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Downgrading

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Downgrading

Old 05-29-15, 02:08 PM
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Downgrading

So how many of you get something fancy but then decide to downgrade for whatever reason?

From the beginning my cx/road bike has been in a spiral of downgrading of parts. First I changed the 20/24 spoke wheels to 28/32 spoke wheels, which were much more durable (self built) but also a lot heavier. Weight doesn't really bother me that much though.
I had to replace the crankset to higher end FSA but now I'm dreaming of getting a tiagra crankset (ok, 105 would be fine as well, but tiagra is cheaper). Sadly the frame is BB30 which means that all cranksets are insanely expensive when compared to the BSA stuff. Not that I mind the BB30 in itself. It's seriously a good system but just so dang expensive.
I now have a Fizik antares seat on it, just ordered a brooks B17 imperial (not sure if this is a downgrade since seats are so personal)
And now I switched the carbon seatpost to aluminum, because
1) peace of mind. Tightening the collar bolt was stressful to say the least. And I had to use friction paste every time (toothpaste, works much better than the actual carbon paste), and as I like to fiddle with the height now and then I had to do all that fairly often.
2) ease of use. Like I said, before = paste, now = no paste. And tightening is much easier as I don't need to use so much torque as aluminum against aluminum has some dang friction.
It is heavier though. Carbon post and saddle combo was 450 grams while the new post in itself is 350 grams.
I don't have reservations against carbon durability per se, but what it does not take well is compression, especially in a clamp, especially when the part is so ridiculously light. Why did I get it in the first place is a mystery...
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Old 05-29-15, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by elcruxio
So how many of you get something fancy but then decide to downgrade for whatever reason?

From the beginning my cx/road bike has been in a spiral of downgrading of parts. First I changed the 20/24 spoke wheels to 28/32 spoke wheels, which were much more durable (self built) but also a lot heavier. Weight doesn't really bother me that much though.
I had to replace the crankset to higher end FSA but now I'm dreaming of getting a tiagra crankset (ok, 105 would be fine as well, but tiagra is cheaper). Sadly the frame is BB30 which means that all cranksets are insanely expensive when compared to the BSA stuff. Not that I mind the BB30 in itself. It's seriously a good system but just so dang expensive.
I now have a Fizik antares seat on it, just ordered a brooks B17 imperial (not sure if this is a downgrade since seats are so personal)
And now I switched the carbon seatpost to aluminum, because
1) peace of mind. Tightening the collar bolt was stressful to say the least. And I had to use friction paste every time (toothpaste, works much better than the actual carbon paste), and as I like to fiddle with the height now and then I had to do all that fairly often.
2) ease of use. Like I said, before = paste, now = no paste. And tightening is much easier as I don't need to use so much torque as aluminum against aluminum has some dang friction.
It is heavier though. Carbon post and saddle combo was 450 grams while the new post in itself is 350 grams.
I don't have reservations against carbon durability per se, but what it does not take well is compression, especially in a clamp, especially when the part is so ridiculously light. Why did I get it in the first place is a mystery...

I salute you.
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Old 05-29-15, 03:15 PM
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I downgraded the wheelset on a bike I recently bought. It's mostly intended as a commuter (and I'm a clyde), but the previous owner put high-end 16/20 race wheels on it. Luckily that downgrade offset a decent amount of the purchase price and I had pretty decent 28/32 wheels already.

What BB30 crank do you need?
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Old 05-29-15, 03:18 PM
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A compact. Can't deal with a standard with all the rolling hilla
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Old 05-29-15, 03:19 PM
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I was buying lightweight components for a while but have found that some of them aren't as durable and I really don't want parts failing on me.
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Old 05-29-15, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by elcruxio
A compact. Can't deal with a standard with all the rolling hilla
I'm getting ready to remove (and then likely sell) a 172.5mm 50/34 FSA Gossamer - in favor of a 170mm. I also have an extra 170mm 52/36 SL-K hanging around. The Gossamer - at least - was pretty darn cheap.
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Last edited by dtrain; 05-29-15 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 05-29-15, 05:59 PM
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as stated in another thread not more than a week ago. i had swapped out my shimano dual pivot front brake for a Shimano XT hydraulic disc brake, at major cost mind you, due to safety issues and what i thought at the time was poor (aka jerky, grabby) braking on my carbon rimmed wheel. i have come to the conclusion that it may have contributed to an accident that due to a concussion i have no memory of.

i gave the new brake a good workout, major climb, city and suburban stop an go riding. then the new brake started a mild howling. the way it was set up made it a simple task to do an A/B comparison between my old caliper brake and the new hydraulic disc brake by installing the old brake along-side with the new brake.

and so i did.

to my surprise a short ride made it clear that in the dry anyway (and this bike will never be ridden intentionally in the wet) the brakes left little to choose between them except for the slight howling and weight of the disc brake. i've since removed the disc brake. cost me for sure, but managed to learn a lot about disc brakes and now have confidence in my opinions WRT to them on a light weight road bike anyway.

Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 05-29-15 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 05-29-15, 09:08 PM
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I went from cheap fgss to bd road bike to caad9, caad10 and giant TCR carbon to my vintage steel now running 5800. Actually I've had the vintage bike for a few years as my second bike but I've now got rid of all but that one for now. N=1. I've found really don't need anything fancier. It doesn't hold me back
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Old 05-29-15, 09:18 PM
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Does ditching STI shifters for friction shifters count?
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Old 05-29-15, 10:17 PM
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My saddle cost $10 on Amazon, compared to the $50-60 that my bike's stock saddle costs on most sites. The $10 saddle is waaaay more comfortable.

I had a 105 triple fd break on me on an old bike, replaced with Tiagra, performed every bit as good.
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Old 05-29-15, 11:25 PM
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When my Red RD blew up, I replaced it with Force.
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Old 05-30-15, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by sced
I was buying lightweight components for a while but have found that some of them aren't as durable and I really don't want parts failing on me.
Why not get a Dura Ace crank, light and durable?

My bet is that you are to cool for that steel is real.
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Old 05-30-15, 03:19 AM
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If you're happier with the change, it's an upgrade. Only to people who want your money is it necessarily an upgrade if it costs more.
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Old 05-30-15, 08:30 AM
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Don't buy downgrades, ride down grades.

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Old 05-30-15, 08:45 AM
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Handlebar, 3T Ergosum Pro to Deda RHM 01. Both are the lowest offerings from their respective manufacturers, but the 3T is still a top of the line aluminium bar, some 50 grams lighter than the Deda. Unfortunately, they don't make the Ergosum in 38 cm c-c, and the RHM 01 was super cheap to boot.
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Old 05-30-15, 09:27 AM
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It's not "downgrading" if you're making your bike work they way you need it to work.
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