Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

50/34

Old 05-18-15, 06:31 AM
  #1  
Shuffleman
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Shuffleman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,296

Bikes: Colnago CLX,GT Karakoram,Giant Revel, Kona Honk_ Tonk

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
50/34

I currently ride a 50/34 in Florida. The only hills that I see are over passes. I never paid much attention but lately I have noticed that when going down a hill I can hit a point where I need another gear. I can also hit this point on sprints but it is not like I can ride that pace for long. In addition I am always on the large ring. I never, ever, touch the small ring. Is there a better set up for this type of riding?
Shuffleman is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 06:40 AM
  #2  
redfooj
pluralis majestatis
 
redfooj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: you rope
Posts: 4,206

Bikes: a DuhRosa

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 537 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Yes

53/39
redfooj is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 06:43 AM
  #3  
indyfabz
Senior Member
 
indyfabz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 30,276
Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13305 Post(s)
Liked 5,944 Times in 3,049 Posts
Originally Posted by redfooj View Post
Yes

53/39
+1.
indyfabz is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 06:44 AM
  #4  
JerrySTL
Senior Member
 
JerrySTL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Near St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 1,467

Bikes: Giant Defy Advanced, Breezer Doppler Team, Schwinn Twinn Tandem, Windsor Tourist, 1954 JC Higgens

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 6 Posts
Always in the big chain ring even when starting off? Just hearing that makes my knees hurt! What rpm are you spinning at when you think you need another gear? If you are a masher, like 70 rpm, spin faster. It's better for you.

If you are spinning out at 90+ rpm downhill, I recommend coasting. Once you are above 30 mph, you're better off getting aero and coasting. The exception to this is if you are racing or don't mind expending a lot of extra energy for a little speed gain.

However you could get another crankset with something like 53/39 gears. You'd probably need a new, longer chain.

What's your cassette like? If the smallest isn't a 12, you would get a cassette with a 12. You might be able to go down to an 11; however, there can be some clearance and shifting issues that small.
JerrySTL is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 06:45 AM
  #5  
mobilemail
Senior Member
 
mobilemail's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Gateway to the West
Posts: 772

Bikes: You mean this week?

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Show-off. :-)
mobilemail is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 07:05 AM
  #6  
bikepro
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 1,916

Bikes: Look 585

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Shuffleman View Post
I currently ride a 50/34 in Florida. The only hills that I see are over passes. I never paid much attention but lately I have noticed that when going down a hill I can hit a point where I need another gear. I can also hit this point on sprints but it is not like I can ride that pace for long. In addition I am always on the large ring. I never, ever, touch the small ring. Is there a better set up for this type of riding?
Depending on your crankset brand, you might be able to get larger chainrings. Perhaps a 52/36. Or, you might go to a smaller cog set. Perhaps a 12/21, 12/23 or 12/25. This would give you better gearing with close gear spacing. Also, by switching cogs, you don't need a longer chain, but you may need to shorten the old one.
bikepro is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 07:18 AM
  #7  
MRT2
Senior Member
 
MRT2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 6,319

Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 139 Posts
At 90 rpm in your biggest gear (50 - 11), that means you are going 32 mph. Maybe you should consider turning pro, and I am not joking.
MRT2 is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 07:23 AM
  #8  
DXchulo
Upgrading my engine
 
DXchulo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alamogordo
Posts: 6,218
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by MRT2 View Post
At 90 rpm in your biggest gear (50 - 11), that means you are going 32 mph. Maybe you should consider turning pro, and I am not joking.
He said downhill and briefly in a sprint, which isn't unbelievable (especially with a tailwind). He also didn't mention whether his smallest cog is an 11 or a 12.

Anyway, in FL you're probably best with a 53/39. There are also some 52/36 options out there, but you might as well go all the way.
DXchulo is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 07:38 AM
  #9  
merlinextraligh
pan y agua
 
merlinextraligh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 30,774

Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1129 Post(s)
Liked 257 Times in 139 Posts
I think the OP needs to learn to spin. My main road bike is set up with 50/34, and an 11-23 cassette.

I live in Florida, race Cat 3, and even win an occassional sprint.

Admittedly, I put the 50/34 crankset on for a race in Colorado, but I've never felt any need for a standard crank racing in Florida.

I've done P 1,2,3 crits with that setup . I've also done the Race of the West on it, where you have a 15% descent (admittedly for a very short distance). Gearing has never been an issue

50/11 at 120rpm (a not unreasonable sprinting cadence) is 44 mph. 53/11 takes you up to 46 mph.

As for descending in Florida, by the time you'd hit a speed that you spun out, the hill is over. Additionally, if you're descending over 40mph, you're typically better off tucking, coasting, and recovering, given the tremendous amount of power it takes to raise your speed 2mph at that speed.

If you're losing sprints by a few meters because you're spun out at 45mph, you might need a 53/39 setup.

Otherwise, I think you're wasiting your money buying a new crankset to go to a 53/39.

If you really want bigger gears, 52/36 chainrings on your existing crank would at least be more cost effective.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
merlinextraligh is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 07:44 AM
  #10  
Andy Somnifac 
Annoyed.
 
Andy Somnifac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,218

Bikes: Siegler CCR, Lynskey R210 Custom, Felt S22 TT, Raleigh RX 2.0 CX, GT Helion Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times in 57 Posts
Originally Posted by MRT2 View Post
At 90 rpm in your biggest gear (50 - 11), that means you are going 32 mph. Maybe you should consider turning pro, and I am not joking.
32mph, even for for an amateur, is not exceptionally fast even on flats, for short periods.

If you're spinning out in a sprint, yes, a larger front chainring (assuming an 11 on the back) could be in order. But you don't say what cadence you're spinning out at. Depending on what you're spinning out at, you may be better served training that, rather than buying a new crankset/chainring.
__________________
Back on the bike since June 2020...
Andy Somnifac is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 07:51 AM
  #11  
Phil_gretz
Journeyman Bike Commuter
 
Phil_gretz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 6,645

Bikes: '71 Jeunet 640, '79 Peugeot PXN10LE, '88 Fuji Saratoga, '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '16 Motobecane Gran Premio Elite, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1302 Post(s)
Liked 1,177 Times in 634 Posts
OP, I would advise changing the small chainring. Also, check your technique. Can you really stay in the large chainring under all conditions in FL with the optimum cadence? Use a gear ratio calculator with a graphic output (link below) and put in your rear cassette cog sizes and front chainring sizes. Look at the output as you change the small chainring size. Find the gear ranges that overlap efficiently and give you what you need. It's not that hard.

Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator


Keep the 50T large ring unless you can spin that out in your top gear. So, maybe a 36T, 37T or 38T will do it. Your shifts between rings will also be crisper.
Phil_gretz is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 08:09 AM
  #12  
Drew Eckhardt 
Senior Member
 
Drew Eckhardt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Posts: 6,339

Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 547 Post(s)
Liked 314 Times in 220 Posts
Originally Posted by Shuffleman View Post
I currently ride a 50/34 in Florida. The only hills that I see are over passes. I never paid much attention but lately I have noticed that when going down a hill I can hit a point where I need another gear. I can also hit this point on sprints but it is not like I can ride that pace for long. In addition I am always on the large ring. I never, ever, touch the small ring. Is there a better set up for this type of riding?
Run a tight cassette in back (11-21, 12-23, or 13-25/26 10 cogs; 11-23 or 12-25 11) instead of giving up spacing for big cogs that you don't need because you have a small ring.

Learn to pedal faster. Even 50x13 is good for cruising at 30 MPH plus sprinting over 40, 50x12 is bigger than the 52x13 Eddy Merckx used to dominate the spring classics, and 50x11 is bigger than many EPO powered pros used until 10 cogs on back allowed more range than 12-23 without a two-tooth jump below the 17 cog.

A 39 inner ring is a better choice than 34 because it limits front shifting.

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 05-21-15 at 04:36 PM.
Drew Eckhardt is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 08:20 AM
  #13  
merlinextraligh
pan y agua
 
merlinextraligh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 30,774

Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1129 Post(s)
Liked 257 Times in 139 Posts
Originally Posted by Phil_gretz View Post
. Can you really stay in the large chainring under all conditions in FL with the optimum cadence? [/url]

The answer to that for most people is pretty much yes. 50/21 at 80rpm is 10 mph. Even in most head winds, most folks can hold 10mph.

And most "climbs" are 60-70 vertical feet and over in less than 2 minutes. If you can't do those in the big ring, you're going to get dropped on most group rides.

Only time I would use the small chain ring would be a massive headwind, warming up/cooling down, recovery ride.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
merlinextraligh is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 08:29 AM
  #14  
Shuffleman
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Shuffleman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,296

Bikes: Colnago CLX,GT Karakoram,Giant Revel, Kona Honk_ Tonk

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bikepro View Post
Depending on your crankset brand, you might be able to get larger chainrings. Perhaps a 52/36. Or, you might go to a smaller cog set. Perhaps a 12/21, 12/23 or 12/25. This would give you better gearing with close gear spacing. Also, by switching cogs, you don't need a longer chain, but you may need to shorten the old one.
I am riding on Campy Athena

Originally Posted by MRT2 View Post
At 90 rpm in your biggest gear (50 - 11), that means you are going 32 mph. Maybe you should consider turning pro, and I am not joking.
I am 47 and not even a racer, so that is not an issue or even an idea in my head. On a side note, I am primarily a competitive distance runner. That is my passion so my endurance and cardio levels are pretty high already. I did say that they were short distances and down hills though. As an example, there is an overpass that we like to sprint up and down. I am getting stuck at 32.8mph (going down). For 6 straight weeks I have not been able to break that barrier. When I went riding up in N Georgia there were some much larger hills. I did notice there that I could get faster by coasting but the same thing occured. If I wanted to pedal any further there was simply nothing left.

Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
32mph, even for for an amateur, is not exceptionally fast even on flats, for short periods.

Thanks. And as stated, this was for short bursts and not the norm. I am comfortable riding with a group in the 20-21 mph range. At 22-23mph I can hang for awhile but it will deplete me faster. I have no idea if those numbers are good or not and I really do not care. It is simply where my group tends to be. My main point was to see if a change out was needed or worth it.

If you're spinning out in a sprint, yes, a larger front chainring (assuming an 11 on the back) could be in order. But you don't say what cadence you're spinning out at. Depending on what you're spinning out at, you may be better served training that, rather than buying a new crankset/chainring.
I try to keep my cadence right around 90 at all times. I am running a 12-25 cassette.

I do appreciate all the responses. I am sure that I could stay with my current setup and be fine. As stated, I do live in N. Florida where hills are not common or even close to common. It is rare that I ever hit that stage of pedaling out. I was just curious if there was a more optimal setup than what I am currently running.

Last edited by Shuffleman; 05-18-15 at 08:37 AM.
Shuffleman is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 08:58 AM
  #15  
BoSoxYacht
Banned
 
BoSoxYacht's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: take your time, enjoy the scenery, it will be there when you get to it
Posts: 7,281

Bikes: 07 IRO BFGB fixed-gear, 07 Pedal Force RS

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by merlinextraligh View Post
I think the OP needs to learn to spin. My main road bike is set up with 50/34, and an 11-23 cassette.

I live in Florida, race Cat 3, and even win an occassional sprint.

Admittedly, I put the 50/34 crankset on for a race in Colorado, but I've never felt any need for a standard crank racing in Florida.

I've done P 1,2,3 crits with that setup . I've also done the Race of the West on it, where you have a 15% descent (admittedly for a very short distance). Gearing has never been an issue

50/11 at 120rpm (a not unreasonable sprinting cadence) is 44 mph. 53/11 takes you up to 46 mph.

As for descending in Florida, by the time you'd hit a speed that you spun out, the hill is over. Additionally, if you're descending over 40mph, you're typically better off tucking, coasting, and recovering, given the tremendous amount of power it takes to raise your speed 2mph at that speed.

If you're losing sprints by a few meters because you're spun out at 45mph, you might need a 53/39 setup.

Otherwise, I think you're wasiting your money buying a new crankset to go to a 53/39.

If you really want bigger gears, 52/36 chainrings on your existing crank would at least be more cost effective.
the OP should pay attention to Merlinextralight. What he said makes sense.
BoSoxYacht is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 09:01 AM
  #16  
Andy Somnifac 
Annoyed.
 
Andy Somnifac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,218

Bikes: Siegler CCR, Lynskey R210 Custom, Felt S22 TT, Raleigh RX 2.0 CX, GT Helion Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times in 57 Posts
Originally Posted by Shuffleman View Post
I try to keep my cadence right around 90 at all times. I am running a 12-25 cassette.
Like @merlinextraligh said, if you can spin up to 120rpm in your 50/12, you'd be doing 39.39mph (w/ 25c tires). If you're not hitting that kind of cadence, you have plenty of room to improve there. Improving your ability to spin is far cheaper (and going to benefit you more) than a bigger gear.
__________________
Back on the bike since June 2020...
Andy Somnifac is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 09:07 AM
  #17  
10 Wheels
Galveston County Texas
 
10 Wheels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In The Wind
Posts: 31,938

Bikes: 2010 Catrike Expedition, 02 GTO, 2011 Magnum

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1019 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times in 264 Posts
Try a cassette with a 11T-something.
__________________
Fred "The Real Fred"

10 Wheels is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 09:13 AM
  #18  
merlinextraligh
pan y agua
 
merlinextraligh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 30,774

Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1129 Post(s)
Liked 257 Times in 139 Posts
Originally Posted by Shuffleman View Post
. As an example, there is an overpass that we like to sprint up and down. I am getting stuck at 32.8mph (going down). For 6 straight weeks I have not been able to break that barrier. When I went riding up in N Georgia there were some much larger hills. I did notice there that I could get faster by coasting but the same thing occured. If I wanted to pedal any further there was simply nothing left.
Couple of solutions here. First you do need to work on your spin, 100 rpm will get you 35mph in the 50/12. 110 rpm will get you almost to 40 mph.

Second, get more aero. Full tuck will definitely make you faster than that, with little pedaling. Failing that, just in the drops, elbows deeply bent, knees in, and pedals level will make you faster descending.

Third, pedal hard over the top. Your terminal velocity down a hill will be affected as much or more by how fast you go at the top, as by where you spin out. So bust it over the top of the climb, go as hard as you can go until your spun up to 100rpm, then tuck in and enjoy the fruits of your momementum.

Originally Posted by Shuffleman View Post
. . I am running a 12-25 cassette.

I.
Going to an 11-25 picks up 3mph at 80rpm, and really doesn't cost you much in spacing (other than the loss of the 16 cog).

You might try that next time you need to replace a worn cassette. That's essentially a no cost change as oppossed to hundreds for a new crankset.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
merlinextraligh is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 09:33 AM
  #19  
Marvelousmarkie
Senior Member
 
Marvelousmarkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Another thumbs up for Merlin's comments. Spot on.
Marvelousmarkie is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 09:44 AM
  #20  
ThermionicScott 
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 20,291

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers)

Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2847 Post(s)
Liked 841 Times in 585 Posts
+1 to spinning a little faster. I hit 32.8 MPH (while pedalling) all the time... in my 50/13, 48/13, sometimes 48/14, and occasionally in a 45/16, depending on the bike. And learning how to turn the pedals faster costs nothing compared to new cassettes and cranksets.

I'm not a fan of the huge jump in a 50/34, but thankfully the 53"-110" range on the big ring is all you need for Florida.
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 09:47 AM
  #21  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,599

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,318 Times in 828 Posts
There not much climbing on Paris > Roubaix, the Pros use a 53-46 on that Race. (7t difference)



Florida, Never use the little gear ? replace the 34t with a 44t? 50-44 pair (6t difference)

Last edited by fietsbob; 05-18-15 at 11:30 AM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 09:55 AM
  #22  
Shuffleman
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Shuffleman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,296

Bikes: Colnago CLX,GT Karakoram,Giant Revel, Kona Honk_ Tonk

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by merlinextraligh View Post
Couple of solutions here. First you do need to work on your spin, 100 rpm will get you 35mph in the 50/12. 110 rpm will get you almost to 40 mph.

Second, get more aero. Full tuck will definitely make you faster than that, with little pedaling. Failing that, just in the drops, elbows deeply bent, knees in, and pedals level will make you faster descending.

Third, pedal hard over the top. Your terminal velocity down a hill will be affected as much or more by how fast you go at the top, as by where you spin out. So bust it over the top of the climb, go as hard as you can go until your spun up to 100rpm, then tuck in and enjoy the fruits of your momementum.



Going to an 11-25 picks up 3mph at 80rpm, and really doesn't cost you much in spacing (other than the loss of the 16 cog).

You might try that next time you need to replace a worn cassette. That's essentially a no cost change as oppossed to hundreds for a new crankset.
That is certainly different advice that I thought I would get. I am definitely going to try this on my next long ride on Sat. It will be interesting to see the results as I normally do not pay that much attention to those details. Thanks.
Shuffleman is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 11:16 AM
  #23  
Andy Somnifac 
Annoyed.
 
Andy Somnifac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,218

Bikes: Siegler CCR, Lynskey R210 Custom, Felt S22 TT, Raleigh RX 2.0 CX, GT Helion Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times in 57 Posts
Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
There not much climbing on Paris > Roubaix, the Pros use a 53-46 on that Race.

replace the 34t with a 44t?
If we're comparing ourselves to what the pros do, especially in a punishing race like PR, we should all just hang up our bibs.
__________________
Back on the bike since June 2020...
Andy Somnifac is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 11:19 AM
  #24  
rms13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 1 Post
SRAM brings 1x to the road with new Force 1 and Rival 1 groupsets | Cyclingnews.com
rms13 is offline  
Old 05-18-15, 11:38 AM
  #25  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,599

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,318 Times in 828 Posts
no but northern France is just a little bit hillier than Florida , rather than a whole crankset swap, just use a bigger inner chainring..

that Sram 1 by is said to be a 44t, and the new cassettes a 10t high.
fietsbob is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.