Thanks, guys... Shortly after writing my earlier post I removed 8 links from the green trike, and it did the trick. ;) Unfortunately 8 links wasn't enough to fix the orange trike. I need about another 4-6 to get it done right.

Too bad my LBS only sells chain in pre-sized kits of 116 links for $25.00), and can't (or won't) sell me just a few from a past job/adjustment. :(

Anybody got a few "Z9000KMZ" links I can have?

-T

Too right! Get the big-big combo right, then use trial and error to see which small-small (and small-medium) combos don't work: just don't use them (the noise will remind you....) Also check with a gear range calculator to identify the gear overlaps - you won't actually be missing much.
Final thoughts: check that the 'B'-screw (SRAM, can't remember what Shimano call it) that adjusts the fore/aft angle of the deraillieur is set correctly before too much faffing, and SRAM power links are wonderful :)

The B screw was turned pretty much all the way out, so I turned it in a few turns to pull the derailer back a little... What's Faffing?

After removing eight links, the green one goes into all its gears (seemingly) fine. :o

BP.. What will ruin the frame if I run certain combinations of sprockets???

If you shift into a gear combination that doesn't have enough chain, it'll twist your derailleur into a pretzel, and sometimes it'll take your dropout with it. Not pretty.

That 'B' screw... You use that to adjust the upper jockey pulley to follow the cassette. With the chain on the largest cassette gear, adjust so the upper pulley is as close to the cassette as you can get it without causing extra noise. (I hope I said that right.) Getting it close makes the shifting more accurate, but too close and the pulley rides on the cogs, which makes noise and wears out the pulley. It's not a real picky adjustment, IME, so don't agonize over it - get it in the ballpark and go for a ride. If it shifts, you're golden.

SRAM reckon 6mm (1/4") gap between the tip of the largest sprocket and the tip of the upper derailleur wheel when they are in line, Shimano says "How to use the B-tension adjustment screw - Mount the chain on the smallest chainring and the largest sprocket, and turn the crank arm backward. Then turn the B-tension adjustment screw to adjust the guide pulley as close to the sprocket as possible but not so close that it touches. Next, set the chain to the smallest sprocket and repeat the above to make sure that the pulley does not touch the sprocket". Both companies publish their set-up stuff on-line, bless 'em.

Faffing about? "to spend your time doing a lot of unimportant things instead of the thing that you should be doing" (from
http://www.freesearch.co.uk/dictionary/faffing) ;)

Check out sheldon's site for chain length.

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain

I'm just on the verge of ordering an Actionbent trike and have been watching this thread with great interest. For some reason the pictures wouldn't come up today. I hope they aren't gone for good. I'll watch for more of your progress reports and am surely interested in your experience as you get to riding your trikes. Thanks for initiating this thread.

Mike

Hey you're right! :eek: I can't see them either!

Well, we'll just have to do something about that, won't we? :D

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b6...reenbydoor.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b6.../BigGreen2.jpg

No, that's not me, that's my friend, Bob who owns some very expensive road-bikes and I figured would know how the trikes felt... He said they were very smooth.... Smoother than his road-bikes. :rolleyes:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b6...lFool/Bob2.jpg

I'm still waiting for my replacement seat to arrive, so I haven't had much of a chance to ride the orange one yet. I also need to add a few links to the chain before I do.

After looking at your head position on the trike, will you be getting the head rest?

Well, that's not my head :p, but yes, I will be attaching the head rest, I just haven't yet.. (they're in the box).

-T