Inner Tube Recommendations
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 866
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Inner Tube Recommendations
Need to purchase some spare inner tubes for my Conti GT 4000S II tires (700c x 25).
What do you recommend? Any to avoid?
How many do you keep on hand?
I plan on keeping 2 in the saddle bag. Do you also keep extra at home?
thanks
Frank
What do you recommend? Any to avoid?
How many do you keep on hand?
I plan on keeping 2 in the saddle bag. Do you also keep extra at home?
thanks
Frank
#2
"Fred"--is that bad?
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 214 Represent!
Posts: 512
Bikes: Felt f85 (11); Trek 7.3 FX (07); Schwinn Super Sport (86); Specialized Rockhopper (87)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I tend to go cheap on tubes. Spend money on tires, save money on tubes.
I haven't found anything better or worse from one tube to another. (Although I bought a bike that had unthreaded presta valves and I thought those looked pretty slick. Didn't really perform any different, but looked cool.)
I haven't found anything better or worse from one tube to another. (Although I bought a bike that had unthreaded presta valves and I thought those looked pretty slick. Didn't really perform any different, but looked cool.)
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,075
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I buy tubes when they're on sale. I probably have one to two dozen. When I have a flat, I just put in a new tube, and put the old tube in the pile of "tubes to be patched". Then once a year or so I'll spend a cold and/or rainy afternoon patching tubes. I haven't noticed a difference in quality (or weight) of tubes; I have noticed a difference in valve stem length .
#4
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,535
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3670 Post(s)
Liked 5,421 Times
in
2,756 Posts
I have not bought a tube in years, my friends who can't be bothered to patch give me their flats. I don't think the brand makes much difference. I like the smooth stems. I carry one spare and some no glue patches.
#5
Thread Killer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,435
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3136 Post(s)
Liked 1,704 Times
in
1,029 Posts
I've never paid a much attention to tubes, and haven't noticed quality or performance differences, which is not to say they don't exist, of course.
I do try to stick to name brand in hopes of better quality, so that may be a factor, and since last year, I've kept stock of Panaracer R'Air tubes, primarily because they're extremely compact in the saddlebag, but also because they are light. They may confer performance benefits when fitted, but I can't tell. I've only had one flat with them, and the leakdown was very slow.
If I didn't worry about space or weight, I'd not give any thought to tubes, honestly.
I do try to stick to name brand in hopes of better quality, so that may be a factor, and since last year, I've kept stock of Panaracer R'Air tubes, primarily because they're extremely compact in the saddlebag, but also because they are light. They may confer performance benefits when fitted, but I can't tell. I've only had one flat with them, and the leakdown was very slow.
If I didn't worry about space or weight, I'd not give any thought to tubes, honestly.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 125
Bikes: 2011 Cannondale Synapse Alloy 5 105
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I personally use michelin aircomp a1 tubes and i have yet to flat with one. If avoid REI Novara tubes. Those fail regularly around the valve stem. I only carry one tube. No need for two. Just carry a small patch kit and one tube.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 866
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
My concern was partly about manufacturing quality. In reading some reviews on Amazon and such, some have had defective units NIB. Was wondering if this is common for some brands and less with others.
Right now I am thinking of getting Swaulbe or Conti. Since I just used my only Specialized tube I had, I wanted to get at least a pair but wasn't sure if I should keep one or two extra at home. I tend to believe that rubber tubes are a perishable item and ill eventually dry out and crack or something. Not sure keeping them in my garage vs on the bike will make them last any longer or not.
I have a metric century ride coming up at the end of the month that I question some of the roads as to their repair state. I figure I would rather have 2 for this ride and a patch kit, just in case.
Frank
Right now I am thinking of getting Swaulbe or Conti. Since I just used my only Specialized tube I had, I wanted to get at least a pair but wasn't sure if I should keep one or two extra at home. I tend to believe that rubber tubes are a perishable item and ill eventually dry out and crack or something. Not sure keeping them in my garage vs on the bike will make them last any longer or not.
I have a metric century ride coming up at the end of the month that I question some of the roads as to their repair state. I figure I would rather have 2 for this ride and a patch kit, just in case.
Frank
#8
blah blah blah
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I bet a lot of tubes are made in the same factories. Getting a bad tube is mostly like getting flats, mostly a matter of bad luck.
I like Maxxis Ultralight because they're the lightest tube for the money, usually on sale around $6 and only 67 grams. Michelin Aircomp Ultralight are an alternative I get on sale too but about 15 grams heavier. These tubes are noticeably lighter and thinner than generic or regular thickness tubes, but I don't flat any more or less with them. For me, flats are always a case of road debris like radial tire wires and slivers of glass that would puncture any tube.
I usually stock up on tubes on sale. I didn't used to patch but started this year because the number of tubes I was throwing away started to bother me. I just keep them indoors in boxes away from light exposure. I've ridden tires and tubes that were 18 years old, so you're probably okay storing tubes for a while.
I like Maxxis Ultralight because they're the lightest tube for the money, usually on sale around $6 and only 67 grams. Michelin Aircomp Ultralight are an alternative I get on sale too but about 15 grams heavier. These tubes are noticeably lighter and thinner than generic or regular thickness tubes, but I don't flat any more or less with them. For me, flats are always a case of road debris like radial tire wires and slivers of glass that would puncture any tube.
I usually stock up on tubes on sale. I didn't used to patch but started this year because the number of tubes I was throwing away started to bother me. I just keep them indoors in boxes away from light exposure. I've ridden tires and tubes that were 18 years old, so you're probably okay storing tubes for a while.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
Sure, they are perishable in an absolute sense, but relative to the past they are now quite a bit more durable with regard to aging. Modern methods of stabilization and all that good stuff. I keep them for years in a Houston hot garage with absolutely no issues. Don't let it bother you.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 866
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Thanks guys.
I was going to go with the Swaulbe light weight SV20 tubes but saw some reviewers commenting they are better for race day than training. I also heard good things about the Swaulbe SV15 regular weight and the Continental Race 28 regular tubes.
I like the idea of lighter weight but if they are easier to puncture( even if it is marginally) and can be damaged during install, I will accept the extra ounce and change of weight. I have only had to install new tires once and have fixed a flat and one practice fixing a flat. The Conti 4000s II are tight to put on and I am a little worried I could damage a thin wall trying to 'slip' on the last few inches of tire onto the rim. A thicker tube, I would expect, to be less prone to install damage than a thin one.
I ended up ebaying 3 Conti Race 28 tubes for $5.79 each plus free shipping. This way I have my patched tube and three spares to use. For my up coming ride, I will remove the patched tube and put two fresh ones (along with the patch kit) in my saddle bag to guarantee a good day of riding.
Thanks guys.
Frank
I was going to go with the Swaulbe light weight SV20 tubes but saw some reviewers commenting they are better for race day than training. I also heard good things about the Swaulbe SV15 regular weight and the Continental Race 28 regular tubes.
I like the idea of lighter weight but if they are easier to puncture( even if it is marginally) and can be damaged during install, I will accept the extra ounce and change of weight. I have only had to install new tires once and have fixed a flat and one practice fixing a flat. The Conti 4000s II are tight to put on and I am a little worried I could damage a thin wall trying to 'slip' on the last few inches of tire onto the rim. A thicker tube, I would expect, to be less prone to install damage than a thin one.
I ended up ebaying 3 Conti Race 28 tubes for $5.79 each plus free shipping. This way I have my patched tube and three spares to use. For my up coming ride, I will remove the patched tube and put two fresh ones (along with the patch kit) in my saddle bag to guarantee a good day of riding.
Thanks guys.
Frank
#11
Senior Member
I use Kenda tubes and they work for me. These either come in a box that says "Kenda" on them, or a box that says "Q Tubes" on them, either way, the tube says Kenda on it and "Made in Taiwan".
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 866
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I had previously purchased a regular Specialized tube from the local bike shop for like $10 - $14. being the first time changing an actual punctured tube (nor just practicing or putting on new tires), it looked rather thin and flimsy. I was scared I was going to rip it during install. Inflated the tube a little and stuffed it into the tire and worked the tire onto the rim starting opposite the valve and all worked out fine. It is one thing to practice changing a tire in your garage/home and another to do it on the roadside. Gratefully, the tools I had in the saddlebag worked great. I am sure this won't be my last flat but hopefully my speed of changing tubes will get faster, not that I am looking for more practice.
AS much as I love my Lezyne micro floor drive pump, the only shortcoming it has is the foot peg. Having cleats on makes it a little difficult to hold the foot peg still. Otherwise, it pumped my tire to 116 psi with not much effort (for me).
thanks
Frank
AS much as I love my Lezyne micro floor drive pump, the only shortcoming it has is the foot peg. Having cleats on makes it a little difficult to hold the foot peg still. Otherwise, it pumped my tire to 116 psi with not much effort (for me).
thanks
Frank
Last edited by Fly2High; 06-10-15 at 06:30 AM.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,296
Bikes: Colnago CLX,GT Karakoram,Giant Revel, Kona Honk_ Tonk
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Sure, they are perishable in an absolute sense, but relative to the past they are now quite a bit more durable with regard to aging. Modern methods of stabilization and all that good stuff. I keep them for years in a Houston hot garage with absolutely no issues. Don't let it bother you.
#14
Senior Member
Buy at least six tubes at a time on ebay. Kenda standard weight, size 23mm, about 93 grams, with removable valve cores so you can inject sealer if need be. The ebay guy in NJ ships them priority express and they arive in one or two days, cost $25 for six. You want several tubes on hand because it's very frustrating to miss a ride on the perfect day. Always carry at least two extra on the bike, and more if you're riding over 50 miles. I often flat both tires at the same time from goathead thorns. You can buy lighter tubes mentioned above to ride on but a stock of these cheaper ordinary-weight tubes are nice to have as back-ups and you can hand them out to other stranded riders. I prefer lightweight tubes but the standard weight are more durable. Lightweight tubes tend to fail more easily around the valve stems - this is their primary flaw.
Pretty sure that Kenda, Q-tubes, and REI Novara are all the same manufacturer. I like them because they're inexpensive and have removable valve cores.
It's wise to polish and round-over the valve rim holes in your rims with Dremel rotary tool, jeweller’s file, or 400+ grit sandpaper so the edges don't cut into your tube stems. Also you can cut a nickel-sized piece of felt cloth, poke a hole through the middle of it with an awl or phillips screwdriver, and put that over your tube stem for extra protection before installing new tubes.
Pretty sure that Kenda, Q-tubes, and REI Novara are all the same manufacturer. I like them because they're inexpensive and have removable valve cores.
It's wise to polish and round-over the valve rim holes in your rims with Dremel rotary tool, jeweller’s file, or 400+ grit sandpaper so the edges don't cut into your tube stems. Also you can cut a nickel-sized piece of felt cloth, poke a hole through the middle of it with an awl or phillips screwdriver, and put that over your tube stem for extra protection before installing new tubes.
Last edited by Clem von Jones; 06-09-15 at 11:40 AM.
#15
"Fred"--is that bad?
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 214 Represent!
Posts: 512
Bikes: Felt f85 (11); Trek 7.3 FX (07); Schwinn Super Sport (86); Specialized Rockhopper (87)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
<<SNIP>> It's wise to polish and round-over the valve rim holes in your rims with Dremel rotary tool, jeweller’s file, or 400+ grit sandpaper so the edges don't cut into your tube stems. Also you can cut a nickel-sized piece of felt cloth, poke a hole through the middle of it with an awl or phillips screwdriver, and put that over your tube stem for extra protection before installing new tubes.
Just about 100% of my flats, (that includes flats on my wife's bike as well since I am the one that gets the joy/honor of changing her's as well) are within probably 1/4". (Or, if I am going to conform to Rule #24 , 5mm.) The felt 'washer' idea is nothing short of brilliant.
I will think of you often and fondly as I ride day after day flat free!
#16
Advocatus Diaboli
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,635
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4733 Post(s)
Liked 1,532 Times
in
1,003 Posts
Thanks guys.
I was going to go with the Swaulbe light weight SV20 tubes but saw some reviewers commenting they are better for race day than training. I also heard good things about the Swaulbe SV15 regular weight and the Continental Race 28 regular tubes.
I like the idea of lighter weight but if they are easier to puncture( even if it is marginally) and can be damaged during install, I will accept the extra ounce and change of weight. I have only had to install new tires once and have fixed a flat and one practice fixing a flat. The Conti 4000s II are tight to put on and I am a little worried I could damage a thin wall trying to 'slip' on the last few inches of tire onto the rim. A thicker tube, I would expect, to be less prone to install damage than a thin one.
I ended up ebaying 3 Conti Race 28 tubes for $5.79 each plus free shipping. This way I have my patched tube and three spares to use. For my up coming ride, I will remove the patched tube and put two fresh ones (along with the patch kit) in my saddle bag to guarantee a good day of riding.
Thanks guys.
Frank
I was going to go with the Swaulbe light weight SV20 tubes but saw some reviewers commenting they are better for race day than training. I also heard good things about the Swaulbe SV15 regular weight and the Continental Race 28 regular tubes.
I like the idea of lighter weight but if they are easier to puncture( even if it is marginally) and can be damaged during install, I will accept the extra ounce and change of weight. I have only had to install new tires once and have fixed a flat and one practice fixing a flat. The Conti 4000s II are tight to put on and I am a little worried I could damage a thin wall trying to 'slip' on the last few inches of tire onto the rim. A thicker tube, I would expect, to be less prone to install damage than a thin one.
I ended up ebaying 3 Conti Race 28 tubes for $5.79 each plus free shipping. This way I have my patched tube and three spares to use. For my up coming ride, I will remove the patched tube and put two fresh ones (along with the patch kit) in my saddle bag to guarantee a good day of riding.
Thanks guys.
Frank
[SIZE=1]"On some websites cyclists are complaining that when using a screw on pump the removable valve core shoots off the stem when they unscrew the pump. That's because when installing the tube (fresh out of the box) the removable core is factory installed only finger tight. You will need a 4.5 mm metric wrench (or presta valve core tool) to tighten the core for the first time. This will allow for your plastic valve cap, or your screw on pump to be taken off your stem without the core flying off.
NOTE: When tightening the core in the stem, hold the stem firmly and be careful not to twist or damage the stem base connection to the tube"[/SIZE]
#17
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,531
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3887 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
Michelin AirComp. Buy 6.
#18
Advocatus Diaboli
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,635
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4733 Post(s)
Liked 1,532 Times
in
1,003 Posts
#19
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,531
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3887 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
#20
Advocatus Diaboli
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,635
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4733 Post(s)
Liked 1,532 Times
in
1,003 Posts
Good to know. surprised that Michelin limits their saleable universe though by understating their tube compatibility with somewhat popular tire widths.
Last edited by Sy Reene; 06-09-15 at 09:35 PM. Reason: typo
#21
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,531
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3887 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NoVa
Posts: 105
Bikes: 1993 GT Corrado, 1999 Kona Explosif, 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Mavic tubes. Smooth black valve stem. Looks good, easier to get pump on and off, no threads also helps the rubber inside the pump head last a bit longer.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 866
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
AS for the valve core unscrewing, will do. Have heard some using threadlocker on them to ensure they do not unscrew. Something like Loctite 262 would be great but maybe you could get away with 242 as well.
I do have a screw on pump so I need to have threads. It seems to screw onto the valve cap thread if what I am seeing is correct on the Lezyne micro floor pump.
Do the Mavic's have a valve cap?
Frank
I do have a screw on pump so I need to have threads. It seems to screw onto the valve cap thread if what I am seeing is correct on the Lezyne micro floor pump.
Do the Mavic's have a valve cap?
Frank