I Hate Speedplays
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I Hate Speedplays
Ended up buying some zeroes to see what the hype is about.
Out of 200 attempts. I got maybe 40. I made sure the screws weren't in tightly. It seems the only way to engage is to mash real hard. Wasn't even able to get in the left side.
I bought these cause I thought they would be easier to clip in than the SPD-SL's but boy was I wrong. I kinda wish I bought the ultegra pedals now. Instead, Im stuck with a few hour old 200 pedals that are pretty worn from constant clip in attempts.
Out of 200 attempts. I got maybe 40. I made sure the screws weren't in tightly. It seems the only way to engage is to mash real hard. Wasn't even able to get in the left side.
I bought these cause I thought they would be easier to clip in than the SPD-SL's but boy was I wrong. I kinda wish I bought the ultegra pedals now. Instead, Im stuck with a few hour old 200 pedals that are pretty worn from constant clip in attempts.
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Ended up buying some zeroes to see what the hype is about.
Out of 200 attempts. I got maybe 40. I made sure the screws weren't in tightly. It seems the only way to engage is to mash real hard. Wasn't even able to get in the left side.
I bought these cause I thought they would be easier to clip in than the SPD-SL's but boy was I wrong. I kinda wish I bought the ultegra pedals now. Instead, Im stuck with a few hour old 200 pedals that are pretty worn from constant clip in attempts.
Out of 200 attempts. I got maybe 40. I made sure the screws weren't in tightly. It seems the only way to engage is to mash real hard. Wasn't even able to get in the left side.
I bought these cause I thought they would be easier to clip in than the SPD-SL's but boy was I wrong. I kinda wish I bought the ultegra pedals now. Instead, Im stuck with a few hour old 200 pedals that are pretty worn from constant clip in attempts.
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I don't have the speedplays, but with my SPD (small) cleats, one can adjust them tight or loose.
I like them tight so it takes pretty much my full weight to lock the pedals (and thus fewer accidental unclips).
If I go over, I'll pull up with one side as I'm pushing down on the other to increase my click-in force.
I like them tight so it takes pretty much my full weight to lock the pedals (and thus fewer accidental unclips).
If I go over, I'll pull up with one side as I'm pushing down on the other to increase my click-in force.
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Yeah, I remember it was tight when I had just bought mine. They get a lot easier after a while, and I like them much better than Shimano SPD-SLs.
#7
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Hmm sounds like something's wrong. I have 2 pairs of zeros and although they are a little tight with new pedals/new cleats, it should only take a couple rides to break in.
Maybe try fully removing cleat and reinstalling from scratch. Are you using the correct snap shims for your shoe model? Did you double check flatness of adapter by using a metal straightedge to make sure platform is competely flat across? Verify torque for adapter plate and cleat - off the top of my head I think it's 4nm adapter/2.3nm cleat but check manual to make sure. Sometimes backing off the torque on the cleat a hair can help engagement. Also lube cleat springs and pedal bow ties with white lightening or similar dry wax type lube.
Any better after trying above?
Maybe try fully removing cleat and reinstalling from scratch. Are you using the correct snap shims for your shoe model? Did you double check flatness of adapter by using a metal straightedge to make sure platform is competely flat across? Verify torque for adapter plate and cleat - off the top of my head I think it's 4nm adapter/2.3nm cleat but check manual to make sure. Sometimes backing off the torque on the cleat a hair can help engagement. Also lube cleat springs and pedal bow ties with white lightening or similar dry wax type lube.
Any better after trying above?
Last edited by MagicHour; 06-05-15 at 11:38 PM.
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If you over tighten the plates, you can warp them and make clicking in and out very hard, regardless of how much you back them out. I love my speedplays but I had the same problem as you when I started with them. I ended up buying some speedplay specific shoes and when I put new cleat plates on, I used a torque key and haven't had any problems since
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use/buy a torque wrench man.
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2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
#12
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It is very important that the snap ring is installed correctly (star-side up). If you have that installed upside down, it would make it ridiculously difficult to clip in. Check out a youtube video, or go visit your lbs.
When I made the transition, I found it would engage easier if I rotated my foot back and forth while engaging the cleat.
When I made the transition, I found it would engage easier if I rotated my foot back and forth while engaging the cleat.
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Biggest installation mistake is if the surface under the cleat body isn't planar. If the mounting surface isn't flat, this will heighten screw torque sensitivity to clipping in. To resolve this, you will likely need to shim the base plate such that the cleat mates to a perfectly flat surface. Then you apply a fair amount of torque to the screws and be able to clip in no prob. Apply just a light coating of Teflon chain lube to the pedals.
Speedplays by far are the best pedals I have ridden.
Speedplays by far are the best pedals I have ridden.
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Nah I followed the directions. Made sure it was flat. Used the 6F b/c thats what Speedplays compatibility chart said to use. I made the heel in float zero but that shouldn't really effect the engagement.
I tried again this morning and I just don't feel safe in them to be honest. I would have to hold my brake levers and keep mashing on my right foot over and over again. There is no way in hell I would be able to get in both feet when Im doing an actual right.
I dissembled everything and reinstalled it and make sure not to use too much torque but same result. I also made sure my screws aren't too tight but again, same result.
Attached are photos. Does anyone see any clear reason why it might be stiff?
Imgur
I tried again this morning and I just don't feel safe in them to be honest. I would have to hold my brake levers and keep mashing on my right foot over and over again. There is no way in hell I would be able to get in both feet when Im doing an actual right.
I dissembled everything and reinstalled it and make sure not to use too much torque but same result. I also made sure my screws aren't too tight but again, same result.
Attached are photos. Does anyone see any clear reason why it might be stiff?
Imgur
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1. Are you working on your shoes/cleats in a funeral home?
2. Isn't there a bike shop near you that can help you with this?
3. You wouldn't be having this problem with Shimano pedals, just sayin'.
2. Isn't there a bike shop near you that can help you with this?
3. You wouldn't be having this problem with Shimano pedals, just sayin'.

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Wait until you walk in some dirt and try to clip/unclip. That's my biggest gripe.
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Yeah, def regretting not going with the tried and true SPD-SL's. Call me a quitter but I just submitted a purchase protection claim to get these babies returned.
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Not very familiar with Speedplays but have you made sure that Shimano SH-R088 shoes are compatible with Speedplay cleats? I didn't see it posted yet and thought it couldn't hurt to ask.
#22
Flyin' under the radar
Can you describe in greater detail your expectation for cleat engagement? For example, are you expecting that a slight amount of pressure with your crank at, say, the 3 o'clock position should be sufficient for cleat engagement? Is your expectation that it will take the majority of your body weight with the pedal at the 6 o'clock position to engage the cleat?
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Can you describe in greater detail your expectation for cleat engagement? For example, are you expecting that a slight amount of pressure with your crank at, say, the 3 o'clock position should be sufficient for cleat engagement? Is your expectation that it will take the majority of your body weight with the pedal at the 6 o'clock position to engage the cleat?
What I expected was the engagement was going to be like the spd-l where when I start to peddle downwards with my body weight, that it'll click.
Right now, even while peddling unengaged with my body weight on the downward motion, it does not click in. The only time it clicks in is when I mash it with definitely more pressure than I would have when regularly peddling. If I mash with my right, theres no way I can generate the same sort of pressure with my left when my right is already clicked in.
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Im the odd man out. I had speed plays for two years and went to Ultegra. Very happy. Here comes the "heresy" part... Dont know why but me knees are happier. Shouldnt be that way but it is. Cant explain it, wont even try. Just the way it is. Clipping in was never a problem though.
#25
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If your on the lighter side weight wise, and assuming you have not over tightened the screws on the plates as you say, I would guess they need some break in. I bought these for my wife and shes 100 and nothing pounds and had the same problems. I ended up buying ultra light cleats and swapping the springs, they will fit in the zero cleat body. Problem solved. Or if you are going to run full float. You can just switch to the X pedals. The springs are round and are much easier to clip in.