Can Someone tell me how to adjust this hub?
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Can Someone tell me how to adjust this hub?
I don't see a specific section for recumbent trikes - so... This is on a 2009 ICE T trike with 20" wheels. I posted it over at bentriders.com and it's been sitting there for days with no responses...
Went for a ride yesterday and the trike felt a little odd and seemed to be making a noise. Stopped and wiggled things and found the rear wheel had a "lot" of side-to-side play - By a lot I mean it was perceptible. In the OLDEN days I'd have said the cones were way loose - that kind of feeling......
Went home, pulled it off and found there WAS some play. I was able to unscrew the end cap/side plate (I've labeled it part "A" below) by hand. It wasn't tight. Part "B", on the other side, was tight. Screwed A back in, put a hex wrench in the axle and tightened A. Wheel became tight to turn on the axle. Decided making it TIGHT was a bad idea.
With the pieces removed I could see inside. On the side with "A" it looks like there's a bearing inside, but I don't know if "A" should be tight against the bearing or not. On the side with the cogs, "B" IS tightly screwed in against something.
Here's what things look like with the pieces out, and the pieces I took off.
For the moment, I've screwed in "A" 'til it's AGAINST something (I presume the bearing?) so there's no side-to-side play, and when the tire is installed I believe the skewer against the knurled piece on the outside keeps it tight so it can't screw in or out.
The axle rotates very smoothly, and there's no play in either direction, so I don't think anything is worn or broken, but should the end cap "A" be loose?
I took the rear wheel off the OTHER trike (we have 2 ICE Ts) and on THAT wheel BOTH pieces are tight. I wasn't willing to put a HUGE amount of load on to get it loose, but with a hex wrench on the axle and a short wrench on the "A" piece I couldn't get it loose... So, how AM I supposed to have this thing set up?
Went for a ride yesterday and the trike felt a little odd and seemed to be making a noise. Stopped and wiggled things and found the rear wheel had a "lot" of side-to-side play - By a lot I mean it was perceptible. In the OLDEN days I'd have said the cones were way loose - that kind of feeling......
Went home, pulled it off and found there WAS some play. I was able to unscrew the end cap/side plate (I've labeled it part "A" below) by hand. It wasn't tight. Part "B", on the other side, was tight. Screwed A back in, put a hex wrench in the axle and tightened A. Wheel became tight to turn on the axle. Decided making it TIGHT was a bad idea.
With the pieces removed I could see inside. On the side with "A" it looks like there's a bearing inside, but I don't know if "A" should be tight against the bearing or not. On the side with the cogs, "B" IS tightly screwed in against something.
Here's what things look like with the pieces out, and the pieces I took off.
For the moment, I've screwed in "A" 'til it's AGAINST something (I presume the bearing?) so there's no side-to-side play, and when the tire is installed I believe the skewer against the knurled piece on the outside keeps it tight so it can't screw in or out.
The axle rotates very smoothly, and there's no play in either direction, so I don't think anything is worn or broken, but should the end cap "A" be loose?
I took the rear wheel off the OTHER trike (we have 2 ICE Ts) and on THAT wheel BOTH pieces are tight. I wasn't willing to put a HUGE amount of load on to get it loose, but with a hex wrench on the axle and a short wrench on the "A" piece I couldn't get it loose... So, how AM I supposed to have this thing set up?
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Saw your posting on Bentrider. Nearly a hundred people have viewed the post but most of us have never disassembled a cartridge bearing rear wheel beyond removing the cassette. This guy had similar symptoms on a conventional bike. Several people responded to his question:https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespee...-bearings.html It might be that one of the two bearings is no longer snug inside the hub. You might have a better chance of seeing the problem if you remove the cassette and the freehub. The cassette on your ICE T is not the common one that I'm familiar with which has a lockring that uses a tool that fits inside the ring. Yours has notches on the outside of the lockring. It may require a bottom bracket removal tool to remove your ring. Remove the lockring and the cassette will slip off the freehub. Removing the freehub requires a fairly large metric hex 10, 11, or 12mm. See the Park Tool tutorial for a guide: Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Freehub Service Once you get the freehub off, you should be able to tighten the nuts/cones on the axle (after resetting the bearings if that is a problem).
I replaced the bearings on the front wheel of a GS GTO trike a few years ago. Using a block of wood to set the bearings probably works but I used a socket that just fit inside the opening to drive the bearing into the steering spindle. If you apply pressure to the bearings from the side, only do it to the bearing itself and not the seal. Be gentle too. If all else fails, go to the ICE website where you will find a way to contact them. I did so a decade or so ago with a question about my being able to fit a used ICE trike and they responded within a couple days.
I replaced the bearings on the front wheel of a GS GTO trike a few years ago. Using a block of wood to set the bearings probably works but I used a socket that just fit inside the opening to drive the bearing into the steering spindle. If you apply pressure to the bearings from the side, only do it to the bearing itself and not the seal. Be gentle too. If all else fails, go to the ICE website where you will find a way to contact them. I did so a decade or so ago with a question about my being able to fit a used ICE trike and they responded within a couple days.
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How many parts do you have?
I would expect two "nuts" on each side to be tightened against each other to function as lock nuts.
I haven't dealt with cartridge bearings much. I do have one that when it is tightened down, it gets quite rough. I haven't had the opportunity to use it much so I haven't paid a lot of attention. Perhaps the roughness when tight is also due to contamination, but you don't want to mash the bearings tightly against the side of the races.
I would expect two "nuts" on each side to be tightened against each other to function as lock nuts.
I haven't dealt with cartridge bearings much. I do have one that when it is tightened down, it gets quite rough. I haven't had the opportunity to use it much so I haven't paid a lot of attention. Perhaps the roughness when tight is also due to contamination, but you don't want to mash the bearings tightly against the side of the races.
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I don't APPEAR to have two nuts or two of anything on each side. As near as I can tell (which hopefully the pictures will help with - I have a piece that screws in from the side opposite the sprockets (A). It goes into opening in which the bearing sits and it's all one piece except for the knurls on the outside, which appears to be a piece attached to it somehow. If I tighten this it APPEARS to contact the inner bearing race (nearest the axle shaft. This is the piece that was loose.
The other side, where the gears sit has the smaller diameter but longer piece (B) that goes in and ALSO appears to contact the inner bearing race when it's tight. It was tight and still is... I can tighten A, but when I do the axle doesn't turn as freely so I just "snugged" up against the bearing and everything seems to work fine. EXCEPT that we have TWO ICE T trikes and I checked the other one and both pieces are very tight.
I'm not keen on taking the sprockets and freehub off. I've got the instructions, but unless there's a problem I'd rather not mess with 'em. As far as I know (and hopefully it would have been me so I'd remember) neither of these rear hubs have ever been apart.
Yes, I can send ICE an email, but I figured I'd try in the forums before going that route since I figured there'd be experts in here.
Anyhow, I presume these two outer, screwed in pieces that appear to contact the bearings would be the "two nuts that tighten against one another." But as I said, when I tighten them down, things don't spin freely so I'm not sure if there's a problem or not. At the moment it seems to be fine with the cover screwed down lightly.
The other side, where the gears sit has the smaller diameter but longer piece (B) that goes in and ALSO appears to contact the inner bearing race when it's tight. It was tight and still is... I can tighten A, but when I do the axle doesn't turn as freely so I just "snugged" up against the bearing and everything seems to work fine. EXCEPT that we have TWO ICE T trikes and I checked the other one and both pieces are very tight.
I'm not keen on taking the sprockets and freehub off. I've got the instructions, but unless there's a problem I'd rather not mess with 'em. As far as I know (and hopefully it would have been me so I'd remember) neither of these rear hubs have ever been apart.
Yes, I can send ICE an email, but I figured I'd try in the forums before going that route since I figured there'd be experts in here.
Anyhow, I presume these two outer, screwed in pieces that appear to contact the bearings would be the "two nuts that tighten against one another." But as I said, when I tighten them down, things don't spin freely so I'm not sure if there's a problem or not. At the moment it seems to be fine with the cover screwed down lightly.
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Maybe this will help it is how to overhaul the rear wheel
https://video.search.yahoo.com/video...778546353&tt=b
https://video.search.yahoo.com/video...778546353&tt=b
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Thanks. I'm not actually trying to overhaul anything. And the hub in the video is the old-style, loose bearing thing I've dealt with for the last 50 years. What I'm trying to find out is how should the hub I currently have, with the sealed bearings be set up with the two screw-on caps. Thus the images showing the setup in the original post.
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I replaced the cassette on our tandem's Velocity rear hub a few weeks ago and found I couldn't get off the cassette after removing the lock ring. After unscrewing (with a cone wrench) the drive side end cap, the freehub and cassette came off together. Yes, the hub is cartridge bearing and there is a cylindrical piece like yours under the freehub that fits against the cartridge (as a spacer?). The freehub came loose from the cassette with a gentle tap or two from a mallet. After greasing up the pawls and surrounding area in the freehub, it went back on and was tightened into placed with cone wrenches on the axle end pieces. No adjustment, just a secure tightening. New cassette went on without difficulty. The hub spins smoothly and the freehub is just noisy enough. No play to be felt.
First time to take apart a modern cartridge bearing hub - had replaced bearings on early specialized cartridge hubs a long time ago.
First time to take apart a modern cartridge bearing hub - had replaced bearings on early specialized cartridge hubs a long time ago.
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I'm still puzzling over the pics, so don't count on much help from me even though I'll try. That looks like a cassette, but all the cassette hubs I've seen have a bearing on the end of the drive unit. That's an advantage of the cassette system - bearings can be more outboard resulting in a stronger wheel. Anyway, the bolt I'm seeing in the drive unit might be the one that attaches the drive unit to the hub. Taking off the drive unit will let you see what's behind it in the hub itself.
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Don't know what hub is on dkperez's bike but found info on Velocity/Chosen tandem rear hubs and found specs listing 4 cartridge bearings in the hubs. I only had a look at the drive side bearing in my hub - approx in the plane of the flange. Must be one in the cassette body, too. Not sure exactly how they located in the non-drive side of the hub. A diagram of a hub would be helpful but haven't seen one.
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How about this one from park tool:
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Hub Overhaul and Adjustment
Look part way down for the cartridge instructions
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Hub Overhaul and Adjustment
Look part way down for the cartridge instructions
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Cool. That's a nice writeup......
I got a reply over at bentrider that says I SHOULD be able to tighten the end cap. If it's NOT able to be tightened I may have to adjust the position of the bearing to be sure it's seated correctly...
I got a reply over at bentrider that says I SHOULD be able to tighten the end cap. If it's NOT able to be tightened I may have to adjust the position of the bearing to be sure it's seated correctly...
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