What's good in modern tubular rims?
 

700c, 32 hole, anodize ok, rim brakes, double eyeleted

Anything to recommend? Anything to avoid?

Yeah expand your horizons and go to CF.

Your post is a plethora of contradictions. There is nothing modern about the rims your described. You might as well just get some used Fiammes from the junk bin at the LBS. Modern would be Kinlin 20 hole/24 hole TB25 aluminum, Bike Hub Store's 23 mm wide, 415 g tubular rim or some medium to deep carbon rims. 32 holes? Eyelets? Double eyelets. That stuff is from the 1980s. Modern rim design obviates all of those features. I don't mean to offend you, but I feel your question require a factual answer.

This is good.

http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps48c68ab6.jpg
http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps30eb1214.jpg

Now that is modern! Sweet.

Are you racing? If not, tubulars are pointless.

You have to have wheels on your bike. Why shouldn't they be tubulars? The tape-based mounting of tubular tires has revolutionized the use of tubular wheels. I am blown away by how easy they are to mount and maintain. I carry Pit Stop to fix flats on the road. An besides, no flats so far after 6 months. Supposing nothing else about them would be superior to clinchers. So what? It is just another one of the available choices. There doesn't have to be a point. What is the point of clinchers?

Hed Belgium or Ambrosio Nemesis

Velocity Major Tom Tubular Rim - Wheelbuilder.com

That's the only Aluminum tubular even listed on Wheelbuilder.com, modern tubular rims are almost universally carbon. So your options are going to be very, very limited.

What happens when you slice a tire when you're 40-50 miles from your house or your car? With a clincher you can EASILY put a dollar bill or something in between the tube and tire even with a pretty big gash. I got a 1" gash on my cross bike and rode home with that method.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=472033

When I ride tubulars, I carry a spare tire under the seat.

I hope you're kidding, that's a really, really inconvenient/lame solution.

Why ? One can carry sealant for small holes, and a spare for a catastrophe. The tire is under the saddle. What's so inconvenient about it ?
Stick with clinchers if you don't like tubulars. No big deal.

Huh?

Some people like to argue.

What is the advantage of a tubular then? I'm genuinely curious.

Most tubular wheels are in the approximate realm of 200g lighter than clincher wheels. If you have to carry a spare tire, that weight savings is immediately lost and you're still stuck with a tire that's harder to deal with a flat.

I've never ridden tubulars so I'm genuinely curious what the advantage to it is if you have to carry a spare tire with you. Beyond the obvious major cost increase, tubulars seem like all cons if you're carrying an extra tire that overcomes the weight savings anyway.

I like the feel of the way good tubulars ride. I don't care about 200 grams plus or minus.

hmm

Spare tire just isn't really a PITA you make it out to be. Many people I know carry a spare tube for their clinchers, it's kinda the same as that.

Most people would prefer extra weight under saddle than on wheels.

I usually roll clinchers myself, since I'm happy with performance of some $35 clinchers. I do like riding my tubulars on special occasions, however, cuz dang they feel good.

Wow, so today I found out using a spare tire as a replacement is "really inconvenient/lame solution," when compared to "put a dollar bill or something in between the tube and tire."

Tubular wheelsets seem to be 200-300 lighter than clinchers, including the tubular tire, the total weight savings is closer to a pound.

Really? You don't think carrying around a whole damn spare tire isn't inconvenient? You're comparing carrying around a $100+ spare tire to carrying around a $2 spare tube :lol:

And "putting a dollar bill in there" is only if you slice it big. If you get a puncture, you just swap the tube. You can't do that with a tubular. The dollar bill is only for big slices.

You clearly don't know how many grams are in a pound if you think 200-300 is "closer to a pound". 200 is less than half a pound, so it's actually closer to zero pounds than it is to 1 pound. 300 is still a ways off from a full pound. It needs to be more than 50% heavier to be a full pound. Do you have a girlfriend/wife? If she was 120lbs that would be like saying she's "closer to 200lbs". Very, very misleading.

I guess accounting isn't quite the right word, but "including" sure specifies the situation.

@Alias530

Tubular tires are often much lighter than a clincher tire and inner tube. A 220g tubular would meet all the demands you could throw at it, excluding crazy mileage. Even a racing clincher tire paired with a inner tube is most likely over 300g, sure you could go crazy and try to get a 250g combo, but you could also go crazy with a 120g tubular tire.

250g weight savings at the rim along with 80g saving at each tire is 410g savings, which is nearly a pound (454g). That is from my experience with tubulars, and I will stick with them.

1) It's just as convenient to put a tire under your seat as it is a tube.
2) Spare tubulars are generally old worn ones with a glue base, not brand new $100 tires.
3) 200 grams, times 2 wheels, is close to a pound. (454 grams = 1 pound)
4) It's usually faster to swap a tubular than repair/replace a tube.
5) Stop trolling, on a subject you have no experience with.

Back to the OP:
I built up some wheels using generic 50 mm carbon Chinese tubular rims. They ride very nicely.

Homebrew, thanks! What was the brand? I'm a carbon newbie though a tubular oldie. I went to Ebay looking for road bars and I saw a lot of really cheap carbon bars looking a lot like K-wings, but I kept thinking "these might not be any good."

The frame is a 2005, so this is not a "deep vintage" refurb.