Best wireless odometer for recumbent?
 

Greetings 'bent wizards,
I go both ways (standard diamond frame and long wheel base recumbent); owned an Easyracer GR large frame for 8 years.

My Goldrush odometer just croaked so now is the time to revisit wireless odometers. I'd like to do away with my spliced, frame length wire. 8 years ago I didn't find a wireless unit to either:
1. work on the small front wheel, the smallest wheel in set up software was 24".
2. wirelessly transmit from the full size rear wheel to my handlebar. The one I tried worked fine on my regular diamond frame bike but was erratic over the length of my bent.

So, Wizards: anyone have experience with wireless on a LWB bent?

Wired or wireless
 

I have a Rans Stratus & Rans V2, I use a Cateye Astrale 8. I know its wired but I run it off the front 20" wheel with wire to spare on the standard unit. I mostly use it for overall mileage and the cadence feature. I use my GarminEdge 305 as an odometer. Cateye does offer the Micro Wireless and a V2C check the website http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/461. Hope this helps. The best source for recumbent info is to check out the bentrider online message board ( AKA forum) http://www.bentrideronline.com/

Thanks Pockets!
The Cateye says 5M range. Maybe the more select transmission frequency enables this longer range. I also note it accepts 20" and smaller wheels so I could use either wire or wirele$$.
FYI, I signed up on bentrider.
Cheers!

Most, if not all, modern computers will handle a 20" wheel, which works out to 1410-1500 mm circumference depending on how fat a tire you use. It seems like a wireless unit should transmit far enough to go from the front wheel to the bottom of the ape-hanger bars, but mounting it up higher on the crossbar might be too far to work reliably.

I put a VDO C2DS on my Tailwind last year. "Digital Signal". Works well mounted on the T-bars.

I have a Vetta V100 wireless (speed, cadence and heart rate) on my Corsa. Three years and no problems at all.

I second the VDO C2DS -- completely wireless and its digital signal gives a 2 meter broadcast distance. Also seems to be reliable as I used one all last summer on my Bacchetta Agio with no problems.

Issue is resolved. I'll look to make sure VDO is idiot proof-user friendly and readible without reading glasses at arms length (3000 font size).

I used a V100 wireless for several years before I sold it with a bike to a friend. It finally died this Summer when it started shutting off and on intermittently. Still, it had to have at least 25,000 miles on it before it started acting up. The only problem that I ever had with it was it would be hard on batteries in the extreme cold (below freezing) and you couldn't park the bike near neon signs. Other than that, it was a great computer.

Trsnrtr, Gotta ask what neon lights do?
My other thought is after 25K miles, I'd act up too. Sounds like a good endorsement. User friendliness?
I include using basic miles, mph and then probably am interested in self start and stop, avg mph. I've never been proficient with splits or setting the clock on the VCR.

I'm not an EE person, but neon lights can stimulate some wireless computers. For example, one time I parked my bike under an "open" sigh at a restaurant. The sign was low in a window so was probably less than 18" from my computer. I came out after eating and my computer had added numerous miles, had an average speed of over 45 mph and a max speed over 60. :)

My wife had a Cateye wireless that hit 94 mph parked near a neon beer sign at a gas station. See pic below: :D

Sure it was the neon lights? Did you rule out the food and gas?

I understand wireless now use a more rarifies, coded frequency (2.4 MHZ) to prevent cross talk between cpu, including when heart rate monitors are part of the mix. Yours new or old type?

Definitely old type as the V100 was purchased in early 2004. The Cateye Micro Wireless is also old, but is still made. I don't know about the V100.

I've a 9 year old Cateye that failed. New battery, cleaned contacts and repaired wires. Maybe the gizmo needs a signal from the magnetic/reed switch to start up and there is seomthing amiss there but my recollection is I could check the display without spinning the wheel.
What makes these things fail?