Rear hub failed
 

Heh get home from todays ride and notice rear wheel is barely moving. Looks like the hub finally went on my old/spare wheel. So in the span of three weeks I went from having two clincher rear wheels to 0. :( I think I have magic touch, I touch something it breaks. :notamused:

What kind of hubs? Cartridge or cup-and-cone bearings? Either case, it should be possible to fix them.

Don't know, whatever hub Shimano used in their 10speed road wheels five years back. It probably can be fixed, just sucks that it happened now. So my choice for now is either don't ride or risk running carbon tubular.

Shimano always uses cup and cone bearings. They are quite sturdy, but do require periodic maintenance. The problem may be as simple as overtightened cones or dry bearings. Anyone with cone wrenches should be able to help, or just ask your mechanic. You may need new cones if they are pitted. I am in Palo Alto, can take a look if you're close.

Thank you for the offer, I will keep it in mind. I will stop by the shop tomorrow to see what they can do. Looks like the issue arises as soon as it clamped down.

Hmm periodic maintenance, I don't think I did anything to it in the last 40k miles. :lol:

40k miles! Holy service life. Time to buy new wheels. ;)

40k mi and no maintenance? No wonder it's done that! You best learn how to maintain those hubs.

I had new wheels. The rear had a spoke nipple pulled through the rim couple weeks back. It's getting rebuilt right now. :notamused:

Like what? Take it apart re-grease it every 10k miles or so?

Anyway took it to the shop today, and was quoted 30 bucks to get it fixed. I am using a carbon tubular for now. Hope I don't get a flat. I have no idea why people would use them for regular training wheels.

I regrease mine (at least the ones with ball and cone) about once a year.

I love cup-and-cone bearing hubs. They spin so much faster due to the lack of seal drag. Repacking the grease isn't hard, you just need the proper cone wrenches and getting the cone's tightness just right is important. There needs to be just a slight amount of play so when the QR clamps down the play is gone.