 AM
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you've got a PM! thanks!

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Old 12-07-08, 11:13 AM
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*double post* sorry
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Old 12-07-08, 11:44 AM
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Very nice job!
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Old 12-07-08, 02:05 PM
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what type of camera/ lens are you using in those pics?

Frame looks good. Makes me want to bust out the braze.
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Old 12-07-08, 03:01 PM
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Some of them are 20D some of them are 5D. Lenses are either a 100mm 2.8 macro or 50mm 1.8. The ones from last night are 5D and 100 mm macro.
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Old 12-07-08, 03:32 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by lemondzurich
As for paint, I'm thinking about going cheap and just clearcoating.
I thought the same thing, but didn't post because I thought it'd be one of those things that only I would like.

Originally Posted by miahmiah
not to mention that the lugs hold the tubes at the right angle as mentioned above.
That's true. I guess if one started off with welding, they'd need some kind of full jig first.
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Old 12-07-08, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by lemondzurich
Some of them are 20D some of them are 5D. Lenses are either a 100mm 2.8 macro or 50mm 1.8. The ones from last night are 5D and 100 mm macro.
This would explain the razor-sharp focus and great color balance of all of your photos, not exactly the norm here, haha

But anyway, this is AMAZING work. Keep those pics coming! Do you have an estimate, as far as parts go, for how much it would cost to build one of these frames?
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Old 12-07-08, 05:44 PM
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My frame specifically cost about $350 when you add in the parts, shipping, silver, and fork. Without the fork, it would have been about $280.
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Old 12-09-08, 12:45 PM
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Not to say lugs are a no brainer, but they are easier to do than TIG welding. The end result of a TIGed joint is a good joint, but it is loaded over a smaller area so the stakes are particularly high. TIG also uses more heat over a small area, and this can pull joints radically out of alignment if not done properly. Also the best tigged bikes are welded in a fixture and not cold set afterwards, so that raises the bar even further.

The normal perception among cyclists is that a monkey could do TIG, while it has a long list of disadvantages as a tubing joinery method. The truth is pretty much the opposite, it takes the most skill and gives the most advanced results. For instance the high heat is less likely to harm steel because it is concentrated in a very small area, over a very short period of time, but that is a recipe for disaster without a lot of skill.
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Old 12-09-08, 01:54 PM
  #38  
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Check out Caletti Cycles' website for a very detailed description of the TIG fabrication process.
https://www.caletticycles.com/process.htm
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Old 12-09-08, 04:31 PM
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Hey folks - Just dropped my bike off at the Bike Nook to have the headset installed and the seat post reamed. They weighed it at 4.76 lbs. I'll have them re-weigh it after I get everything put together.
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Old 12-09-08, 05:08 PM
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For the frame only? That's on par with other lugged frames I've seen.
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Old 12-09-08, 05:27 PM
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Yes, the frame only. Although I guess I should have them weigh it after reaming and before installing the headset to shave off a few fractions of a gram.
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Old 12-10-08, 07:57 PM
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got the bike back from the shop today and threw some parts on:
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Old 12-10-08, 08:04 PM
  #43  
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Me wants one of your frames!
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Old 12-10-08, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lemondzurich
got the bike back from the shop today and threw some parts on
Wow! Very nice!

As for paint, I'm thinking about going cheap and just clearcoating. Can you just clearcoat on bare metal? It won't be pretty, but I kinda like the brushed steel look and this way, I can remember all the mistakes I made. =)
You might take a look at Dupli-color products--they make a clear primer and auto clear coat spray. And if you really want to get fancy and cheap, they have "anodized" colors. From my bookmarks for a future project:

Adhesion Promoter Clear Primer

Auto Spray Clear Top Coat

Metalcast Anodized Color Paint


(the best price I found for these was at www.autobarn.net)

stan
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Old 12-10-08, 10:06 PM
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I was actually thinking about the duplicolor "nite lite" product in clear. That way I can keep a reminder of my work (good parts and bad) and get a little safety without pasting reflectors or reflective tape all over it.
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Old 12-10-08, 11:23 PM
  #46  
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that is disgustingly awesome. excellent work!
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Old 12-11-08, 12:48 PM
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I'm a super noob when it comes to appreciating frames, and so please forgive me for this question: how do you ensure frame integrity/strength? I vaguely recall ads that Cervelo ran during the last TdF showing some machines punching and tugging at Cervelo frames to demonstrate this point. Or am I a witless victim of mass hype? Thanks!
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Old 12-11-08, 01:02 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 1jacktripper
I'm a super noob when it comes to appreciating frames, and so please forgive me for this question: how do you ensure frame integrity/strength? I vaguely recall ads that Cervelo ran during the last TdF showing some machines punching and tugging at Cervelo frames to demonstrate this point. Or am I a witless victim of mass hype? Thanks!
Basically, you do a good braze or you don't.

Since he did them himself, he would know.

A big bike company has to do QC because they make so many bikes, with several employees working on them.
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Old 12-11-08, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lemondzurich
got the bike back from the shop today and threw some parts on:
I really like the "naked" look, no paint, no decal. Simple is beautiful.

Your bike is a work of art.
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Old 12-11-08, 03:22 PM
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I rode the bike to BART and back today for a total of 7 miles. So far so good. It feels good, much lighter than my old Panasonic. The fit is perfect for me except I think I'm going to get some different handlebars. The reach to the bullhorns is just too long for me. I think these bars were more for TT type riding. Plus, my Panasonic has bullhorns so for variety, I might try a short set of risers. Make the look even more simple.

I'll probably ride it for a week or two like it is to get some more confidence the joints will hold and then take the parts off for a final sanding and then clear coat.
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