exhibitx

what the ****

LordsOnly

**** thats a nice frame, I'd like trade two of my complete bikes for it

shapelike

This is why I don't look at CL. Hell, this is why I haven't even bothered to list my frameset on CL. **** dealing with those guys.

shapelike

Also, this has been haunting me ever since it was posted on VeloNews:



I just keep imagining walking in to any number of Toronto bike shops and encountering something like this.

"Oh, hey, Nesto-*WRETCH*"

kergin

I like how that wheel clearly says, "XXX". Its the small things that complete the picture.

Marinoni:

MattRennick

more from jacob: I NEVER RIPPED ANY BIKES . IF YOU KNOW ANYTHING THAT I DONT KNOW LET ME KNOW. TO PUL OUT FROM YOUR SELF ITS DIFFICULT TO PUT BACK. SO FIND A WAY TO KEEP QUIET JACOB

hahaha. beautiful.

Krusty: The new bike looks beautiful... the old one too. Nice work!

TRaffic Jammer

Can't say I disagree with his profiting from this over hyped market, he paid what the guy wanted, and someone will or won't pay Uncle. You want the bargain... you gotta get in there first. Krusty, you know I love ya..... but I hate you....

trueno92

GHETTO COMMUTER UPDATE:
==========================

stolen from MTBR

Homemade SS Freewheels – recycle vintage wheelsets

I have had success in recycling older Shimano 5-6 speed freewheels into workable SS freewheels, by removing either lockring (newer Hyperglide) or lockcog (older Uniglide), removing cogs and spacers and rebuilding. Simple tools, available to anyone with basic wrenching skills are all that is needed.

I decided to prepare a step-by-step photo guide to DIY.

The finished product


Why? or Why Not?

Since the late 1980's most quality multi-gear hubs use a freehub/ cassette. For most 7-8-9-10 speed applications this is the only way to go. Freehubs also offer easy conversion to SS and there is lots of information available on how to convert or 'ghetto-mod'.

I have a number of vintage freewheel wheelsets of good quality that are 'underutilized' and I would like to use for SS builds. At the same time, I do not want to re-space hubs and re-dish wheels to use a SS specific freewheel. I don't want to buy a number of SS freewheels for different ratios. I want to reuse and recycle. I assume that there are millions of freewheels still spinning around, most are discarded because one cog, usually the highest one, is worn out...

There is little or no information on the internet on freewheel cog replacement. In fact, except for some references on the Sheldon Brown site to sprocket replacement as a lost art, there is not even an image of a 'freewheel bench vise' or adaptor.

The following links to Sheldon Brown give great information. I credit Sheldon for inspiring me with the paragraph on freewheel sprocket replacement. It got me thinkin there should be a way..

https://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

Why Shimano?

There were many different freewheels in the 70's and 80's.. There are few if any except Shimano (and Sun Race) currently producing multi-gear freewheels. Even the newer Shimano Mega7 7-speed models use a different spline pattern and do not lend themselves to conversion. Except for some Regina and Suntour freewheels, all I have are Shimano, and the proprietary pattern of the cogs is important. Shimano HyperGlide freewheels also have a 'lockring' that does away with the need for a 13t or 14t 'lockcog'. Most home users will have or can find recycled Shimano freewheels, and you will find that for a decent conversion you need at least one HyperGlide freewheel (for the lockring) and one UniGlide freewheel (for the straighter cut teeth on the cogs.)

Step-by-step Guide.

It is almost impossible to remove either lockcog or lockring without a vice (or vice substitute) to hold the freewheel. I tried with dual chainwhips with the freewheel in place on a wheel. I broke one whip. I tried bracing a freewheel off the wheel using vice-grips and chain, and even destroyed large cogs trying to brace in a vice without the elusive 'freewheel bench vise'

I want to credit Wayne at Performance Cycles (local LBS) at Quadra and Reynolds (just off the Galloping Goose trail at MacKenzie) in Victoria, B.C., for showing me a couple of versions of (now unavailable) vice adaptors and suggesting a home brewed version using a wooden jig and wood screws to secure the freewheel. Screwing the freewheel to a solid surface was the key.

Also props to Ryan at Recyclistas community bike shop at the TransCanada flyover on the Galloping Goose, where the Goose meets the Lochside Trail, for providing a number of freewheel carcasses for experimentation and general banging the hell out of...

For the images I show two freewheels, one a 5 speed Uniglide from the early 80's and the other a 6 speed Hyperglide that is current today.

You can successfully do the conversion with just a Hyperglide freewheel, but you will have ramped and cut teeth that are less than completely satisfactory. However, its no different than a 'ghetto-mod' of a freehub using HyperGlide cassette cogs. If you can find an older Uniglide freewheel you will get better teeth (the slight 'twist-tooth' style) and more spacers...hehe...

Remove the freewheel from the bike.

If you have a wooden work surface, simply brace the freewheel with wood screws around the perimeter of the largest cog.



I show a possible variation using a wooden brace in a bench vice.



If you don't have a wood surface that your wife will let you drive screws into, you can also use a plywood 'plate' and clamp to a surface, like the dining room table....

Showing a plywood plate using a chainwhip (counter-clockwise) on a Uniglide freewheel (with lockcog)



Showing a plywood plate using a hammer and punch (counter-clockwise) on a Hyperglide freewheel (with lockring)



I had problems with a Shimano MegaRange 6 (low cog of 34t). The big cog was so flexy that the teeth would jump out of the screw heads with the force of the blows to the punch. I did a butcher job of shimming the big cog, but it worked...



Uniglide comes apart



Hyperglide comes apart



All the cogs and spacers simply lift off, after the first. Here is the body of the freewheel showing two 'steps' – the fatter for the low gears (cogs greater than 20t) and the slimmer for cogs from 13t to 19t.

trueno92

Here's a comparison of Uniglide vs Hyperglide cogs. You can see why the Uniglide is my preferred one.



Its a simple matter to build a new SS freewheel on the slimmer step of the freewheel body. Many middle gear chainlines will line up guite well with the middle of the 6 speed freewheel, so you can mount a cog from 15t to 19t against the shoulder of the step and use the slimmer spacers to fill to a point where the lockring will secure.



You cannot use cassette cogs – they differ.



You cannot use BB lockrings or freehub lockrings- they differ.



You cannot use cassette spacers – they differ.



I have tried various sizes of ABS pipe that I had, including 2” and 2.25” but no joy. I hope to try some PVC.

A few other finished product



The finished 18t weighed a little over 220 grams



Just as an aside, I include an image (courtesy Sheldon Brown) of a Var 16 lockring tool, that some suggest is the way to remove the Hyperglide lockring...



In my experience, I had to hammer the hell out of the punch to move the lockring, and I really doubt that the narrow ring would move with the plier type tool. It also costs $80. Wayne at Performance Cycles told me that he just uses a punch and hammer.

I did not build a freewheel with cog greater than 19t, the last that fits up against the shoulder of the step. I could easily do one with 20t plus, but I have to figure out how to secure very wide spacers on the lower step to butt against the cog and/or spacers on the upper (low gear) step.

Future to-do list

I will see how the stability of the cogs holds up. I might add a string of large (fatter) spacers to the top step if the cog giggles.

I will experiment with how much tension I need on the lockring to hold without excessive giggle. It will be harder to remove the lockring as it will be harder to secure the SS freewheel to the base. I will experiment with a jig using chain or maybe just using tall screws.

I will see what alternate spacers might be had.

Build a 20t to 30t model, just to see what I need to make it work.


Final thoughts

The job went surprisingly easy once I figured out how to secure the freewheel to a solid surface. Be sure to drip penetrating oil into the threads of the lockring/lockcog or just soak in oil for a while.

Watch your knuckles on the teeth of the cogs, especially if you are really whacking on the punch...

I disclaim all responsibility for physical injury, property damage or death. Use at your own risk. Your mileage may vary.

Any comments welcome, suggestions for spacers etc etc

Cheers

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=373319

exhibitx

HAHA, me too!

I was going to post it on here but i thought it was "too weird", some guy with no shirt and a shop apron peeling off rim tape with a butter knife. I can't go to velonews without thinking about it now.

elTwitcho

My bottom bracket is starting to creak and groan like an old pirate ship and Urbane isn't going to have a replacement until next week. Bottom brackets don't tend to fail catastrophically and cause people to bail do they? I've got a bunch of riding I want to do in the mean time and just want to make sure my bases are covered.

iherald

We need to have safety meetings again. I enjoyed having an hour hang out on Friday's after work with ya'll.

shapelike

The bench @ Riverdale was a good location last year.

operator

Creaking can be a lot of things, related or unrelated to the drivetrain...

kergin

Ride it until catastrophic failure or the noise just goes away.

oh?

jet sanchEz

I noticed some funky noises from my Battaglin and I pulled out the BB and there was no grease in it. None at all. I knew the bike was neglected but dang, that is whack. I should probably take everything apart and check it. At least it is supposed to rain all Saturday, perfect for messing around with a bike.

elTwitcho

It's at the same spot in every rotation of the pedals (left pedal, right at the bottom) and it happens in or out of the saddle, hands on or off the bars, so I`m assuming it`s probably the bottom bracket. I`ll check the chainring bolts and shift the chain on the drivetrain to double check, but i`m pretty sure it`s the bottom bracket.

If I ride it quick enough it stops making noise so maybe that`s a temporary solution

kergin

Well, it's just a guess, but check if the pedals are on the cranks nice and tight. If not, remove them, re-grease, install and listen for any change. Something else you can try to check if your BB is screwed, is to set the left arm up and parallel to the seat tube and use your hand to try and "pinch" the two together. If there's any movement, you have problems. Either the arms aren't tight enough on the spindle or something else is messed up (loose BB cups or shot bearings).

zippered

pfft it's like every day at my house.

elTwitcho

Thanks dude, took a look at both those things. Pedals are fine, there`s a tiny bit of movement when I squeeze the crank arm and seat tube together. There isn`t any play and it doesn`t feel at all loose, but if I squeeze the two together I can feel about a milimeter or two of movement, but it feels more like a bending motion than a loose jiggling motion. Should I be worried (for some reason my question mark key isn`t working)

shapelike

You could fit like two Brad's inside that guy's apron. And besides, Brad's got that moustache.

</bromance>

kergin

So, I just went and re-took my G1 driving test Apparently, having held one for five years prior means I don't have to wait to do the exit exam. Rode my bike along Dundas and up Shaver to Rathburn, over to Centennial Park then up to 5555 Eglington. Screaming babies, kids running everywhere, and a 2 hour wait. I've never worked so hard to do a 5 minute exam for ID in my life. :/

operator

G1?? what teh noob

kergin

^^ Bike is my only means of transportation, so that's how I get around, 365 days a year, unless I have to venture out of the GTA, in which case I take GO or a Greyhound. I simply got it for I.D. purposes, because apparently SIN + Birth Certificate + Expired license combined with my ability to grow a beard and male pattern baldness aren't enough for some people to know I'm over 19.

----------------

So I do complain about velocity rims a fair bit, but today something new and even more disappointing happened to my Aerohead OC rear. I went about mounting one of the Armadillios, re-using the inner tube that was on there prior. Once installed, I made sure the bead was seated and started to pump the tire to 110PSI. I got to about 100 and had a blow-out. Fine, these things happen. It's normal. I'll just try another tube and be more cautious this time...

I'm all ready to go with a new tube and start pumping up the tire again. This time, no blow out, but I notice something odd... the rim lip had completely buckled outward at one point. This rim is toast, and I've run it for less than two years. How is it that I'm running a 20 year old Mavic rim on my Miele just dandy, and this POS can't last more than 2 years?

I think this is the fourth Aerohead rim I've destroyed through otherwise normal use. Essentially, Velocity rims have shown themselves to be total garbage.

The failure count for me so far:

Mavic: 0/4
Alex: 0/3
Campy: 0/2
Velocity: 4/4
Araya: 1/1 (tho to be fair it was damned old)

----------

Shop guys: How long do you think Orange will take to get King hubs if they're out of stock? If it's over two weeks, I'll just ask if they can give me any colour; I'm not partial.

operator

Hehehehehehehhehehe