Bluecoupe

I started out with the A530's pedals on my first bike and picked up a pair of Shimano R064 shoes which can attach both spd and spd-sl cleats. I just wanted the extra utility of when I go out biking with the kids to the park I can just wear my regular shoes.

Now on my other bikes I have spd-sl... clipping in and out are the same I didn't get hot spots on my feet with the spds but if you don't plan on walking in your shoes then I'd say just go for the spd-sl's. The reason being that road shoes look better than mtb shoes IMO

GSteg

I started out with Shimano SPD and have stuck with them ever since. I use Giro Grynd shoes for most of my leisure rides since the shoes are pretty much tennis shoes, and I can walk around with them without noticing the cleats. The soles aren't stiff either so you're not walking around funny. In fact, I bought a second pair just because they're so damn comfortable (way more than my mountain bike shoes)! Great for beginners who do not want to jump directly to road shoes.

Lazyass

And there we have it, it's about the proper look. You don't want to be seen wearing a shoe that has some tread on the bottom, since that's the only real difference. I mean let's be honest, that's what it's really about. Personally, when I'm pedaling and when I look down I can't tell the difference between road and MTB. I only notice the difference when I put my foot on the ground.

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RoderWrench

^This 100%.

I started on Speedplay. They worked great on the bike. However, 50% of my riding is commuting, errands and urban riding where I might have to walk. Walking in road shoes plain sucks. When I decided to invest in good quality cycling shoes, I ditched the Speedplays and got Sidi Dominator MTB shoes and SPD pedals. I couldn't be happier with the shoes or the cleat system. There's a weight penalty but it's really insignificant. Stability really doesn't feel any different to me and I can WALK like a human being.
Unless your aspiring to be an official roadie that follows The Rules, SPD and MTB shoes work just fine. As a bonus, SPD pedals can be had for less money than most road systems. Considering that currently, N=5 in my N+1 equation, that is significant to me.

CafeVelo

$125 doesn't seem reasonable to me because of the price of a decent shoe, and the cost of a pedal system. I would buy a pedal that works for your needs and a comfortable shoe. Your lowest possible barrier of entry is near $125, but you're stuck riding spd cleats (which hurt because of the cleat size, IME) and you MUST know your size, since you'd have to buy shoes online. A better option is to get what works, not what's cheap.

PepeM

It is enough to get you going. I use Shimano A530 pedals and Giro Republic shoes. I'm sure there are better systems out there, but this combination has worked well for me so far.

ColaJacket

As a fellow newbie, this is what I did, also.

Forte Campus Pedals (39.99)

Shimano SH-M089 MTB Shoes (109.99)

Nobody has complained on group rides about my shoes and pedals. As a matter of fact, at least one other person had the exact same shoes.

GH

Fly2High

Just started riding this past Jan '15 so I am a newbe like you. I went with a pair of SPD-SL and Shimano 105 5800 pedals. Love them. For those times I want to wear regular shoes, I picked up some PedalDabs which converts a clipless pedal into a platform so sneaker/shoes will work fine. I put the pedals on during the winter months when I would practice on the turbo trainer. I have yet to fail to unclip and fall over with all the practice. I went for a ride with the PedalDab platform conversion inserts and it felt weird. The platform felt fine but I was no longer use to NOT being clipped in. Did not feel as connected to the bike. If you are like me, once you are tied to your bike, you will never want to go back to platforms again.

As for which pedal, I think they all work. I would suggest finding a REALLY comfortable shoe, regardless of the price and get a pedal to match. All clipless pedals will take practice to use. For me, I felt the large shape of the SPD-SL and the fact that it feels like I can catch the pedal with the front of the cleat real easy and snap in with no problem. The Shimano pedal seesm to always want to have the front up in the air to further help the front of the cleat catch the pedal. Little push forward and down and CLICK!!, you are in. Kick the heel out to the side and you're out.

As for shoes, I have one pair from a local bike shop and another from Nashbar. they have a great return policy ($8 shipping for returns if you want it . Otherwise you pay for shipping.) I have wider feet and with their sale they often run, I got a pair of shoes for not much. I ordered 2 pairs and returned the one I did not fit. I think today and tomorrow they are running a 21% off everything. You could also try stuff on locally and order elsewhere to save a buck or two.

I got my pedals from CHain Reaction Cycles for less than what the 530 were going for locally which is why I moved up. I got them for $69. Not sure it really matters in pedals so much but they are a little lighter(if that matters to you). I am very happy.

best of luck,

Frank

Mountain Mitch

Read the kinesiology studies. Clipless pedals have zero impact on efficiency. Even at the pro level it is very very limited, if at all evident.

you ought to be able to tell where your foot is located on any pedal. And sometimes changing that position can actually improve your riding by repositioning your weight going up or down hills.

ColaJacket

I can say that I could tell a difference on my first ride with clipless pedals.

1. Before clipless, when I tried to spin, sometime my foot would slip off the platform pedals.
2. Before clipless, when I tried to spin, I could tell that my spin was not putting power into the pedals evenly.

Now, you might say that since I was new that I would learn to do these things, but the clipless pedals helped me do them easier and sooner than without the clipless.

The test for efficiency was done with pros. Easy to understand that their pedalling motion is already pretty efficient.

GH

69chevy

Black or white kind of person, huh?

Zero impact on efficiency? I'm not saying being attached to the pedal adds 5mph, I'm saying it increases efficiency.

As in, your foot stays where it belongs and when your quads are zapped on a big climb, the pulling up motion can be very beneficial to keep you moving up the hill.

Your quads are remarkably strong and can easily out-do any other muscle in your body, but any positive method to keep your pedalling rythym smooth, adds efficiency. Maybe not measurably over short distances, but over time.

woodcraft

Inexpensive shoes tend to be stiff & uncomfortable.

Keep looking and/or spend enough so that your feet are happy.

Inexpensive pedals work OK IME.

Mountain Mitch

You can say that, but the actual scientific proof doesn't support you. Have a look at www.powercranks.com/assets/PDFs/02Thesis_BurnsJ.pdf where the author states:
"Some authors have suggested that the use of toe-clips or cleats improves cycling form by allowing the cyclist to actually pull up during the recovery stroke (Faria 1992). This has not been shown scientifically however, because studies have not found any advantage of pedal-clips or cleats over regular unattached pedals (Capmol & Vanderwalle,1997; Evangelisti et al, 1999)."
So I say get them if you want them. Only understand WHY you want them. If it is for power or efficiency, save your coin!

ColaJacket

I would think that if clipless pedals truly offer no advantage over platform pedals that there would be, at least, one pro on the tour that didn't have them.

GH

makeitso5005

Your link doesn't work, but goodie a nearly 20 year old study. But in any case if you want to figure out instantaneous efficiency, it's obvious that the muscles most suited toward pushing down are going to be the most efficient at doing it. However, unless your rides are all sub 1-hour most people care about the endurance of the system. Firing all the small twitch muscles to keep the foot over the pedal while spinning @ 100 rpm eventually fatigues the system. Using your hip flexors not to lift but to unweight the pedal in an endurance situation (don't need to push up your opposite leg weight on the pedal) and being able to more consistently employ your hamstrings near the bottom of your stroke help spread the load over more muscle groups. So while it's not as "efficient" it allows the endurance of the entire system to be increased as you're not solely using your quads and glutes. But this has nothing to say about sprinting...

Anyway... Until the OP chimes in again regarding his usage can't really recommend anything further. Price wise he'll look at entry level shoes and pedals in a road system, he can get slightly more in a SPD system as quality shoes are cheaper.

Fly2High

One thing clipless cleats, especially the ones that stick out the bottom, do is it makes you do whatever it takes NOT to have to walk any further than necessary. For as long as you are wearing them, you will stay on the bike as long as possible. If you have to get off, you will keep that time as short as possible.

I do not know about you, I cannot stand walking in cleats, especially on any hard floor like concrete, asphalt, tile, hardwood, etc. I would rather ride my bike into a deli or bagel shop than have to 'clip clop' in.

Get me back on the bike. Let's go!

I know, THAT's why some like SPD (MTB) shoes. Their cleat is recessed. I didn't go for SPD because the cleat looked small and I was fearful I would have a hard time locating it when it was time to clip in. I know, so many do it but I felt as a beginner, SPD-SL were easier.


So Mountain Mitch, do you wear clipless and if so which ones?

Frank

Smokehouse

I'd like to add to this...road shoes also vent better, are stiffer and are lighter line for line. Even comparing "best vs best" shoes like the Sidi Wire and Drako (road and MTN), in size 45, the Wire weighs in at 635g, the Drako at 760g.


I read this all of the time with new clipless riders and a vast majority of them land up in designated road shoes. Some don't...most do. The "walking around" comment often dies with seasoned riders...because, like most say, you ride in your cycling shoes, not walk around a ton. If I'm riding remotely, I wear a pair of normal shoes to the ride and swap out for cycling shoes. When I'm done, back in the other shoes I go.

When I first rode clipless, it was on a borrowed bike with borrowed shoes. Specialized mountain shoes, SLD cleats. Once I bought my own setup and went road shoes and SPD-SL cleats...I found out what I was missing with the other setup. Road shoes and road cleats are for road cycling...

PepeM

Spinning 120rpms without being attached to the pedal isn't much fun.

Diablito

Whatever pedal you decide to get make sure for your first set of cleats it has " ZERO Float ". You will be able to get your foot out easier with less twist of your ankle.

Hypno Toad

+1

I'm a big fan of Eggbeaters, easy to engage, easy to release, allow float to protect your knees. I have three bikes with Eggbeaters, I like them that much. I do everything from a short ride to the store in jeans to 100 mile gravel grinders.

I used a basic SPD pedal for my first clipless pedals (~10 years ago), they had platform one side and clip-in to the pedal on the other (like these). Seems like a good idea, until you need to find the "right side".

I got my wife started on her first ever clipless pedals with Eggbeaters and she loves them and recommends them for people starting clipless.

For shoes, I like MTB shoes because I can walk in them. I rarely ride without stopping to shop, eat, drink, socialize... I have a couple pairs of Shimano shoes, my newer ones are like this.

Fly2High

One thing that I thought was going to matter a lot was whether pedals were multi sided. Many pedal manufacturers tout this as a must have or a major advantage. What I mean by being multi sided is can I have a platform on one side and a clip in on the other or have the ability to clip in on either side. With the PD5800 and I am sure all Kool, SPD-SL and the like cleat style pedals, they tend to drop the back side so the clip in side is always ready to receive the cleat. I never really missed not having the pedal be multi sided.

I thought I would desire a platform and the Pedal Dabs took care of that and now that I have been in clipless for a little while, I really do not like riding platforms anymore. I just feel more confident and do not slide on the pedals and like being attached to the bike.

Odd how things are designed and how they work out.

Frank

makeitso5005

Not sure how many weight weenies have a sub $125 budget for all of 125g. It sounds like you ride purely as dedicated recreation activity where you go out to bike and nothing else. This isn't what everyone's intended purpose is.

Don't... DON'T do this. Your knees will thank you especially if you don't have perfect form. Float isn't a bad thing! There's no reason to start with zero float as you can always (in SPD or SPD-SL or Look's) turn down the tension of the pedal to make it really easy to unclip. You should probably start, with any system, with the tension at a minimum until you're comfortable being clipped.

woodcraft

Nor is it efficient. 12 MPH @ 50 RPM will use much less energy, & no need to be clipped in either. Also drive your car at 35 MPH max. for best gas mileage. It's scientific!

69chevy

I can't tell if you are serious, but you do realize most cyclists are fitness oriented, right.

Diablito

Omg some people are over dramatic here. If your a noob to cleats get a zero float have a pro put them on an adjust them for you. Ride around town getting the feel for them. If you feel comfortable go out and do a quick 10 or 20 miles. Once you can do that swap out the Zero Float cleat for a set with float and you will enjoy more movement . Zero float cleats for long term I don't suggest. For a noob they are perfect. Go have fun and see how cleats makes your ride better. Don't adjust them yourself because your knees will start to ache if not adjusted properly.