Installing new Wheels - Help!
 

guys,
Just got a set of Vuelta Corsa SLR wheels. I would like to move my existing cassette onto them and the current tires. Never did a cassette swap yet but have changed tires before. Have done a search and some say to grease the hub before putting on the cassette. Others say to not to. Little confusing. Need some direction.


Any pointers as to how to install a new set of wheels? Have chain loop and cassette removal tool already. I have a 9 sp Sora setup and have the 10 speed spacer that came with the wheels. Thesea re 11 sp compatible wheels. My current Specialized Axis Classics that came with the Secteur have Conti 4000s II. I will be putting the original Espoir sport back onto the Axis wheels and the Contis on the Vuelta. Will save the Axis for bad days/ winter riding

these are NIB/never used.

Thanks

I don't think you need to grease anything.

When ask for pointers on installing, are you asking how to remove/replace the cassette?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXQ3R3qdc_c

Sounds like you're comfortable swapping the tires.

For the cassette, here's a nice video on how to remove the cassette and install it on the Vueltas. You'll need to use the supplied spacer since your new freehub is 11s compatible (and just a tad longer). You do not need to put grease/lube on the freehub. In fact, you should clean the cassette before installing it on the Vueltas.

You would be amazed by how much really professional help you can get on the Bicycle Mechanics forum for a question like this. And that is kind of a shame.

Bike Radar suggested grease or anti seize on the hub before installing cassette.

http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/how-to-replace-a-bike-cassette-video-18234/

I think there was another one that put a white grease all over the hub as well and then I found others, like those above that put nothing on it.

Thanks guys.

I was concerned there were other things I should do but it looks like a piece of cake.

thanks

Yeah, no need to grease anything. Personally, I would buy a new cassette and put that on there so you have the old wheels ready to go for backup.

I was thinking about that but I already have 1600+ miles on this cassette and chain and I only got them in January. The chain has a tad bit more than .050" and less than the .075" stretch (based on Park Tool chain checker) so I figure I would just buy two cassettes when needed when I order a new chain and see if the wear on the cassette is enough to warrant changing. I doubt it but can't hurt to check. I do not want to put into use a new cassette on this old chain.

For now, I have no need for the other set and can wait. Might even get one 11-32 and another 11-25 or 11-28. Need to see. I have been getting stronger but I am not sure I can yet give up my 32T gear for the 10-15% grades. It is nice to have it when I just want to take it easy on a climb.

You do need to grease the threads on the lockring. The torque spec is 40nm. Put that on with no grease, and try to remove it 2 years later, you'll wish you greased the threads.

No need to grease the freehub body, but a little grease on the rails is not going to hurt anything.

To go against the grain here, I always apply a little grease to the hub. Without it I seem to get a little chatter between the freehub body and my cassette (Powerdome). The grease eliminates it.

I've never greased the lockring. I've never had issues removing it, but then I remove it with my regular maintenance for cleaning the cassette and not every 2 years.

Well, I did the swap. I thought I had the tool to remove the cassette lockring but it was a bottom bracket tool instead. Quick run to the LBS got me the right tool ( chose the one with the pin in the middle) Came off real easy. Swapped tires and cassette and installed old tires back onto stock wheels since they still have some life. Didn't take long at all to do all 4.

For those who are new, just a few pointers I have:

1. Makes sure you put a chalk mark indicating direction of rotation of the tire. Of course you will remove them and install them the same right? WRONG. Somehow, they always get turned around so you'll need to remove the tires and redo them. The Chalk mark will be a loud reminder of what direction they need to go. I believe it doesn't matter on the front wheel but it does on the back. On my wheels, I did not see any marks on the front suggesting a rotation direction. Only the tires did. When installed with the chalk arrow at the top of the wheel, they are all pointing forward.
2. Check your brakes. If you are like me, your new wheels will be a different size. You will need to adjust your brakes so they will not rub or to make them make contact!!
3. Check you derailleurs. These wheels were meant for 11 sp cassette and my prior were for 9/10 sp. I had a spacer to use on the new wheels to fit my 9 sp cassette but they were still a little different than my previous wheels and needed some tweaking.
4. Clean the cassette WELL. I cleaned it but I clearly had left some grit on it and it happened to get down low and affected the spacing ever so slightly. I had to take it off and clean again. Clean them better than new if you are reusing your cassette on new wheels. This is one time being anal retentive pays off. It might be best to buy a new cassette so they are pristine to begin with.
5. If you have a patched tire, now is a good time to install it, even if it is only temporary, and verify it holds air. You have the tires off. Might as well install them and fill them all the way. Better to check them and re-patch if needed now than while on the road only to find out it leaks.
6. wear old cloths when doing the job. No matter how clean you have the parts, you are always going to stain something. (The sprocket teeth marks did come out of my pants :))

Now that the wheels are installed, the change was noticeable, even for this newbee. The Vuelta Corsa SLR are about 1-1.5 lbs lighter than my stock Secteur wheels and they do roll for what feels like forever. My only gripe is that they could be stiffer laterally and the freehub clicking is louder now. Otherwise, they seems to speed up more quickly and require less effort , to me, in climbing. It is not insanely huge but it is a very noticeable difference.

Thanks to everyone for your help. This was a success because of all of your tutelage.

Thank you.

I can't think of any good reason to grease non-moving parts like that.

Shimano doesn't recommend it either.

http://si.shimano.com/php/download.p...004-03-ENG.pdf

Skinny Bicycle tires arent really directional. Many car tires are for tread pattern designed for water clearance, and/or side and djrectional specific because of shoulder compound because theyre loaded differently on each side

Knobby mtb and cx bike tires might also have tread blocks designed for purchase on soft and lose surfaces...

Skinny road tires - treads are superfluous. Theyre not really necessary at app

Second that. Better than any LBS mechanics I've talked to in person.

I'm a big fan of a light film of grease on freehub bodies before sliding on the cassette. It has nothing to do with lubrication, since nothing should be moving there, but I ride in all conditions, and know that water likes to wick into small crevices and cause corrosion if bare metal is exposed there.

As for the rest, riding the type of hardware you do, you should know how to mount a tire and a wheel. Since your using the original cassette, no change to the chain, but the cassette position won't be identical so you'll need to fine tune limit screws and the trim accordingly.

The very popular GP4000S are directional. Some tires are, some aren't.

If you want to take it all off again, you can try using some thin lube (like Pro Link) on each of the pins of the cassette cogs that are one piece. Usually, the top 3 cogs and then the next 2 are attached together, and I've noticed after I clean the cassette very well that I'll get clicking in the cassette in those top 5 gears. Adding some thin lube to those pins has always stopped that clicking for me.

It could be something else, but it's something to try at least.

They're not really. I read somewhere that Conti put arrows on them because they were tired of being swamped with calls from people that asked which way to mount them. Might have been in a Zinn column some time ago.

Don't want to sidetrack the thread, but they have a directional arrow on them, and the tread pattern tapers in one direction. It probably doesn't make any difference in terms of handling/grip, but it looks bad mounted backwards. I'm sure there are other tires that are directional as well. Whether that means anything in reality is another question, but there are tires that are directional :)

Yeah, I ride those all the time. I never look when I put them on.

Statistically, that should mean they're backwards half the time, right?

Let me go look....

So I have 700x25 GP 4000 S and a 4000 S II.

Ah, so the arrow is only on one side of the tire and I have both on backwards!!!

and theyre one of the sillier examples on the market, being that the so-called tread are barely a part of the actual contact patch ....