What's good in modern tubular rims?
08-20-15, 09:03 AM
#51
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
So if you do have to swap tires and you're on a ride with lots of fast descents, would you just take everything at half speed in case the tire gets rolled off due to weak adhesion to the rim? That seems like a pretty big compromise compared to a new tube and CO2 cartridge worth of air in a clincher. Not saying tubbies don't serve their purpose, just genuinely curious how people deal with flats.
It's compromise some are willing to accept.
Most people stick with clinchers.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
08-20-15, 09:06 AM
#52
wears long socks
"Back when" we trained on tubulars a spare (or two) was carried under the saddle, always a worn or repaired tub relegated to "spare" status.
It was faster to replace a tubular on the side of the road and inflate w/ a Silca or Zefal frame pump than it does today to change a tube and mess around w/ mini pump & CO2.
For a training ride there was enough gutta adhesion on the rim bed and on a pre-instaled spare to have no worries keeping in mind to not play full-on Crit racer.
It was what it was and we dealt with it as part of operational SOP.
Race wheels were/are safer as tubulars since a flat can be safely ridden out of the field and onto the verge to wait for support and a wheel change.
It's refreshing to see a question posed about hardware use that one is un-familiar with rather than a strongly worded "opinion" on hardware one has no experience using.
PS: "10 Speed" meant 2X5, gears didn't index, low was 42X21 and we trained on tubulars. Somehow we got along just fine..............
-Bandera
It was faster to replace a tubular on the side of the road and inflate w/ a Silca or Zefal frame pump than it does today to change a tube and mess around w/ mini pump & CO2.
For a training ride there was enough gutta adhesion on the rim bed and on a pre-instaled spare to have no worries keeping in mind to not play full-on Crit racer.
It was what it was and we dealt with it as part of operational SOP.
Race wheels were/are safer as tubulars since a flat can be safely ridden out of the field and onto the verge to wait for support and a wheel change.
It's refreshing to see a question posed about hardware use that one is un-familiar with rather than a strongly worded "opinion" on hardware one has no experience using.
PS: "10 Speed" meant 2X5, gears didn't index, low was 42X21 and we trained on tubulars. Somehow we got along just fine..............
-Bandera
I have however, seen tubular tires glued on out of balance.
How easy is this tape stuff, and if you get it wrong, how hard is it to redo?
08-20-15, 09:08 AM
#53
pan y agua
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,293
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1440 Post(s)
Liked 708 Times
in
362 Posts
with the old glue on the rim, and on the tire, combined with high pressure in the tire, the replacement tire should be pretty secure. You wouldn't want to push it in corners, particularly descending, but its not like you have to ride 5mph either.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
08-20-15, 09:12 AM
#54
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,664
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
have you guys heard of this new system where you can pry one side of the tire away from the rim and slide out old the tube with the hole in it and in its place put a brand new one in?
08-20-15, 09:28 AM
#55
~>~
08-20-15, 09:41 AM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Potomac, MD
Posts: 776
Bikes: 2012 GT Transeo 3 2014 Cannondale CAAD 10 105
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've recently made the swap to riding carbon tubulars. The ride comparison to clinchers just isn't fair. It's simply sublime. In fact, the first time I rode, I could have sworn and stopped to check if I flatted at least four times because of the increased road damping over clinchers. Basically put, because of the lack of the rigid hook and bead portion of the sidewall, the tires have a better ability to absorb road bumps, thus smoother ride.
If you're going to make a perfectly fair comparison, one would have to compare direct equivalents.
Using everyone else's Enve example:
SES 3.4 clincher w/DT240 Shimano hub - 1450.6g
SES 3.4 tubular w/DT240 Shimano hub - 1320.6g
a difference of 130g.
Vittoria Open Corsa CX 700x25C clincher - 220g (claimed) with Vittoria Lite 25-32c tube - 110g = 330g per wheel
Vittoria Corsa CX 700x25C tubular - 255g (claimed)
a difference of 75g per wheel or 150g total. Meaning 280g total weight savings to ride tubulars or around 2/3rds of a pound. At the rim, which is where weight savings is the most noticeable. This translates to quicker acceleration and less energy needed to keep the wheels rotating
This. I carry a spare pre-glued tire, mini pump, CO2 and two levers in my center rear pocket. It doesn't take up much more space than a tube, patch kit, mini pump, CO2 and two levers. seriously. My tubular spare kit (with an admittedly large, cheap Vittoria Rally tubular) is the same size as the seat bag for my clincher wheels. the only difference: one gets attached to my seat, the other goes in an otherwise unused pocket in my jersey. I could get a tubular specific bag... but I'm cheap, and sticking it in my pocket is free.
Tubular glue is a solvent based type of contact cement. Unlike normal glues which require that the glue be in a liquid state when bonding two items, contact cements work almost as well (if not better) when the glue is applied to two surfaces and allowed to dry then pressed together under force. It does admittedly work better when a layer is applied to each surface and a 3rd wet layer is used to form the final bond, but even dry, it works pretty well. As others have said... well enough to get you home, but not so great you're going to rail every corner at the limits. No different than booting a clincher tire (except you don't have to worry about the tire itself falling apart, just the same separation from rim that you do with a booted clincher)
just my input and feelings as a relatively new (last 6 months) tubular user.
Note, in the 6 months and 850 miles of riding tubulars I've had 0 issues. I'd say 75% of that is ridden in groups, and during that time frame, multiple group members have gotten flats riding the exact same routes (and sometimes lines) as me.
I've hit several potholes at the same speeds (and same general weights) as group members and not had a problem, while they flatted.
your experience (if you should so endeavor) may be different, but mine has been highly enjoyable.
If you're going to make a perfectly fair comparison, one would have to compare direct equivalents.
Using everyone else's Enve example:
SES 3.4 clincher w/DT240 Shimano hub - 1450.6g
SES 3.4 tubular w/DT240 Shimano hub - 1320.6g
a difference of 130g.
Vittoria Open Corsa CX 700x25C clincher - 220g (claimed) with Vittoria Lite 25-32c tube - 110g = 330g per wheel
Vittoria Corsa CX 700x25C tubular - 255g (claimed)
a difference of 75g per wheel or 150g total. Meaning 280g total weight savings to ride tubulars or around 2/3rds of a pound. At the rim, which is where weight savings is the most noticeable. This translates to quicker acceleration and less energy needed to keep the wheels rotating
Dumb question for people who ride tubular- I see recommendations for carrying a spare pre-glued tire. As someone that has never dealt with these before, how can a tire with dried glue stick to the rim when you're replacing the flatted tire? Do you also carry a small tube of fresh glue? How long does it take to set while on the road?
just my input and feelings as a relatively new (last 6 months) tubular user.
Note, in the 6 months and 850 miles of riding tubulars I've had 0 issues. I'd say 75% of that is ridden in groups, and during that time frame, multiple group members have gotten flats riding the exact same routes (and sometimes lines) as me.
I've hit several potholes at the same speeds (and same general weights) as group members and not had a problem, while they flatted.
your experience (if you should so endeavor) may be different, but mine has been highly enjoyable.
08-20-15, 09:42 AM
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
Exceptionally easy. How could you get it wrong? The Tufo tape has a silicone, non-stick over-tape on it sits between the glue tape and the tire. You don't remove it until the tire is perfectly centered. Then you slip the over-tape out from between the tire and the glue tape. It is so "slick" (pun), that it is crazy easy. Pulling the tire off when you have to can be a chore. They sell a CF-rim cleaner to remove residue before changing to a new tire. And a hair dryer to soften the residue is also helpful.
08-20-15, 09:46 AM
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
The spare tubular is really only a solution of last resort in case of a slashed tire. The modern approach to small punctures is similar to tubeless clinchers, inject on the road a can of Vittoria Pit Stop. Reports are that it really works. You usually have to top it off with a little pumped air or CO2.
08-20-15, 09:47 AM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
I've recently made the swap to riding carbon tubulars. The ride comparison to clinchers just isn't fair. It's simply sublime. In fact, the first time I rode, I could have sworn and stopped to check if I flatted at least four times because of the increased road damping over clinchers. Basically put, because of the lack of the rigid hook and bead portion of the sidewall, the tires have a better ability to absorb road bumps, thus smoother ride.
If you're going to make a perfectly fair comparison, one would have to compare direct equivalents.
Using everyone else's Enve example:
SES 3.4 clincher w/DT240 Shimano hub - 1450.6g
SES 3.4 tubular w/DT240 Shimano hub - 1320.6g
a difference of 130g.
Vittoria Open Corsa CX 700x25C clincher - 220g (claimed) with Vittoria Lite 25-32c tube - 110g = 330g per wheel
Vittoria Corsa CX 700x25C tubular - 255g (claimed)
a difference of 75g per wheel or 150g total. Meaning 280g total weight savings to ride tubulars or around 2/3rds of a pound. At the rim, which is where weight savings is the most noticeable. This translates to quicker acceleration and less energy needed to keep the wheels rotating
This. I carry a spare pre-glued tire, mini pump, CO2 and two levers in my center rear pocket. It doesn't take up much more space than a tube, patch kit, mini pump, CO2 and two levers. seriously. My tubular spare kit (with an admittedly large, cheap Vittoria Rally tubular) is the same size as the seat bag for my clincher wheels. the only difference: one gets attached to my seat, the other goes in an otherwise unused pocket in my jersey. I could get a tubular specific bag... but I'm cheap, and sticking it in my pocket is free.
Tubular glue is a solvent based type of contact cement. Unlike normal glues which require that the glue be in a liquid state when bonding two items, contact cements work almost as well (if not better) when the glue is applied to two surfaces and allowed to dry then pressed together under force. It does admittedly work better when a layer is applied to each surface and a 3rd wet layer is used to form the final bond, but even dry, it works pretty well. As others have said... well enough to get you home, but not so great you're going to rail every corner at the limits. No different than booting a clincher tire (except you don't have to worry about the tire itself falling apart, just the same separation from rim that you do with a booted clincher)
just my input and feelings as a relatively new (last 6 months) tubular user.
Note, in the 6 months and 850 miles of riding tubulars I've had 0 issues. I'd say 75% of that is ridden in groups, and during that time frame, multiple group members have gotten flats riding the exact same routes (and sometimes lines) as me.
I've hit several potholes at the same speeds (and same general weights) as group members and not had a problem, while they flatted.
your experience (if you should so endeavor) may be different, but mine has been highly enjoyable.
If you're going to make a perfectly fair comparison, one would have to compare direct equivalents.
Using everyone else's Enve example:
SES 3.4 clincher w/DT240 Shimano hub - 1450.6g
SES 3.4 tubular w/DT240 Shimano hub - 1320.6g
a difference of 130g.
Vittoria Open Corsa CX 700x25C clincher - 220g (claimed) with Vittoria Lite 25-32c tube - 110g = 330g per wheel
Vittoria Corsa CX 700x25C tubular - 255g (claimed)
a difference of 75g per wheel or 150g total. Meaning 280g total weight savings to ride tubulars or around 2/3rds of a pound. At the rim, which is where weight savings is the most noticeable. This translates to quicker acceleration and less energy needed to keep the wheels rotating
This. I carry a spare pre-glued tire, mini pump, CO2 and two levers in my center rear pocket. It doesn't take up much more space than a tube, patch kit, mini pump, CO2 and two levers. seriously. My tubular spare kit (with an admittedly large, cheap Vittoria Rally tubular) is the same size as the seat bag for my clincher wheels. the only difference: one gets attached to my seat, the other goes in an otherwise unused pocket in my jersey. I could get a tubular specific bag... but I'm cheap, and sticking it in my pocket is free.
Tubular glue is a solvent based type of contact cement. Unlike normal glues which require that the glue be in a liquid state when bonding two items, contact cements work almost as well (if not better) when the glue is applied to two surfaces and allowed to dry then pressed together under force. It does admittedly work better when a layer is applied to each surface and a 3rd wet layer is used to form the final bond, but even dry, it works pretty well. As others have said... well enough to get you home, but not so great you're going to rail every corner at the limits. No different than booting a clincher tire (except you don't have to worry about the tire itself falling apart, just the same separation from rim that you do with a booted clincher)
just my input and feelings as a relatively new (last 6 months) tubular user.
Note, in the 6 months and 850 miles of riding tubulars I've had 0 issues. I'd say 75% of that is ridden in groups, and during that time frame, multiple group members have gotten flats riding the exact same routes (and sometimes lines) as me.
I've hit several potholes at the same speeds (and same general weights) as group members and not had a problem, while they flatted.
your experience (if you should so endeavor) may be different, but mine has been highly enjoyable.
08-20-15, 10:07 AM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 92
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
08-20-15, 10:13 AM
#61
Serious Cyclist
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: RVA
Posts: 9,308
Bikes: Emonda SL6
Mentioned: 97 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5721 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times
in
99 Posts
Tubular glue is a solvent based type of contact cement. Unlike normal glues which require that the glue be in a liquid state when bonding two items, contact cements work almost as well (if not better) when the glue is applied to two surfaces and allowed to dry then pressed together under force. It does admittedly work better when a layer is applied to each surface and a 3rd wet layer is used to form the final bond, but even dry, it works pretty well. As others have said... well enough to get you home, but not so great you're going to rail every corner at the limits. No different than booting a clincher tire (except you don't have to worry about the tire itself falling apart, just the same separation from rim that you do with a booted clincher)
08-20-15, 10:36 AM
#62
Senior Member
I've put in 200 rides this year on light tubular tires. No flats. My best guess is that I've have 10 or more punctures in that time, but 20 grams of Stan's sealant inside the tires fixed these little holes without me even noticing it. You inject this liquid latex in through the valve core.
On tubulars you do not get pinch flats. You do not get rim strip failures. You save at least 150 grams per wheel - at the rim, where it most counts. And there are the clear tubular safety benefits in the event of a fast blowout.
For these reasons are there pros riding clinchers in race situations? No.
Back to the original question: good modern tubular rims. All rims (clincher and tubular) have been getting porkier in the last few decades. This is because low spoke count wheels require more rim strength between the spoke gaps. And rear wheels with 8 and more cogs have a lot more dish. So these rims have to be built with more lateral strength as well.
So this is why I ride vintage rims in 32 and 36 spokes. The old wheels are overall lighter, especially rotating mass. Perhaps try and find some old GP4s. Or Ambrosios. They are build on the heavier side, and will be able to handle the dish requirements of modern 8+ speed wheels. Or go carbon in a 38-50mm profile.
On tubulars you do not get pinch flats. You do not get rim strip failures. You save at least 150 grams per wheel - at the rim, where it most counts. And there are the clear tubular safety benefits in the event of a fast blowout.
For these reasons are there pros riding clinchers in race situations? No.
Back to the original question: good modern tubular rims. All rims (clincher and tubular) have been getting porkier in the last few decades. This is because low spoke count wheels require more rim strength between the spoke gaps. And rear wheels with 8 and more cogs have a lot more dish. So these rims have to be built with more lateral strength as well.
So this is why I ride vintage rims in 32 and 36 spokes. The old wheels are overall lighter, especially rotating mass. Perhaps try and find some old GP4s. Or Ambrosios. They are build on the heavier side, and will be able to handle the dish requirements of modern 8+ speed wheels. Or go carbon in a 38-50mm profile.
08-20-15, 10:46 AM
#63
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,172
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1560 Post(s)
Liked 1,282 Times
in
853 Posts
It's going to get interesting when we have braking-delayed carbon rim riders in a pack of riders rocking either disc brakes or good calipers grabbing fast-acting aluminum rims.
I've been rear-ended by a rider who used carbon rims, and this was just with a very routine slow-down for a tight, downhill corner.
The ultra-competitive among us are allowed take their chances using carbon rim braking surfaces, I try to stay away from them. Really, it should be a rule, alloy rim braking surfaces or no race/ride entry for you.
Disc brakes will bring similar problems, almost like it is trying to obsolete all previous bikes, and it probably is. Even when all riders are using discs, rider's reaction times will definitely be challenged. But in wet weather it is perhaps a good thing assuming everyone is using comparable equipment. I try not to ride in the rain myself.
I've been rear-ended by a rider who used carbon rims, and this was just with a very routine slow-down for a tight, downhill corner.
The ultra-competitive among us are allowed take their chances using carbon rim braking surfaces, I try to stay away from them. Really, it should be a rule, alloy rim braking surfaces or no race/ride entry for you.
Disc brakes will bring similar problems, almost like it is trying to obsolete all previous bikes, and it probably is. Even when all riders are using discs, rider's reaction times will definitely be challenged. But in wet weather it is perhaps a good thing assuming everyone is using comparable equipment. I try not to ride in the rain myself.
08-20-15, 10:52 AM
#64
Banned
might be better to spend less on each, you can swing a second set of extra wheels since gluing tires takes time
and since tubular tire punctures need a sewing day , get a dozen , then devote a day for patching the batch .
at least CX you do laps by the pits where the extra bike or wheels are.
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-20-15 at 11:01 AM.
08-20-15, 10:57 AM
#65
Vain, But Lacking Talent
Really? You don't think carrying around a whole damn spare tire isn't inconvenient? You're comparing carrying around a $100+ spare tire to carrying around a $2 spare tube 
And "putting a dollar bill in there" is only if you slice it big. If you get a puncture, you just swap the tube. You can't do that with a tubular. The dollar bill is only for big slices.
You clearly don't know how many grams are in a pound if you think 200-300 is "closer to a pound". 200 is less than half a pound, so it's actually closer to zero pounds than it is to 1 pound. 300 is still a ways off from a full pound. It needs to be more than 50% heavier to be a full pound. Do you have a girlfriend/wife? If she was 120lbs that would be like saying she's "closer to 200lbs". Very, very misleading.
And "putting a dollar bill in there" is only if you slice it big. If you get a puncture, you just swap the tube. You can't do that with a tubular. The dollar bill is only for big slices.
You clearly don't know how many grams are in a pound if you think 200-300 is "closer to a pound". 200 is less than half a pound, so it's actually closer to zero pounds than it is to 1 pound. 300 is still a ways off from a full pound. It needs to be more than 50% heavier to be a full pound. Do you have a girlfriend/wife? If she was 120lbs that would be like saying she's "closer to 200lbs". Very, very misleading.
Additionally, the ride quality is significantly better on a tubular vs. a tubed clincher. Enough to make something like carrying a spare tubular pretty negligible. Ride quality and road feel can not be measured in grams.
Tubeless closes the ride quality gap a good bit, with the added convenience of being able to throw a tube in on the side of the road if needed, but there is a major reason racers still race on tubulars and are not going to tubeless. The geometry of the rim profile plays a big role. There was a whole thread about it a while back.
08-20-15, 12:11 PM
#67
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,297
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Loose ass tire, what could possibly go wrong? Heaven forbid you use a little extra b-tension to run a bigger cassette though!
08-20-15, 12:14 PM
#68
cowboy, steel horse, etc
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,777
Bikes: everywhere
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12735 Post(s)
Liked 7,635 Times
in
4,050 Posts
08-20-15, 12:14 PM
#69
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
There are easier ways to troll.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
08-20-15, 12:22 PM
#70
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,297
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You're clearly much more new to cycling than you let on. I'm a relative newbie, but even I know that tubular tires were once THE way, and anyone who knows what they are doing can put on a new pre-glued tubular in about the same time as you can change a flat on a clincher.
Additionally, the ride quality is significantly better on a tubular vs. a tubed clincher. Enough to make something like carrying a spare tubular pretty negligible. Ride quality and road feel can not be measured in grams.
Tubeless closes the ride quality gap a good bit, with the added convenience of being able to throw a tube in on the side of the road if needed, but there is a major reason racers still race on tubulars and are not going to tubeless. The geometry of the rim profile plays a big role. There was a whole thread about it a while back.
Additionally, the ride quality is significantly better on a tubular vs. a tubed clincher. Enough to make something like carrying a spare tubular pretty negligible. Ride quality and road feel can not be measured in grams.
Tubeless closes the ride quality gap a good bit, with the added convenience of being able to throw a tube in on the side of the road if needed, but there is a major reason racers still race on tubulars and are not going to tubeless. The geometry of the rim profile plays a big role. There was a whole thread about it a while back.
Did you really just say that something is good now because it used to be good many years ago? You know what else used to be good? VHS and cassette tapes.
08-20-15, 12:26 PM
#71
cowboy, steel horse, etc
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,777
Bikes: everywhere
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12735 Post(s)
Liked 7,635 Times
in
4,050 Posts
08-20-15, 12:30 PM
#72
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,297
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
08-20-15, 12:33 PM
#73
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,297
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Not trolling... I'm literally shocked that someone thinks running extra b-tension to run a bigger cassette is more dangerous than riding on a partially secure tire.
There are companies out there that sell larger cassette cogs and tell you how to adjust your b-tension or even give you a longer b-tension screw in order to make it work. Pretty sure they'd be sued into oblivion if that was so dangerous.
I won't even ride a clincher with a tube that has a slow leak or re-use/patch tubes. SCREW riding partially attached tubulars.
There are companies out there that sell larger cassette cogs and tell you how to adjust your b-tension or even give you a longer b-tension screw in order to make it work. Pretty sure they'd be sued into oblivion if that was so dangerous.
I won't even ride a clincher with a tube that has a slow leak or re-use/patch tubes. SCREW riding partially attached tubulars.
08-20-15, 12:49 PM
#74
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,297
Bikes: Too many.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 92 Post(s)
Liked 174 Times
in
86 Posts
Once upon a time, there were two consumer cassette formats, VHS and beta. VHS won the consumer format wars, even though beta was probably the better format technically. Beta lived on in the pro world long after its demise in the consumer world.
__________________
08-20-15, 12:50 PM
#75
Vain, But Lacking Talent
Well, actually I'm 32.
All forms of tires have their place, and generally speaking I agree that modern clinchers are the easiest for the average enthusiast and offer plenty of performance. But if tubulars were an irrelevant technology, they would have gone away with downtube shifters. But yet they haven't...
Aside from that, you're generally a waste of space and not worth engaging. Not sure why anyone tries talking to you. It would have been in my best interest to not have posted in the first place.
Though I'd pay lots of money to see you and sam_cyclist in a cage match. Let me know when you guys get that together.
