A Bike for the Kid
 

Hey all,

I've just got done ordering some parts to build up a retired frame and make my son his first road bike. The idea was to keep the project on the cheap, get a few parts that would let him try the quick side of biking. As a family we're not athletes but I have stuck with riding since I was young and even after extended times off, have come to appreciate the value of having it as a continuous thread in my life. Maybe it'll be a similar experience for him, he certainly has my feet and legs. Haha.

The build is supposed to be a cheap one. He'd get to pretend that it doesn't matter if he didn't like it. I'd shrug it off as NBD. This would retain the balance that we need in our lives. He's turning 14, it's complicated. The 56cm frame is from a Specialized Allez Elite triple (2004). It's too big for him (5' 7" today but he grew 3" last year) but not by a lot. The crack in the head tube was pointed out to me by a buddy. That was 5 or 6 years ago and I didn't seriously consider reinforcing the area at the time. Instead I retired the frame but have come back to it for this build. The perfect opportunity to put it to use as the seed for a build and there's no point in pretending THAT isn't important. Haha

I want to know if anyone's got a really good solution, short of cutting and welding, for strengthening the cracked head tube. Or maybe you think that the hose clamp is the best. (I've looked at the collar shown at the bottom of the page but it wouldn't fit even if you wanted that much security clamping the tube.)

Build Materials list

Specialized Allez Elite Aluminum (2004) 56cm, customized Sitting in Basement (SIB)
Lerway Carbon Fiber fork w/ aluminum steerer (Amazon house brand?$**)
Aheadset Threadless Headset SIB
Salvaged alloy mtb stem and cheap aluminum handlebars (26mm clamp), SIB
Paul Components - Thumbies ($**)
Shimano SL-BS79 (Dura-Ace) 10-speed bar end shifters ($**)
Shimano 105 39/53 (5501) crankset SIB
Shimano BB-5500 Octalink bottom bracket SIB
Shimano FD-R440 Front Derailleur SIB
Shimano Tiagra 4601 GS rear derailleur ($**)
Shimano Tiagra 10-speed cassette (12-30) ($**)
Shimano CN-5701 10-speed chain ($**)

Origin8 Brake Levers Road Proforce Sr Black/Black ($**)
Shimano Ultegra BR-6600 calipers (CL $**)
Origin8 Sport Road Pads ($**)

Sun Ringle Venus 700C 32h rims ($**)
Shimano Tiagra 4600 hubs front and rear ($**)
Spokes 14 gauge silver ($**)
Nipples (LBS $*)
Tubes (LBS $*)
Tires 700c x 23 SIB

Nashbar ribbon, camo blk/gry ($*)
Comfort pedals SIB
Brake cables/housing, star nut/installation, (LBS $**)

Nashbar Seat post - 300mm ($**)
Nashbar Seat post clamp ($*)
SDG Components Matrix Bel-Air RL Cro-Mo Road/MTB Saddle Black/Gray ($**)

Running build cost $591 (5/16/15)


http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...psxv6ubf3c.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...psesd2umhr.png[/QUOTE]

moved to mechanics

my wife's 2003 Allez also had a crack in teh headtube. Specialized replaced it with a new frame.

You're putting a lot of money into a bike that is too big for your son with a cracked headtube.

Here is a 54cm Specialized Allez frame with misc parts for $80. Other frames or bikes that could be rebuilt will show up on Craigslist from time to time.

As far as the hose clamp... I don't know. It would seem like it would take quite a bit to rip the headset out of the side of the top tube. But, at the same time, you wouldn't want to compromise the steering. And, it just plain looks funky.

I wonder if the headset originally was too big for the head tube causing the cracks.

I'm a bit spoiled by having a lathe. I've ridden a bike with a crack in the lower headset seat for several years. But I machined a steel collar to press fit to go around the outside of the head tube. Top headset seat takes less force than the lower, but I still don't think I'd be comfortable passing a hose clamp repaired bike on to another rider.
The clamp in the pic looks a lot sturdier, but it has to be a good fit to work as desired.
Either way, building up on an obviously damaged frame is something I'll only do for own use, and if I have all the parts already.

Building a kid a bike with a cracked head tube and a hose clamp is probably not the best way to help him develop any passion for the sport.

Thanks for the thoughts guy! I been thinking about these things too. I discount any safety concerns mostly because I'm on the lookout.

The cost of the components is substantial but not excessive. I'll have built a 10-speed double bike for less than $500 that will be light and durable(?). About what a xBox One cost when you had to get it with the Kinect. I'm going to build the wheels (a first).

I want to continue to look into solutions in part because I am concerned what my son will think of it with a hose tie. It isn't a stigma to him because he knows his dad saves stuff from the scrap heap and he's already been the beneficiary of my finds. He also knows that we need to save money for other things. He's seen it and hasn't been repulsed. But it IS a hose clamp.

I could have a lathe but I wouldn't know how to use it. Are you interested in a project? (JK)

These cracks come up from time to time in BF discussions. It's a flaw but there's no suggestion, that I've read, that it leads to a rapid failure. Handling issues, if any, will be sorted out long before he rides it.

There's no recourse through Spesh. I bought it second-hand and that means there's no warranty. No biggie.

Fit and a different frame... How do you fit a moving target? Haha He grew six inches in two years and is on track to continue that pace this year. At 5' 6-1/2" today, he'll be 5' 8" in the fall. If the bike is too big this early summer, it may start to feel right in the fall and by next year it will be a fit. I'll have to slam every I could see building this around a 54cm frame but the cost would have to be right, darn near free would be about right.

I'll keep googling for a more durable/aesthetic solution for reinforcement. The frame isn't riding off, scot-free, just yet.

I read about half of the first post and it seems to still be in the wrong forum. Maybe try a psychology forum.

I know, right? You're funny.

Check out the Velo Cheapo Contest:
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...stick-pig.html
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-favorite.html
(Plus previous years).

I must admit that I failed miserably, coming in at about $400, but had the only Titanium Litespeed bike. Others seem to have been better at scrounging parts. Hopefully I'll get a jump on the contest for next year :thumb:

Anyway, theoretically it is possible to build a nice bike on a shoestring budget.

Those that did best either restored a cheap Craigslist junker, or salvaged most of the parts off of a donor bike. Buying it one piece at a time can nickel and dime one to death.

Do you have the collar?
How close of a fit is it?

Do you have machinist's calipers?

Any trips planned south?

If the collar is close, then trimming it would be very quick and easy. I could probably do it as a fun project... with only the cost of shipping. Making a collar from scratch is possible, but would be more of a pain.

Excellent idea to "practice" on somebody else's bike.

What I will say is that I think my brother and father built the wheels for our little 24" "racing" 5-speed. But, I have done essentially 100% of my bike maintenance since I was about 10. I'm sure I was building wheels in my early teens.

Here is the truing stand that Dad built... years ago. A pencil or pen is the truing guide.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=450578

I never know if building wheels is actually worth it, although you can get exactly what you want... more or less. But, I managed to score two pretty nice wheelsets on Craigslist last week for $50 each set. Good to 10s, I think.

Anyway, I would encourage you to involve your son as much as possible with this project.

I couldn't build a bike to save my soul on the sort of budgets that the pros do it. But I do own a particular Spesh in the right spacing to build a nice roadie. I updated the original post, look for type in blue that shows that there's a bunch of stuff that's been sitting around.

I haven't bought the collar because the width of the collar is not compatible with the angle of the head tube.* I'm going to go out on a limb here but, I think there's little threat and I'll ride, essentially, with my hand on his saddle.

The wheel build will be fine. I'm good at this sort of thing and have done wheel maintenance since the 70's. I have a pair of Handspun DT Swiss RR465 rims laced to 32h Dura Ace hubs. I'm going to copy these and use them as my guide for the work. I've also been doing research. Still, it's a benchmark of sorts.

I'll fashion something using the fork from Amazon that arrives on Tues for the stand.

Stay tuned.

* The head tube is not of uniform width because it is designed for an integrated headset. Unlike a steel tube that would be the same width from top to bottom, the head tube flairs to the top (and bottom). This flaring makes it impossible to "fit" a constant-sized collar of the "pipe clamp" variety that I've so far identified.

A bike for the kid had a big day today. In a priceless moment, I watched my son ride the length of the alley and his face changed from uncertainty to joy in a matter of pedal strokes. He was concerned because the size was intimidating and those skinny tires... They weren't concerns for long, we started high five'ing every 10 minutes for a hour or more. He keeps telling me how much he likes it.

The build is in a temporary state of completion. I've loaned some parts from my winter bike and we're waiting for shifters, brake levers, and bar tape. A new saddle and a shorter seat post will further aid adjustments. But man! As I rode behind him, he wasn't rocking while pedaling and was comfortable getting out of the saddle when climbing.

Sorry about continuing to babble about it.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...psli6mmkca.jpg

That looks to have come out well. I suppose you could always get a nashbar frame and move the parts over for a completely safe ride.

I finally got my 1985 Trek 500 just the way I want it; then this happened this morning...

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=452107

I guess I get to start over...

SA

That is so completely true! It will remain an option and in the meantime, I've established a safe torque setting on the hose clamp, so I can consistently remove and tighten the band so that my inspections will be easier.

I suppose the kid wouldn't be smiling if a big ol' logging truck were hauling up behind you when you took the pic. Haha. Sorry about the bike. Happy that you'll have to start over.

We would hope not...
:)

SA

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Dura Ace, 105, Tiagra components? Building a wheelset from scratch?
Our definitions of 'on the cheap' are way different. Your kid's 'cheap' bike is hundreds more than anything I have built.
Hopefully the frame stays safe- there are tons of used 56cm bikes/frames for under $100 that are in good shape and would most likely come with components that would reduce your buy lost and overall cost...if you are looking to save a few pennies and have a frame that isn't cracked.


Nice build so far.

I agree that there are so many different ways to skin the fruit, so to speak. I meant cheap in comparison to buying a new 10-speed racing bike from a LBS. I'm aware of what I've gained and what I've given up. Btw, the expression "cracked frame" has a ring to it that doesn't do justice to the tiny head tube crack I've encircled with a band clamp.

I take your point. There is no reason to spend $600 cobbling together a bike from new and old parts. The only possible reason is to do it out of the desire to play with bikes. I can live with that and keeping the build well under $1000 is a victory of sorts. I had enough parts sitting around in the basement to build 1/2 a road bike. I got the Ultegra brakes on the cheap and will try to offset the cost ($35) with the sale of the old 600 ex brakes and levers I'd originally planned to use. Tiagra is a value group. The combination of Dura Ace BAR END shifters (mounted on Paul Components Thumbies), Tiagra rear derailleur and wide-range cassette make for a solid 10-speed shifting solution. The gear range (12-30 combined with the 39/53 cranks) suit the steep hill we live on top of and surrounding hills. When he falls, an inevitability, there will be a pair of cheap brake levers and not pricey brifters, hanging out on the corners to take the rashing. Experience has taught me to consider the cost of crashing into the overall build scheme. Can you tell I've given this too much thought? Haha

It'll be pretty easy to keep an eye on things, so regular inspections and feedback from its pilot should satisfy the most serious of worries. My son said yesterday, "I'll probably still be riding this in 10 year's time." I doubt that but so far so good.

I might have scoured the internet for used discounts and as I wrote earlier, I hold out no hope of competing in terms of "bang for the buck" build value. But I like putting it together and making the wheels was great fun.

Glad you like it.

Cale, nice looking ride. Looks a little big for a 5'7" rider. And trim those cables.
And... LOL, those log trucks don't give too much space....the bad is the crap flying off the back in your face.

Most better bike manufacturers offer a lifetime warranty of their frames, and the shop swaps out the components at no charge.

It amazes me how many people who write in on this forum do not take this advice...

You mitigated the risk of dinged brifters by spending, what, $200 on DA + Paul + Origin8? :)

Just curious - did you consider Gevenalle as a more crash-worthy but better-integrated alternative to brifters? That seems to be their raison d'etre (and at about the same cost).

Earl Grey beat me to it; here's my review of Gevenalle when they started out as Retroshift. That might save you some $$ compared to parts including words like "Paul" and "Dura-Ace".

I agree with most others that you're not really doing an on-the-cheap build. Just yesterday I bought for my 14-yo son a 2010 Specialized Allez Sport (9sp tiagra/sora triple mix) for $400 off CL (and even that's above blue book, b/c of new tires).

But hey, the joy of working on bikes has its own value, which is more valuable for some than for others. What you really want to do is get your son in on the building, so he appreciates ("earns") his bike more, and will be better able and motivated to properly care for it in the future.

I'm getting to it. Shifters tomorrow so I'll trim after installing those. Lol

Great picture btw :-)

Those lifetime warrantys only apply to the original buyer /owner. That's not me so no warranty coverage. This much I know. Haha

A Nashbar alloy frame is $100, less on sale. It will remain an option.