How should I proceed?
 

So, last year I got a Cannondale saeco (2004?) from my friend for free. The bike had not been ridden in quite some time, so I got a decent tune up with new cables and such. It still needs some further TLC. The bike is a bit too big for me, I have the seat all the way down so that I don't over stretch my legs, and the reach is pretty uncomfortable. I just don't have the money to buy a new bike right now.

So my question is.

Should I put more money into it replaces old and worn out parts, as well as getting parts to help make the fit as good as I can?
OR
Just tough it out and ride it till it breaks while saving money for a new bike?

Any suggestions would be more than welcome, also, criticism is fine.

Do bare minimum to make fit tolerable, and sell ASAP.

Thats what I was thinking. Where would be the best place to get a grasp on how much I could sell it for?

Thanks!

If it doesn't fit sell it. I understand that you might need a bike at the moment, so do bare minimum, sell then get a good fitting bike. Will make all the difference.

If the bike is that big, there's really not much you can do to make it fit better. Definitely sell it. An ill-fitting bike is pretty much the worst thing you want in cycling- right up there with crashes and flat tires!

Look for that year and model on Bicyclebluebook.com; search Craigslist nationally [Google: "Cannondale Saeco" site:craigslist.org"]; search Ebay completed items...that should give you an idea of a ballpark figure of what it's worth. Post pics and details here, and many will offer helpful and realistic opinions, too.

Cannondale and Saeco particularly have a great following. Considering you got the bike for free you should easily turn a profit. $3-500 depending on condition, size and your market. That should be a good start toward a bike that fits

Thanks for all the input guys! I'll be saving a little money than selling it.

Being a "superClyde" but still being able to push my limits while working out and on the bike(although not nearly as fast as I want to be) . I feel like I'll need more of a higher quality bike with better components. I was figuring I would plan on spending around 2k for my next bike, Probably something on sale from the preceding year. Does this sound like it would get me to a good bike?

Given that I don't know the condition of the bike and it's components, but perhaps you could source a cheap frame, or a trade for yours with someone using the components you already have?

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...pszdmpiqsc.jpg

Here is the bike.

$2k will give you plenty of options. I paid $1700 for my 2011 CAAD 10-4 back in April '11, and that was well worth the money. I've seen leftover CAAD 10s with Shimano 105 go for less than that, and eleven-speed 105 is a great groupset.

That is a truly great friend to give you a nice bike like that. Hope you appreciate them for it....you should have no issue trading that for a like condition, fitting bike. What is it, a 54?

Im not sure of the exact size. It measures about 24 inches from the center of the BB to the top of the seat tube.

and yes, he is a great friend. Like a brother to me.

You could definitely put a shorter stem on there for now. Might also consider selling the frameset only - that 7800 Dura Ace is great stuff.

Find someone with a similar bike but it too small for them. Make a trade.

I'm starting to like this idea more. I never looked that close to the parts of it. The shifting has always been nice, but I assumed it was an entry level. Realizing that it is Dura Ace, I might just try to find a smaller frame for sale.

How should I go about finding what size frame I want? I have little baby legs(≈29" inseam) but I have a longer upper body( I'm 6')

Do you wear 28" or 30" jeans/slacks? Typically your 'cycling' inseam is a bit longer if properly measured. Most of my pants are 30" but my standover and cycling inseam is more like 31-31.5". Either way, it seems like the sloping top tube design of most modern bikes will work well for you.

Wow! That's a nice-looking bike!

You're going to have some trouble there; your proportions are definitely outside of the norm. You're going to need a smallish bike to accommodate your standover-height (probably a 52 or 53cm) with a long stem, to accommodate your long torso. Are your arms long? You're best bet is to try out some options before buying anything. This is one case where I would recommend going to a bike shop which has a competent fitter (Doesn't have to be a fancy expensive fitter) and pay him set you up properly on some bikes that you can test-ride, and see what works for you. (Don't just a stationary fitting on a trainer or stand- make sure they actually let you test ride the fit they suggest, so you can see if it actually works)- Then you will know what to look for when shopping for a bike. Bikes with unusually long top tubes will be your friend- Maybe someone on here can recommend some?

funny.. roughly my dimensions. I would think a 54 or 56 would fit, which likely makes that a 58 or 60?

Should be able to look at Vintage Cannondale - Information and Catalogs for Cannondales and find rough geometry chart to confirm.

Keep the 7800 dura ace, find a used CAAD frame on sale, have a shop swap parts over (or if you're mechanically inclined, do it yourself).

A 54 or 56 has a standover height a few inches too tall for him. The bike he has now looks like either a 54 or 56.

I'd bet that Saeco is a 58 - no way it's a 54. He'd be fine on some 54-55's, depending on the slope of the top tube. Also depending whether 28" is the actual cycling inseam.

Lemonds run relatively longer in the top tube. Jamis and Allez as well. Or the extra slope on some Madone, Synapse, etc.

Yeah, I was thinking of a sloping top tube, too- but the only thing is, if he wants a good aero position, he's not going to get it if he's using a sloping tube to compensate.

I had heard that the old Lemonds were known for long top tubes; is that still true? Long TT and long stem should do 'em.

He said he's a 'superclyde', so aero position probably isn't the most important thing in the world. I see your point though. It would wise to make sure the headtube isn't too long (like Roubaix or older Synapse) - as getting low enough hands could be a problem.

The older LeMonds aren't sloped as much. I don't know if newer ones retain the relatively longer top tube.

Wait - I didn't realize the OP was around the Portland area. I might be able to help you out a bit, farhat.