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Has a professional fitter ever told you to tilt your saddle?
And if you thought your saddle should be tilted (either way), and the pro fitter said no, make it level, were you uncomfortable after the comprehensive fitting?
Please discuss. |
if my taint hurts i tilt it down
if i slip forward off the saddle i tilt it back |
Originally Posted by redfooj
(Post 17741966)
if my taint hurts i tilt it down
if i slip forward off the saddle i tilt it back |
I have the saddle on my 29er slightly tilted down because it makes it a bit more comfortable. Due to lack of metric allen keys, i haven't done it on my road bike but...soon...
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
(Post 17741981)
And a fitter can't determine that with a tape measure.
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Originally Posted by Gehena
(Post 17742014)
I have the saddle on my 29er slightly tilted down because it makes it a bit more comfortable. Due to lack of metric allen keys, i haven't done it on my road bike but...soon...
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
(Post 17742015)
But is it so fundamentally wrong to tilt it, that the fitter doesn't need a measurement to know that? Rhetorical question, not seeking an answer.
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
(Post 17742017)
Could a pro make it that comfortable without the tilt? That is what we are discussing here.
Edit- Totally read your reply wrong. I think it's possible, but weather it's more or less comfortable would depend on the person i think. |
Originally Posted by Lazyass
(Post 17742032)
Saddle tilt isn't rocket science. If your privates hurt tilt it down slightly. If you're sliding forward tilt it up. When both issues are eliminated you're good. If not, look for a saddle with a different shape and/or width that fits you. There's no need to overthink it.
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If my professional fitter ever suggested I tilt my saddle even a hair, he would no longer be my professional fitter!
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
(Post 17742032)
Saddle tilt isn't rocket science. If your privates hurt tilt it down slightly. If you're sliding forward tilt it up. When both issues are eliminated you're good. If not, look for a saddle with a different shape and/or width that fits you. There's no need to overthink it.
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
(Post 17742015)
Rhetorical question, not seeking an answer.
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The only rationale for tilting the saddle would be to compensate for a frame/stem/seatpost combo that otherwise is the wrong size for the rider.
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I, actually, level my saddles with a level, and it's always perfect.
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Originally Posted by Wanderer
(Post 17742215)
I, actually, level my saddles with a level, and it's always perfect.
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Levels are expensive. I get by with a book and a glass of water. ;)
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Originally Posted by Wanderer
(Post 17742215)
I, actually, level my saddles with a level, and it's always perfect.
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Originally Posted by RoderWrench
(Post 17742250)
I hope you check that the floor is level first, otherwise you're not doing anything.
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Originally Posted by RoderWrench
(Post 17742250)
I hope you check that the floor is level first, otherwise you're not doing anything.
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Originally Posted by Wanderer
(Post 17742261)
I usually do it in the kitchen ---- and its so flat that Queen Isabella would be proud!
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Yes
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Originally Posted by RR3
(Post 17742184)
What about the saddle tension screw....you know like on a real saddle. Sometimes loosen it will keep the "Boys" happy and keep you from sliding forward.
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Originally Posted by RoderWrench
(Post 17742250)
I hope you check that the floor is level first, otherwise you're not doing anything.
Both are verified with a bubble level in my process, with the inevitable exception of the Brooks B-17 on my town bike which requires the traditional "just so" up-tilt at the nose. And while you are at it set drop bar ends parallel, or nearly so to the verified level floor. -Bandera |
Originally Posted by rebel1916
(Post 17742543)
Many of us prefer not to ride saddles that weigh more than our frames in order to be "real".
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Originally Posted by RR3
(Post 17742598)
Where do I get that sub 380 gram frame?
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