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Rans V Seat Back Mesh

Old 08-11-19, 04:13 PM
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NVBrandi
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Rans V Seat Back Mesh

Hi to all...
I'm new at this Recumbent bike World. I have a Rans V in need of the Seat Back Mesh, about 15" X 23.5" I have found the Rans Brand Mesh but seems pretty Pricey! Is there another Brand that might Fit at a more reasonable Price? Thanks for any info.
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Old 08-11-19, 06:42 PM
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I’m not aware of alternatives to RANS other than making your own. We bit the bullet and replaced the circa-2010 seat meshes on our Screamer tandem a couple of years ago - the newer RANS ones seem improved and more durable.
Is yours the RANS standard mesh seat?
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Old 08-11-19, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JanMM View Post
Iím not aware of alternatives to RANS other than making your own. We bit the bullet and replaced the circa-2010 seat meshes on our Screamer tandem a couple of years ago - the newer RANS ones seem improved and more durable.
Is yours the RANS standard mesh seat?
Not sure I know what the Standard Mesh Seat is? It does have a Solid wavy panels on the sides that do around the frame with the Mesh in the Middle, if that helps.
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Old 08-11-19, 09:02 PM
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Standard seat is shown as the COMPLETE STANDARD SEAT MESH ASSEMBLY on the RANS site store Seats
What V bike do you have? I have a V-Rex and a V3.
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Old 08-12-19, 03:14 AM
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My Bike just says Rans V.
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Old 08-12-19, 06:55 AM
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Not that it matters for the question, but a V-Rex is a short wheelbase and a V-3 is a long wheelbase.

Honestly your best bet for a new seat mesh is to take the old one off and use it as a pattern to have a new one made locally to you. Anyone with a sewing machine should be able to do it. The best material to use is polyethylene screen material. The stuff is incredibly strong and will last longer than you do. Reflective material is optional.
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Old 08-12-19, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BlazingPedals View Post
Not that it matters for the question, but a V-Rex is a short wheelbase and a V-3 is a long wheelbase.

Honestly your best bet for a new seat mesh is to take the old one off and use it as a pattern to have a new one made locally to you. Anyone with a sewing machine should be able to do it. The best material to use is polyethylene screen material. The stuff is incredibly strong and will last longer than you do. Reflective material is optional.
Yep, assuming a qualified sewist can be located, that is the cost-effective route to a new seatback mesh.
(If a picture of the bike is posted, then we can probably ID which model the bike is.)
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Old 08-12-19, 04:20 PM
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If the front wheel is under the bottom bracket/crankset, it's a V-Rex. If the front wheel is in front of the bottom bracket/crankset, it's either a V2 or a V3. Mine says Velocity 3.
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Old 08-15-19, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by NVBrandi View Post
My Bike just says Rans V.
You are being redirected...

This is a picture of a V2 or Velocity Squared.
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Old 08-15-19, 01:38 PM
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Ok... Just Looked the Bike over! Kinda feel Dumb I didn't notice this sooner! lol On the back of the Frame it says Velocity Squared! So I guess My Bike is is a Rans V Velocity Squared. Like I said, measuring the seat cover, 15" wide by 23.5" tall. The Rans Bike Seat Mesh just seems High $$$ compared to others?
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Old 08-15-19, 01:56 PM
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Rans Seat Back Mesh

Joel Dickman...

Thanks for the Offer, Very Kind. But I believe 24' X 30" is way to big. My seat Measured 15' X 23.5" After Looking the Bike over, on the back of the frame it says Velocity Squared. So, It's a Rans V Velocity Squared.

Thanks Again for the offer
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Old 09-03-21, 08:43 PM
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All this talk about replacing Rans seat mesh, but no mention of how to remove the old mesh. The mesh on my 2002 v-rex is held together by some sort of connector, not zip ties. But I can't figure how to disconnect them.

See red arrow.
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Old 09-04-21, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jobtraklite View Post
All this talk about replacing Rans seat mesh, but no mention of how to remove the old mesh. The mesh on my 2002 v-rex is held together by some sort of connector, not zip ties. But I can't figure how to disconnect them.

See red arrow.
Those look like zip ties or similar plastic pieces - can they not be cut with side cutting pliers?
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Old 09-04-21, 11:22 AM
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The fabric most often recommended for DIY seat replacement is Gore Phifertex. It wears well and doesn't cost much. The picture below is a seat I made recently for my Greenspeed GTO. The original Phifertex seat lasted about 30K miles before it wore enough to look a bit ratty. You might use the same system GS used, a simple rectangle held in place by 6mm shock cord. It is sold by the yard 54" wide and comes in a variety of colors. One yard was enough for two seats, one for an earlier trike and this one. You can buy it online for about $20 a yard or if there is a marine supplier nearby, they carry it too. I bought a 50 foot roll of 1/4" shock cord for $18 by special order at Home Depot. The brass grommets are there too. If I were going to replace that seat, I would make it so that the seat fits with enough of an opening to lace it with the cord instead of using zip ties since this allows you to adjust the tension on the seat, not just hold it in place. A friend sewed the most recent seat for free on an ordinary sewing machine. The earlier seat was sewn by a leather repair shop for $20 which I thought was rather expensive for such a simple job. Sew first, add the grommets later of course.


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Old 09-06-21, 02:28 PM
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There are several different seatback heights that were used over the years. The high back is shoulder height, while the 'standard' is mid-shoulder-blade and I think there is one even shorter. Some of the seat meshes had a pocket in the top, some didn't. I think RANS used buckles to fasten them for a few years, but they didn't hold tension very well. Zip-ties worked best. My mesh uses 8" zip ties, paired at each hole.
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Old 09-13-21, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JanMM View Post
Those look like zip ties or similar plastic pieces - can they not be cut with side cutting pliers?
Thank you; but it turns out I didn't need to remove the old mesh. I purchased a black piece of fabric that looks like the seat cover but is much stronger and does stretch a little. I doubled it over, wrapped it around the old mesh, and put grommets along each side and strung it up like a Lightning P-38 mesh. Before lashing it up, I placed a medium hard piece of foam rubber in between the old and new mesh.

The shade tree mechanic job looks nice and is very comfortable (for me). If had to do it over again, I would have looked for advice hear on what material to use.
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